2008 6.7 Cummins Engine Knock

[Big Blue24]

Help me identify what's causing this engine to knock. It's a bone stock 2008 6.7 3500 dually 4x4 with 109,000 miles. It was used to plow snow by the previous owner.

Believe it or not, the knock will come and go away at times. No visible smoke from the tail pipe. No excessive blowby out the oil filler cap when running. The coolant is brown, I assume that's the new non-green coolant they fill these things with. The oil does not appear milky like it has coolant mixing, however, it does appear to have abnormal sludge build-up. Does the new coolant not leave a milkshake when it mixes with engine oil?

Check engine light is on, key dance will not pull up codes. The owner took it to a diesel specific repair shop and they said the code came up as a fault in the EGR system / O2 sensor. They wanted to dismantle the motor on the spot and luckily he walked away.

So what is it?

Dropped valve? Blown Gasket? Bent Rod? Spun Bearing? Piston Slap? Clogged piston jet and resultant melted piston?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBKEKuk5xgo

[Freezingsystems]

Just throwing this out there simple thing to check maybe a loose crank dampener.

[Freezingsystems]

Sorry should have listen to the video that dont sound good. LOL.

[JAWilson]

Id start by pulling the valve cover off and checking valve lash and push rods. Then I would start looking for a small chinese man hiding inside your engine with a hammer.

[DaveMatthews]

MAKE IT STOP!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Geez I was actually thinking a rod was gonna come through the computer screen and smack me in the face....

Why isn't that thing deleted 1st...

I'd check your top half first as mentioned.

[DRT086.7]

Id be willing to bet money that it is the #6 rod bearing

[blos101]

Oh god. Before I listened to it I was thinking maybe injector knock but damn.......

[Gwoody]

Check flywheel, flexplate, torque convertor bolts.

[Big Blue24]

Update, the owner told me that the diesel repair shop that looked at it last week said they manually disconnected the wiring harness to each injector and it didn't change the sound. They used this to determine that it wasn't a bum injector or a melted piston making noise from weird combustion.

I think I'll help them look over the valvetrain and if nothing turns up "it shouldn't since a trained diesel tech was under there disconnecting injectors" we'll look at the flex plate bolts.

The knock is much louder on the exhaust side of the motor.

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Have an oil analysis done. Or in the meantime cut the oil filter apart and check that out.

That does not sound good at all.


Sent from my iPhone during class

[Joesixpack]

Sounds like the big end of a rod double tapping when you rev it up. Frequency seems to quick to be in the valve train.

Did you throw your head under it for a listen?

[Drasko]

Im putting money on a valve seat. Just did an 03 with the EXACT same sound. Pull the head before you do what my buddy did and let it run so the chunks of the seat crack the cylinder wall!!!!

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Find a doctors old stethoscope and try to listen to the bottom of the pan. We have one that has a metal tube on it that is a little more geared towards mechanics but a regular one will work.


Sent from my iPhone during class

[RJM06590]

It's a video, but it doesn't sound deep like typical bottom end issues. The knocks I've heard that were rod related had a distinct deeper tone/hit.

[burnin oil]

Check flywheel, flexplate, torque convertor bolts.


This has my vote. Sounds almost hollow compared to a rod knock. Every bad rod I have been around was a knocking sound and didn't echo. Never dropped a valve seat though.

[cummin get it]

Tc bolts is my vote. Does it do it in reverse but at a stop? How about drive at a stop? 1st? 2end? I think something with tc or flex plate imo

[08 mega man]

If it does it more/less in other gears I would lean towards tc/flexplate. Something of that nature!!!

[DLV8]

so...... what was it?????

[Crysis]

Ouch, that sounds horrible!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[01silver bullet]

It sounds too slow to be in the valve train, the knocks would be a lot faster, it sounds a little tingy or echoey though, I would lean more towards bottom end though, compression test would be next on my list,

[LReiff]

In my opinion firing the motor again without first determining the souce of the noise is foolishness. An oil sample will tell what wear metals are present. A bore scope in the injector holes will reveal valve/piston issues. Inspecting the flex plate through the starter and inspection holes should give one a good idea of whether there is a problem back there.

[cummin get it]

In my opinion firing the motor again without first determining the souce of the noise is foolishness. An oil sample will tell what wear metals are present. A bore scope in the injector holes will reveal valve/piston issues. Inspecting the flex plate through the starter and inspection holes should give one a good idea of whether there is a problem back there.

