PDA

View Full Version : Dual Disc Guru's


house
07-09-2007, 10:38 PM
i have been having issues with my clutch, most of the time when pedal is pressed in it will half way dissengage then the last few CM's is when it finnaly full is dissengaged , then some times its trying squeal when fully pushed in. then once in a while the pedal kinda sticks to floor for a few seconds then pops up with more rpm or a flip of the pedal with my foot.. It does have a new master and slave on it too. they been on for a month. Any ideas? Its kinda hard to pull a 24ft pontoon with it messing up.

CPMac
07-10-2007, 10:07 AM
Probably one of 3 things. Cracked pressure plate (but only if it's a diaphram), warped floater, or simply needs adjusting. Any way I bet you'll have to take it out.

house
07-10-2007, 03:35 PM
Its a comp puller, weighted lever type 4hooks on it and 6,000 miles

DoIt
07-10-2007, 05:16 PM
It sounds like the presure plate levers are going down past their pivot point and geting stuck or one of the lever pins is broke . Or the floater plate is warped causing the levers to be to low. Adjusting the levers back to the proper level will help. Ether way unless you cut a hole in the bell housing its gota come out.

house
07-10-2007, 05:58 PM
also since the clutch was installed my truck has severly hopped alot, never hopped at all with a diphram clutch

JW3
07-11-2007, 12:30 AM
House,
Is the Haisley Comp in the Ford different from the Dodge DD?

DoIt
07-11-2007, 08:17 AM
What makes a clutch hopp or jerky is caused by what the disks are made of & if the disks are riggid or sprung . Also the lever style presure plate should have a much heavier plate load.

house
07-11-2007, 01:09 PM
House,
Is the Haisley Comp in the Ford different from the Dodge DD?

I dont think so, other then on the ford one of the discs is slighty smaller then the other, and the fact you gota cut a chunk out of the bellhousiong and counter sink the throw out bearing bolts.

CPMac
07-11-2007, 10:08 PM
You don't adjust the fingers on a comp puller only the static pressure. If the floater is warped it will have to be replaced or resurfaced if it isn't very bad but no amount of adjusting will work. Are the two discs the same compound? if they aren't it will warp the floater very fast. If it has wanted to hop since you put in the comp I suggest you remove some weights. My duramax would hop with that setup until I upped the static pressure and removed most of the weight. I assume you mean it hops while taking off? Sprung hub or solid hub makes no difference on hop only how agressive the disc material is. The comp or lever pressure plate uses a lower static pressure than the diaphram pressure plate and aggressive disc with centrifugal weights. It depends on what static your pp was set at but if you have 14 weights I would probably remove half of them but you really need to know what static is first.

house
07-12-2007, 12:36 AM
its a standard Comp Puller, i do think they used lighter weights on mine then they normaly do since i drive mine alot

DUAL DISC COMPETITION DESIGN S.F.I. SPEC 1.2 CERTIFIED
Billet steel flywheel, (not cast steel) wITH BRONZE inlay -FOR BETTER CO-EFFICIENCY OF HEAT
(2) Sintered iron discs wITH 16 rivets, heat treated, hardened steel hub
B&B PRESSURE PLATE - 3000# STATIC PRESSURE, (3) FINGERS W/14 COUNTERWEIGHTS EA, BRONZE HEAT SHIELD
.400 FIXED FLOATER PLATE

here is a video of a pull of mine, the take off on all the pulls since comp puller have been the same all pogos! http://video.competitiondiesel.com/video/58cd0adc-ab34-4837-af83-995d018913d8.htm

CPMac
07-13-2007, 09:49 AM
If it's 3000 static I would take all the weight off but it would be safer to do it slowly.