Finally went to Haldex for real water inj....

[Blowby]

Scrapped the standard dual pump option to push water into a compound turbo 7.3.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/530/medium/Old_Dual-1.JPG

Not enough pressure after the manifold offset to really atomize the water worth a damn. I started by picking up a pump from Steve Cole, which I traded some service work for, and started to map out how to fit all this in an AFE intake compartment. Well after I finally figured out where to put the spare battery and designing the mount, which I printed on the 3D printer, I stuffed it in place.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/530/medium/3-30-12_002.JPG

Results are 300+ reduction in EGT's on my fuel only tune. I'm using two Snow 625's and a third party 300 to inject at 1000 psi. I mixed some cutting oil and anti corrosion oil (Napa) to one gallon of distilled water. The system holds 1 1/2 gallons and I can monitor the tank attached to the side wall, which feeds the main tank attached to the pump, and fill very easily.

Charging the battery was another story. I wanted to separate the pump from the main system since it drew the single battery down to 9v during testing. So with the addition of 1 on/off switch and 4 relays I was able to accomplish the activation based on boost and charging when the switch is on with a disconnect at WOT from the main system. I used the snap switch set up for the nitrous and just tapped the third post which is always on and off with activation.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/530/medium/3-30-12_006.JPG

Injecting locations for the water is the last phase that will be achieved during track time. I have two 625's post HP turbo and one 300 pre HP turbo coming off the 4 port black manifold on the top of the picture. Very happy with the results so far and I will also start cutting back on the oil dilution if needed. I just want the make sure the Haldex has enough lube to stay alive.

http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/530/medium/3-30-12_003.JPG

[WUnderwood]

top notch quality right there!:clap:

[dust]

Nice pics. What kit were you using? What pumps? Progressive on on/off?

[mikmaze]

just me, but i would be nervous about the pre hp nozzle, I have no proof, only caution........ if your pressure drops for any reason and you start loosing atomization, a nice stream of droplets hitting a 150k rpm wheel can do some damage, imho.

[dust]

Unless his pressure hits 40 psi or lower, he shouldn't have to worry about pressure. Interested in how the nozzles hold up for you. Thought there would be special nozzles for that high pressure.

[Blowby]

Nice pics. What kit were you using? What pumps? Progressive on on/off?

I was using dual pumps that were pushing 200+ psi with the same jets. I also tried larger jets since the cooling was not optimal. I ran this with my single for 2 years then with the twins and more fuel it wasn't enough. Progressive activation of the pumps, still using the same controller. It's an old model Coolingmist which keeps on running without any issues.

It's the same controller in this picture I found on the internet.
http://powerstrokearmy.com/photopost/data/530/controller-1.jpg

[Joesixpack]

Very nice installation!

Had a solenoid stick on this winter testing, lucky enough it was on a pull without water and a mechanical valve was shut off.

I'm going to install a second solenoid and trigger to reduce the chance of that happening again.

Also isolated its battery as the power spike is enough to mess with rail pressure.

[Blowby]

just me, but i would be nervous about the pre hp nozzle, I have no proof, only caution........ if your pressure drops for any reason and you start loosing atomization, a nice stream of droplets hitting a 150k rpm wheel can do some damage, imho.

Thanks for the concern. I did a lot of research on pre-turbo injection and decided to start with a small jet and then inspect the turbo and the leading edges of the wheel after the season. I did this with the old pumps a few years ago and sent my turbo back to Pius to inspect. No problems what so ever and I was told the volume and atomization I was using showed no wear. I now push 5 times the pressure so the droplet size will be smaller and have a lesser effect of erosion.

I did install a pop off pressure valve prior to the manifold in case the pressure drops from the pump to a level that is not safe. I have it set to 250psi now. I hope this is a fail safe system for the season. I'm not sure how much the cutting oil effects atomization and droplet size but with the testing of this mixture, prior to installing into the intake tubes, the spray was just pure mist.

[dust]

BLowby, I would say that cutting fluid should be better for your surface tension, so you should have smaller droplets because of the increased pressure, and still smaller droplets because of the cutting oil.

[Blowby]

Further results:

Ran it tonight with a few changes on the controller and fueling / timing adjustments in the tuning and gained 5 psi boost to hold at 75 psi and dropped another 100 degrees in egt's. Peaked at 1532 egt's off the line as boost was building and settled at about 1445 egt's at full boost which commanded the controller to activate 100% DC on the Haldex pump. I estimate I'll consume about 28-32 oz's on a typical 1/4 mile run.

Very happy with 400+ deg drop in egt's. :ford:

[ENafziger]

Very happy with 400+ deg drop in egt's.

Is this 400° drop compared to no water injection at all? Or 400° drop compared to the low pressure system you were running?

Either way, impressive results for sure and a top notch install!!

--Eric

[6.6lEater]

Blowby do you happen to have the pn for that hadlex pump? I've been looking into piecing something together using that pump. I assume you are running the controller to the solenoid on the pump?

[NicG]

Great thread. Short and to the point.....

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

[deerefanatic]

I too would like to know if this is a 400* drop over no injection, or over his old setup?