^ this

[zstroken]

I had the crank bolts loose on my puller. At idle it sounded terrible, rev it to about 2000 and the sound went away. Have also seen the bellhousing adapter bolts come loose and cause a sound that sounded terrible.

[Joesixpack]

Ive seen a piece of piston crown break off and get mashed between good crown and the head that was a tough one. No other symptoms except the racket.

[Big Blue24]

Lots of opinions on this one for sure. I'm going to take a close look at it this weekend and see if I can help them troubleshoot it.

[mathews8pt]

Another vote for flexplate or something in that area.

Had a 12v that ripped the lugs off the convertor, talk about a nasty sound!!

[Deputydog]

Yep, flex plate or loose TQ converter bolts *bdh*

[Drasko]

Im still going with valve seat. The one i did sounded EXACTLY the same. Like Rieff said, look everywhere you can without starting it again.

[DRT086.7]

I think its the #6 rod bearing cause I built to motors last year because of the same sound. The trucks were low on oil and the #6 rod id the last one to get oiled.

[Itr.#1446]

My ford with 351 broke the flex plate and it had a very similiar sound like that can you be more specific on where the sound comes from? Bellhousing, bottom end, or top end?

[Drasko]

So whats the outcome blue?

[pac_master_7]

My vote is going with the valve train. Not sure what exactly on the valve train but it's gonna be there IMO. It sounds like it's coming from the top half of the engine. But who really can say what it is til it's been torn apart and checked? I know I can't.

[kengarr12]

Has this engine been torn down yet,,.I have the same problem and trying to figure it out,
would like to hear what you found. When I say the same problem I mean I could have made that video, I have exactly the same sound.

[SGCCummins]

Sounds a lot like my cracked flex plate did...


Sent from my iPhone

[GOT-Torque]

I bet it's a bad ground.

[duck_04]

I bet it's a bad ground.
this

[Big Blue24]

I'm scheduled to go help diagnose the problem tomorrow night. The mechanic is backing away from it so I can do a little "shade tree" diagnosis.

I've never worked on anything newer than a 2001, so this is new to me.


I did speak to the mechanic for a good 30 minutes and he swears up and down that with his stethoscope, the sound is definitely coming from #1 or #2 cylinder and that the frequency is perfectly matching one of the valves. He also said he checked the flex plate and it's not the problem.

I've got an hour tomorrow to figure out the problem what should I check?

[Freezingsystems]

When in doubt rev it out. LOL.

[Big Blue24]

I bet it's a bad ground.

this

Where does the bad ground usually show up on these newer trucks? Injector harness, side of the block, at the battery?

[Drasko]

i would feel the valve bridges as its running if you start it although i dont advise this. it sounds like a seat and the only good way is with the head off

[LReiff]

One word. Borescope. Pull the injectors and have a look around.

[pac_master_7]

One word. Borescope. Pull the injectors and have a look around.

This is true. Or if a borescope is unavailable then your next best way is to pull the head. Or spend the money on a borescope.


---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?mqnv4u

[Big Blue24]

Using a stethoscope, the knock is definitely coming from cylinder #1 or #2.

When the motor is cold, the knock is almost undetectable. After running for about 2 min, the knock gets louder.

If you rev it to 1500 rpm and then dump the throttle, it will almost die and catch itself around 500 rpm where the knock ceases momentarily for 1/4 of a second, then it comes back.

I checked the flex plate bolts and they are tight and the flexplate looks just fine.


I pulled injector #1 and #2 and bore-scoped cylinder #1. The piston looks "too" clean and there are what looks like the circular pattern of a valve impression on the top of the piston. I can actually see the part number on the piston and the area next to the circular impression is shiney like polished aluminum. There was also a little bit of fuel in the bowl on piston #1. Can a hung-open injector cause a knock? Plausible?

It got late before I could really take a good look at cylinder #2, however, just looking in the bowl, it looks to have 10x as much carbon buildup.

The next task is to fully bore-scope cylinder #2, and then pull injector #3 to compare cleanliness/carbon build-up between 1, 2, & 3.


One more funny quark, when you put the truck in gear, it's an automatic, it will pull the motor down and almost die, and then recover. When you bump it into neutral, it will surge up to about 1500 rpm. Bad-fuel injector related????

[Big Blue24]

To give a little more history, we have shut down injectors using the star scan tool and the knock does not go away. I then physically removed the electrical connectors from injector #1 and the knock doesn't go away.

