Anyone know about dropping a 466 in a 560 or?

[milkman]

Looking at dropping a 466 in something lighter to go pulling with whether a 560 or 666. Any feedback welcome, but would also like to fit in a class. I know they are all different but would like to here ideas.:evil

[Farmallgray]

Depending on how much HP you are going to make that rear may not hold up too well. There is a guy around here that ran a 466 in a 686 and was always having rearend trouble.
He determined it would be better to lighten a 7, 9, or 1066. That is what most guys are running in this area.

[Ackerdiesel]

560 doesn't have very stout rearend but if ya have a deep enough back pocket then get everything billet or forged and cyro'd. It may hold up well then.

[milkman]

I know the rear ends aren't the strongest but I was looking for something different but light. I have heard that it has been done but I didn't know how much needed to be done. Any more input would be appreciated. I was raised on a 1066 and love them but I was looking for something that fits my trailer and garage. :evil

[brad deckard]

what weight class are you trying to get to, what are rules, i can tell you what is needed to put in either 6-- rear or 560 rear.

i am going to attach videos of mine and my dads tractors. mine has a 3 charger 400 series in front of 686 rear and dads is 2 charger 358 in a 560

http://www.youtube.com/user/braddeckard?feature=mhum#p/a/u/0/zJcdF0o79lQ
http://www.youtube.com/user/braddeckard?feature=mhum#p/a/u/1/o6a-uiu5Hss

[nborga87]

those are real good running tractors! i like those old 560s especially ones that scream like that!

[milkman]

Those are some bada-- machines. What type of class are you pulling in and what are the weights of you tractors light and what weight class are you running these in? I am waiting to see if they are going to start a class for non-antique modifieds, but I still have interest in building a small power house even if I have to go to Ohio to do it ( I am just inside PA)

[brad deckard]

the videos are of 7000lb super stock. we are detuning the 560 and putting it back into 5500 and 6000lb hot farm. the 210 (686 rear) weighs a little over 6000 lbs with driver but could be lighter if need be.

[milkman]

I want to just start out in a farm stock class with a 6000lb diesel tractor but ofcourse it has to run pretty dang good to keep up with any stockers around here, and then gradually build it up. The chatter is that sometime in the near future we will have a class for modified diesels in the lighter weight classes. Right now there is only a 9300 hot farm and then you get into lim pro and super farm, my pockets aren't quite that deep

[toolz]

Putting a 400 series in my 560 right now. If you want to do it economically, it can be done with stock parts. The rear plate bolt pattern is the same as the later tractors, all the way through the 86 series, so you can use the factory rear plate to bolt it to the 560 clutch housing. '06-'56 series frame rails are almost 3" longer, and should be enough for a row crop tractor. Mine's a wheatland, so the front bolster hangs back under the engine for the setback front axle- had to stretch the wheelbase about 6". Easiest would be to use 66 series frame rails, but it won't look stock, and the front bolster won't fit as well. My motor is N/A, so not too worried about rearend strength. I've been told the front of the fuel tank has to be removed to clear the valve cover, but that's not true. I bolted things together last night, and the valve cover even clears the heat shield under the tank, but not by much. Tank will have to be removed to adjust the valves. The stock tractor front plate can be used, but if you're using 560 or '06-'56 series rails, the mounting ears will have to be narrowed about an inch per side, and the bottom inch or so of the ears will have to be cut off to fit in the rails. Only the top mount bolt can be used (one bolt per side). That gets things bolted up, but the flywheel issues have to be addressed. If you need steel, just order a custom flywheel ($$). The factory 400 series tractor flywheel can be used, but it has to be machined to fit the 560 ring gear, and spaced back 7/8" with a spacer between the crank and flywheel. I got my spacer from Floyd Isbell in PA (Isbell custom tractor parts). That gets ring gear mated with the starter. I've been told that the stock 560 flywheel can be re-drilled to fit, but don't know the details. Now for the problem: As I was bolting things together last night, rotating the engine to make the clutch splines line up, I noticed the clutch shaft was not engaged with the clutch disk, and was only 1/2" from being pulled together. It seems the disk/pressure plate is sunk too far into the flywheel to properly engage the clutch shaft and pto drive splines. I just spent $325 in machine work on this flywheel, so I hope I can solve this. Possibly a longer clutch shaft. This is not an uncommon swap, so I'm not sure what went wrong. I used the flywheel that came on my 414, out of a 966. I also have a combine 414 flywheel, but it's thinner, and would require a thicker spacer, but it appears it would put the clutch in the proper place after machining. I'll know more today- gonna bolt the engine to the clutch housing without the clutch, and see where the clutch shaft is positioned relative to the flywheel. I'll post with the results. By the way, I used a 986 clutch, same dimensions as 560, but supposed to have stronger springs, since a 986 has a hydraulic assisted clutch.

[toolz]

Talked to a few people today, and my choices are a longer input shaft, or space the flywheel farther back. I need another 3/4". I think I will have a new spacer made for the flywheel (1 5/8" thick) and re-machine the flywheel to sink the ring gear another 3/4". That will allow me to keep the rest of the tractor (trans and T/A) stock, in case I want to make it stock again someday. Not crazy about a spacer that thick, but I'll use grade 9 bolts and locktite, and hope for the best.