clutch issues

[BPhips5]

i recently purchased the ceramic 650/1100 13 inch clutch for my 98 dodge. I also got the upgraded hydraulics. everything went smoothly. how ever i returned the truck back to stock and have 412 miles on the clutch.I went through everything i was supposed to do to it with proper break in strategies and everything. however with the truck completely stock in 5th gear the clutch starts to slip around 2100 rpms when you roll into the throttle. i know this should not happen so is there something i can do to fix this or does it sound like a faulty clutch.

thanks Ben

[cumminstroked]

One thing you could check... If you take your slave cylinder from the trans reach in through the hole you should be able to move your clutch fork about 1/4" in and out without applying pressure to the finger bars on the pressure plate. If everything is too tight and the fork and throw out bearing is pressing on the finger bars then it could create a slipping issue. I would start there anyways

[BPhips5]

thats exactly the problem took the slave out and there in absolutely 0 play its as tight as can be. how do i go about solving this problem

[jedeka]

I don't know about Valair, but when I put in a South Bend double disc, they have a modified clutch fork that allows the fork to come back further. Some clutch kits require that a spacer washer be taken out underneath the clutch arm pivot ball.

[cumminstroked]

I would look for a modified clutch fork that is meant for that clutch. If valair doesn't sell them you could talk to someone at South Bend or Kenny's pulling parts. I know both of those companies sell them.

[full pull]

Is this a dual disc clutch? All of our dual disc clutches come with a modified fork. It must be used along with removing the pivot ball washer. Also included is a TIPS sheet that has 12 things to check Before, During, and After installation. One of the items noted on that list is "check free travel of fork, if there is no free travel STOP something is wrong"

Another thing to note is a 650hp clutch is not meant to be used in a stock truck, it will not last very long. Under powering a clutch is just as bad if not worse than over powering a clutch.

[BPhips5]

this is not a dual disc this is a single. originally this clutch would not disengage so a guy at the local shop said to spin the fork 180 degrees once thats was done it was disengage now i have no free play. the paper i got with my clutch told me to turn the down to lowest power and give it a little more as the clutch breaks in. so what do you mean by under powering the clutch i dont plan on keeping the truck with this low fuel once i get this all figured out. Now my friend bought one of these at the same time for his 96 and it went right in no issue and his is fine so whats the difference between the trucks causing my problems?

[duck_04]

how can you under power a clutch?

[Valair1]

the fork doesnt go 2 different ways, it must be properly installed, does the fork move left to right at all?

also underpowering a clutch is usually bad, if you dont have enough power to let out on it and go, so you have to slip it to take off. The clutch you have is pretty much a no slip clutch, forcing it to slip will destroy it.

[kalder]

Is this a dual disc clutch? All of our dual disc clutches come with a modified fork. It must be used along with removing the pivot ball washer.

Allways? I got a nodular dual disk (650hp?) a couple of years ago, and I didn't get one.

Not trying to sound pissy or anything, just curious.

[Valair1]

Kevin, now days all of our dual disc come with a fork. The sprung hub design required it.

[kalder]

Kevin, now days all of our dual disc come with a fork. The sprung hub design required it.

Cool! Thanks, Dan.

[BPhips5]

the fork has no movement. it had some in and out like 1/2 inch the other way but it wouldnt disengage the clutch with the upgraded hydros. the truck is just sitting til i get this figured out so what is my issue and what should be my next step in solving my problems.

[smoke machine]

call them. the problem will get solved alot faster and easier.

[Red_Rattler]

^this.... Pretty sure they have technical assistance for a reason.

[Valair1]

main tech guys are on this thread, lol I think you should have more than a 1/2 inch in and out with a new clutch. Do you know which way the fork went, the numbers and or I stamp on the pivot ball side. You do not have any side to side movement, correct? The flywheel was new? if not was it resurfaced? your truck is a 98 not a 98.5?, they used different rod lengths in the master cylinder. Also is this the first time you have excellerated on it? Is there a possiblility that the disc is backwards? You can make a tool to check the release on the clutch, let me see if I can find a picture of it and I will post it up.

[Valair1]

Also when a clutch is new the diaphram and or fingers of the clutch pull in further towards the engine, did you check the pivot ball for wear, as a clutch wears the fingers will rise and the clutch will then release quicker. With a new clutch the slave to have to stroke further. I can help you with finding out why it doesnt work, I think lol

[BPhips5]

the truck is a 98 12 valve. i know exactly how the fork went. the fly wheel is new came with the clutch and there is 0 side to side movement. the disc is not backwards its been checked twice. i have the upgraded hydros with the adjustable rod. so the stroke shouldn't be the issue

[Valair1]

[QUOTE=BPhips5;1523281]this is not a dual disc this is a single. originally this clutch would not disengage so a guy at the local shop said to spin the fork 180 degrees once thats was done it was disengage now i have no free play.

this is why I questioned the fork, if you dont want to pull it, make at plate that bolts where the slave goes, cut a hole in the center, weld a nut and get a long piece of all thread, run the slack out of the fork, extend it 1 inch and check and see if you can shift gears.

[BPhips5]

sorry didnt mean to sound like as a$$. this project it on hold its all torn apart should be going back together saturday so ill let you know from there if i have any issues and what not

[Valair1]

if you have any questions call me on my cell 940859onefourninesix

[BPhips5]

ok so i got the whole truck back together. fork is in properly. the lettering towards the anchor ball. the fork has like 1/16 inch of in and out play. absolutely no side to side play. however the clutch will not disengage. i believe the throw out bearing in jamming on the shaft or something along those lines. if thats the case what so i do cause the throw out bearing only goes in one way in order to line up with the input shaft.

[Valair1]

That's not near enough play, and also I would think that it would cause it to be eaiser to release. You should have about 1 inch or so of travel. How did the clutch look when you had it out? has this truck ever had a dual disc? We need to make a tool to check it, can you make a plate that bolt where the slave goes, weld a nut in the center and get a piece of all thread? if not I will make you one, If you would have called me when you had it out, I would have been more than happy to go over a few things, like checking the disc flatness, pivot ball for wear,and a couple other things. also what happend to your old clutch, the reason you replaced it? I"m here to help you.

[BPhips5]

i tried to call you this afternoon but you didnt answer and i didnt know what to leave on a message. this truck has never had a dual disc. it was bone stock when i got it. truck only has 84kmiles on it. the pivot ball has no wear at all. the clutch was replaced cause i put a #100 plate in the truck and she slipped the crap outa her to the point the truck wouldnt move in 5th gear.

[Valair1]

ok try to call me aganin today, we can discuss it.