However, in my mind, if the injector is slightly hung open, it will spray regardless of electrical input and therefore could still cause a fuel knock. Does anyone have experience with hung-open common rail injectors, is this possible?

[paulb]

Have you done a compression test, or better yet a leak down test? Is the indentation of the valve from the exhaust valve between #1 and #2 cylinder?

Paul

[LReiff]

To give a little more history, we have shut down injectors using the star scan tool and the knock does not go away. I then physically removed the electrical connectors from injector #1 and the knock doesn't go away.

However, in my mind, if the injector is slightly hung open, it will spray regardless of electrical input and therefore could still cause a fuel knock. Does anyone have experience with hung-open common rail injectors, is this possible?

Yes. The only way to truly eliminate an injector is to remove the line and cap the rail.

[Big Blue24]

Have you done a compression test, or better yet a leak down test? Is the indentation of the valve from the exhaust valve between #1 and #2 cylinder?

Paul

Tonight I plan to pull injector #3, then scope out 1, 2, & 3 to see which piston doesn't look like the others.

Then I'll probably pull the last 3 injectors and send all (6) out to be tested.

In the mean time, I suppose it would be prudent to do a leak down test, I have a hunch that at least one of the injectors is bad but I'd hate to get it fixed, put everything back together, just to find out that there are other problems like a valve seat or a rod bearing.


The valve impression is from the intake valve on cylinder #1, closest to cylinder #2. The impression is faint enough that it could be normal, and not a dropped valve seat, especially since it's the intake valve.

[Ben46a]

The knock is quiet while cold cause the oil is thick enough to cushion the blows of the rod on the bearing journal. THis doesn't not sound like a fuel knock. Have you cut the oil filter open?

[Gibson]

I'd first pull valve cover for visual inspection and the turn engine over for further observation.

[Gibson]

Well youve already done it.

[Big Blue24]

All (6) injectors were pulled last night. They are being sent out for testing this weekend.

The bore scope showed that #1 is really really clean with faint marks that look like a valve impression. #2 has moderate carbon build-up, no marks. #3 is a little cleaner than 2 but dirtier than 1, it has a few small 1/16" long nicks on the top of the piston, looks like foreign debris marks.

We'll do a leak-down test after we hear back on the injectors. If the injectors come back with a clean bill of health, the head is coming off next. If the injectors are bad, we'll leak-down test and then possibly reassemble with the rebuilt injectors.

[Joesixpack]

An injector should have showed signs in the exhaust, that stink from advanced fuel or white smoke/haze.

That sound sure sounds mechanical to me. Tough through a tiny laptop speaker.

[04cummins kevin]

my vote is a bad injector caused to wash the cylinder wall/walls are destroy the rings. this happened to my 04

[Big Blue24]

Looks like we'll have to buy an adapter to do a compression or leakdown test, dang odd-ball 6.7!!!

[Drasko]

Were the valve marks light on the pistons blue?

[Gibson]

Why won't a regular 24v adapter work? I use a 24v adapter on 5.9 CR's. And 5.9 injectors fit in 6.7 and vise versa minus the hold down grinding.

[LReiff]

Why won't a regular 24v adapter work? I use a 24v adapter on 5.9 CR's. And 5.9 injectors fit in 6.7 and vise versa minus the hold down grinding.

Yes. Snap-on EEPV313A 24v adapter works on a 6.7 head.

[Gibson]

Yes. Snap-on EEPV313A 24v adapter works on a 6.7 head.

That's what I figured.

[Big Blue24]

All (6) injectors tested good.

The owner has decided to quit messing around and the head is coming off this week.

[Gibson]

I'm gunna say broken ring. Hope it isn't

[kengarr12]

For what ever its worth mine turned out to be number 6 rod bearing,.,never was low on oil and never ever showed low oil pressure but number 6 is shot,.,,,it sounded exactly the same as yours so my guess is same answer
*bdh*

[mr_hahn73]

I know there is a ton of opinions, I wished I would of made a video of mine. Idk if you even have a rail pressure gauge on your truck but my truck sounded just like that. It sounded like metal on metal actually. I looked at my rail pressure and my truck was idling at 26k RP. I replaced the FCA on the top Duramx cp3 new I mind you(less than 2000 miles). They go bad all the time and seems miles play no part. Hope you find the problem.

[JWhite]

$100 says it isn't the fuel system. If a cooling nozzle went bad, you would most likely have a scuffed cylinder and would notice in the blow-by aspect of things. The "nicks" in the top of #3 piston leads me to believe that a valve / seat has messed up, generally when a valve or seat goes bad they will throw trash through the intake and you will see that in the other cylinders.

$.02

[Big Blue24]

****UPDATE****

I think we found the problem, it looks like the #1 piston is hitting the head. The faint valve marks I could see in the borescope turned out to be the edge of the valve recessed pockets.

We're going to raise the motor, pull the oil pan, and remove #1 piston/rod assembly to look at the bearings. Hopefully the crank is still in good shape and we can just buy a used rod/piston, or have this rod rebuilt.

There is enough wear that #1 cylinder at TDC is about .020" below the deck surface, whereas all the other pistons protrude a few thousandths like their supposed to. What this means to me is that when the motor is running, #1 is loose enough to protrude past the deck far enough to smack the head. When the motor is cold, the oil is super thick and the piston is cold and "not swelled". After running a few minutes, it gets warm enough to make contact.

I'll bet we could get the knock to go away for a while with an oversized head gasket, but it would only be a matter of time before the connection rod assembly gets loose enough to make contact again.


http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild7.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild8.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild9.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild10.jpg


This is #2 piston for comparison sake as it looked without cleaning:

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild11.jpg


The next two pictures are the head @ cylinder #1. All of the valves and seats visually look in-tact and correct.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild12.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild13.jpg

Cylinders #2-6 look great, perfect cross hatch, no signs of wear. Cylinder #1, however, pictured below has signs of wear up near the top. I assume this wear is from the piston hitting the head and wobbling a little till the slack in the bearings or piston pin or whatever is taken up and piston starts travel down. None of the marking can be caught with your fingernail or even felt by hand or with a tool, but you can see the discoloration.

I assume this will hone out when we do an "in-frame" rebuild of cylinder #1.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild14.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild15.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild16.jpg

For these pictures, the piston was cleaned with a shop rag and a little brake cleaner. This is at #1 TDC and you can see that the piston does not protrude. #6, the companion cylinder protrudes roughly .015" if I had to guess, far enough to feel with your bare hand or finger nail. This along with the wear on the top of the piston between the valve relief pockets lead me to the diagnosis that #1 has vertical slop and is hitting the head. The other 5 pistons have legible factory markings, #1 is only legible in the valve relief pockets where it can't make contact with the head.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild17.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67Rebuild18.jpg

[Big Blue24]

$100 says it is the fuel system....

I'll take that bet!!! Please gift the money through paypal so I don't get screwed over on the 3% transaction fee..... LOL




Back to the rebuild:

Tips?

Advice?

Suggestions?


Would anyone dare slap it back together with an oversized head gasket? The owner wants to keep the truck for a while so he decided to fix it correctly. Just curious if anyone has had this problem and "patched-it" together with a thick head gasket.

[Joesixpack]

GAWD NO.....thicker gasket.....LOL Either rod bearings or wrist pin % on the bearings, more than likely the crank will need to be cleaned up. Horseshoe planted up ass and its in the wrist pin a relatively painless fix. (except for the horseshoe)

[JWhite]

I'll take that bet!!! Please gift the money through paypal so I don't get screwed over on the 3% transaction fee..... LOL



I'm sure you would.

How long was the engine knocking before he took it somewhere? That isnt the sound of a spun rod bearing, it is too consistent. BUT I suppose that if the bearing is completely GONE....

Did you ever cut open the filter?

[Big Blue24]

I'm sure you would.

How long was the engine knocking before he took it somewhere? That isnt the sound of a spun rod bearing, it is too consistent. BUT I suppose that if the bearing is completely GONE....

Did you ever cut open the filter?

The knock is because the piston is so loose, it flies up past the top of the block deck when running and hits the head. In other words THE KNOCK IS THE METALLIC SOUND OF ALUMINUM HITTING CAST IRON The only way for this to happen is sloppy worn bearings, or possibly a damaged piston that has vertical play on the piston pin, or loose rod caps from maybe a half-failed rod bolt.




Next week we'll get the bottom end torn apart and I'll take pictures of the rod and bearing surfaces on #1. Then I'll come back and ask advice on how to fix a mangled crank "in-frame"

[coorsman2005]

wow atleast you caught it before it made a window

[JWhite]

I get what you are saying, just was curious if the bearing had spun to the point where it spit out all the material. If it is the crank journal it is probably flat spotted and cant be fixed in-frame.

[DRT086.7]

If it were me Id just pull the motor completely at this point, its alot easier to work on like that.

[Big Blue24]

I've never pulled or read up on pulling the entire 6.7 motor. I assume the tranny, turbo, downpipe, CAC, Radiator, AC, etc., etc. have to come out to pull the motor, sounds like a lot of work.....
Unless of course the crank is toast, then you'll be pulling the whole motor anyway (fingers crossed this isn't so...)

[Big Blue24]

Looks like all of the damage is consolidated to cylinder #1 rod, bearing, and journal. Also, the oil ring was broken, don't know how or why, but the compression rings are just fine.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl11.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl12.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl13.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl14.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl15.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl16.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl17.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl18.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl19.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl110.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl111.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl112.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl113.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl114.jpg

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/67EngineCyl115.jpg

[duck_04]

is the engine still in the truck?

[Big Blue24]

Should we polish the crank in-frame with some emery paper, measure, and get an oversized bearing?

What about new rings? Maybe just install a used rod, piston, and rings on #1 with a new oversized bearing?

[Big Blue24]

is the engine still in the truck?

Yes.

And it didn't take long at all to drop the pan and raise the motor a few inches.

[duck_04]

From the looks of the pics, the crank is probably gonna have to be turned. I would do it right while you are doing it.

[chance cobb]

ouch

[DRT086.7]

Crank has to come out or you will just be putting a short term bandaid on it.

[LReiff]

I have a complete 6.7 short block for sale.

[Joesixpack]

Sounds like the big end of a rod double tapping when you rev it up. Frequency seems to quick to be in the valve train.

Did you throw your head under it for a listen?



Figured that's what it sounded like.....crank's going to have to be cleaned up no question. (I suppose a dick might polish it up with emery and throw it in a auction......)

For those that diagnosed correctly where's our prize?.....LOL

[Big Blue24]

Figured that's what it sounded like.....crank's going to have to be cleaned up no question. (I suppose a dick might polish it up with emery and throw it in a auction......)

For those that diagnosed correctly where's our prize?.....LOL

Your prize is one of the following, mailed to an address of your choice in the lower (48):
1. (1) piece of the broken oil ring
2. (1) half of the spun connecting rod bearing

:welcome:

[Big Blue24]

The owner is looking for a used rod for sale, does anyone have one?

**I know this isn't the for sale or wanted to buy section but one of you guys has to have a used rod laying around. **

[Ben46a]

I suppose you can't just resize that one due to it being cracked cap can you, just thinking out loud.

[paulb]

What needs to be done, is obvious. The real question is, what caused it? It's hard to tell from the pics, but it sure looks like detonation. I would have that injector checked.

Paul

[Big Blue24]

Pictures of the crank after removing 0.008 from the crank with a loop of 180 grit paper, when we started the crank was measuring right at 2.719" meaning it had 0.002" of build-up from bearing metal transfer.

It looks like it will be almost 100% cleaned up at the first oversize bearing dimension -.25MM.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/CrankBearing1.jpg


http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/CrankBearing2.jpg


To give perspective on the remaining damage to cut out, the horizontal scuffs are from slipping the micrometer on and off the crank a couple times to ensure we maintain roundness and an even cut. So far, it's producing satisfactory results.

http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/CrankBearing3.jpg


http://i489.photobucket.com/albums/rr260/DieselBlue24/67%20Cummins%20Rebuild/CrankBearing4.jpg

[Ben46a]

And how are you keeping the journal perfectly round and true while turning it with emery cloth?

[Big Blue24]

And how are you keeping the journal perfectly round and true while turning it with emery cloth?



Lets just say one miller barring tool is worn out and the job is almost done.

[me2]

For the record, I question how you cleaned up that journal.

To me it looks like there are 2 bands around the journal yet. I'm not sure how that will work long term. I would at least plastigauge it across the whole surface.

[Big Blue24]

The owner was not able to get those two remaining bands in the middle cut out at the first oversize dimension around 2.706" so it looks like .020" total is getting cut off the journal.

[Gibson]

The owner was not able to get those two remaining bands in the middle cut out at the first oversize dimension around 2.706" so it looks like .020" total is getting cut off the journal.

Snap!!

[Ben46a]

Best of luck.

[Tobin]

Wow...

[Big Blue24]

Keep your fingers crossed, this thing is going back together next week!!!!

It's either going to sling a rod in 5 minutes or go another 100K miles!

[coorsman2005]

Why not buy a good used crank or have it turned the right way and save a block. All the time you spent could have bought a perfect used one in the wages easy. I guess it is true you can't fix stupid. If you want I would gladly take the block and rebuild it correctly and have my spare like I want.

[YOUNG GUNS15]

Its not going to sling a rod unless you forget to torque the bolts down or something. Im sure it will last a long time, the bearing shell might have some weird wear to it due to the possibility of an uneven cut. but that wont show up for a while. Props to ya for getting it done inframe and on a budget.

I wouldn't call this guy stupid coorsman...

[Big Blue24]

Truck was fully reassembled last week, fired up, and ...........

No more knock, good oil pressure, and truck runs like it should. There was a lot of manual labor put into the crank to get it smooth and true, but the end result was a smooth-true journal.

If it were my truck, I probably would have bought a new crank and pulled the whole motor because my time is a little more valuable to me than the cost of a used crank. That said, if you're short on cash and have time available, you can do most anything!

Even cut 20 thousandths off a crank journal in-frame!

[Gibson]

Glad it worked out for ya! Maybe you'll prove us wrong.

[silvercummins14]

Any idea of what may have caused this? Ran low on oil? Contaminated oil? Or just bad bearings originally?

[JonMunson4992]

Doesn't sound too good bud.

[cbass2219]

i have the same problem brought it to the dealer check the injector everything is fine did u find the problem hope they dont rack me a bill at the dealer its been there for four days. n just got a pdf delete pipe n smarty programmer didnt even have the chance to install it

[blackcloudCTD95]

I know the 6.4 "knock" is normal.. per TSB that ford put out saying it was normal engine clatter since the newer diesels are quiet you can hear the motor clatter more.. BS!!!!!!

its from over fueling during re gen mode.... plain and simple diesel fuel weaps past the rings gets into the oil and dilutes it.

fords knock... chevys knock.......

[blackcloudCTD95]

I know this is a FORD.. but same concept... actually the fords sound worse when they do it .. it sounds like piston wrist pin slap.... And the 6.7 p-strokes do it also. and ford said the same thing DONT FIX IT nothing is wrong.. MY ASS.!!


TSB 08-19-5

6.4L DIESEL ENGINE TICKING / TAPPING NOISE
Publication Date: September 9, 2008
FORD:
2008 F-Super Duty
ISSUE:
Some 2008 F-Super Duty 250-550 vehicles equipped with a 6.4L diesel engines may exhibit a random engine ticking / tapping noise that is most noticeable when engine coolant temperature is 185 degrees F (85 degrees C) or higher and from base idle to approximately 1500 RPM. Some customers may complain that this noise becomes more evident after 3000-5000 miles have accumulated on the vehicle or after an engine oil change.
ACTION:
Follow the Service Information.
SERVICE INFORMATION
The ticking / tapping noise is most noticeable at the rear of the driver's side front wheel well. 6.4L Powerstroke Diesel engines exhibit this normal audible condition (some engines will exhibit greater audible noise due to engine build variations). 6.4L Powerstroke Diesel engines are manufactured to tight tolerances in order to meet strict durability and reliability standards.
This noise is caused by the relationship between engine block, crankshaft journals, bearing inserts and oil viscosity / film. This relationship allows a pulsation that resonates through the cylinder block and is heard as a metallic ticking noise. This condition is present on all diesel engines.
Technological improvements and overall noise reduction in today's diesel engines make this issue seem new when in fact it was masked by other noises on previous engines. Other engine manufacturers report similar conditions in their diesel engines. Vehicle testing and engine tear down analysis have confirmed this condition will not effect reliability or long term durability of this engine.
Dealers should not attempt to perform vehicle to vehicle noise comparisons. This may lead to incorrect conclusions and ineffective repairs.
NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT REPAIRS FOR THIS NORMAL NOISE CONDITION. REPLACING THE ENGINE OR INTERNAL COMPONENTS WILL NOT REDUCE OR ELIMINATE THE TICKING / TAPPING NOISE. PLEASE PROVIDE THIS BULLETIN TO CUSTOMERS THAT INQUIRE ABOUT THIS CONDITION.

[blackcloudCTD95]

if it was a valve out of adjustment or not opening it would be either miss firing ( looked smooth in the video) or you would have popping out of the intake or exhaust.