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roachie
07-15-2013, 05:58 PM
Ive been operating in the floor and on makeshift things for a long time. Currently a 16ga steel workbench is my table.

Over the years I have developed a distaste for tables that move. The current plan is a 4x8' 1" plate that is a little over waist high. The legs to support it are a bit of a stopping point for me.

Originally was thinking of 2x2" by 3/8" angle but that will be a pain in the ass to fit up, one of the guys at work suggested I use box tubing, but I cannot think of the proper wall thickness needed. The top sheet will weigh 1300lb + I would like to be able to support at least 3000lb on it.

Suggestions?

gwhammy
07-15-2013, 06:14 PM
I have a four foot square one with two of the legs being 3 inch square tubing and the back side welded to a three inch pipe that supports the beam for the second story and also a hoist. Never had it move. I've seen them with three to four inch angle iron for legs also. Quarter inch thickness is enough. Two inch angle may not be quit enough but I always overbuild.

Thick tables are nice, I've welded brackets and stuff to it. Cut them loose and grind it flat again. Thinking about another on the other post for the chop saw and the dirtier work.

huck25
07-15-2013, 07:06 PM
If you want it to never move use 3x3x1/4 square tubing. That should support all the weight you want. If you are using a mig to weld it together make sure you have really clean joints as migs are weak links in welding heavy metal. You would be better off using 7018- 5/32" stick seam welded all around and it would be strong enough to support your truck. lol

nwpadmax
07-15-2013, 07:22 PM
4" square tube, 1/4" wall for what you are doing. The 2x2 angle isn't even close to being stiff enough, unless you also run it horizontally all the way around the bottom as bracing....and some gussets.

4" wide flange (some folks call that "I-beam" but it's not) would also work without a lot of additional support.

roachie
07-15-2013, 07:33 PM
I was thinking the supports would be made into a box frame with the table welded too it. 3" of overhang with vertical braces in 3 or 4 places along the length and and lower shelf made from expanded metal to hold randoms.

gwhammy
07-16-2013, 05:44 AM
If you are building a braced stand for it to set on the two inch will probably work. I welded the legs on mine with no braces but the pole anchored to the slab and building offers stability. 1 inch plate is a little overkill unless you already have it. The one I use is 3/4 that was left over from building brackets. I would say 1/2 inch would work.

oldestof11
07-16-2013, 05:59 AM
I was thinking the supports would be made into a box frame with the table welded too it. 3" of overhang with vertical braces in 3 or 4 places along the length and and lower shelf made from expanded metal to hold randoms.

I'll try to get a pic of our shops table. Made of 48x6x1" slats with pockets bolts. 3 cross braces. 2" between each slat. He can unbolt and move the slats outward so the table is bigger or remove slats to allow for awkward parts

slammed1500ssc
07-16-2013, 07:21 AM
My shop table is made out of 2x3 tubing 1/2 top plate 5x12 long I built Carzy stuff on it.

oldblue116
07-16-2013, 07:52 AM
If you want it to never move use 3x3x1/4 square tubing. That should support all the weight you want. If you are using a mig to weld it together make sure you have really clean joints as migs are weak links in welding heavy metal. You would be better off using 7018- 5/32" stick seam welded all around and it would be strong enough to support your truck. lol

If your using a 110 .030 wire yes, but if you had a decent 220 with .045 wire and knew what you were doing It wouldn't be any issue.

diesel_importer
07-16-2013, 07:56 AM
flux core wire, also ^^^

crackerman
07-16-2013, 08:30 AM
have more than 3" of overhang, it will give you more depth to clamp odd shaped objects to table.

here would be an ultimate work bench... set to proper height however.
Projects Building a new fab table: Somewhat budget consious - THE H.A.M.B. (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=577892&highlight=frame+table)

roachie
07-16-2013, 05:41 PM
have more than 3" of overhang, it will give you more depth to clamp odd shaped objects to table.

here would be an ultimate work bench... set to proper height however.
Projects Building a new fab table: Somewhat budget consious - THE H.A.M.B. (http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=577892&highlight=frame+table)

Why the hell would you show me that, it took me a week to tell myself that a 4x12 was too big!

BluegrassDiesel
07-16-2013, 05:58 PM
We have a 3'x8' table, 3/8" thick, with a 2" .250" wall frame and gusseted legs. Not huge but big enough to handle about anything we do.

rgullett83
07-16-2013, 08:02 PM
I have a 3'x6' 3/4" top plate 4" sch 80 pipe for legs, plenty stout for anything I will do.

Sent from my GT-I9300

huck25
07-16-2013, 10:10 PM
Your right guys but not a lot of guys have a 220 mig.

Tate
07-16-2013, 10:37 PM
We have a 3'x8' table, 3/8" thick, with a 2" .250" wall frame and gusseted legs. Not huge but big enough to handle about anything we do.

Thats the size of table I intend to make, although I'll use 4" C-channel for the frame under, since I have it laying around and its free. 4' is just too deep when placed up against a wall, can't reach the outlets.

I'd look at putting some casters on it that are on jack bolts, so you can lower them down to move it around without adjusting the legs.

06 DIESEL
07-17-2013, 07:19 PM
I'd look at putting some casters on it that are on jack bolts, so you can lower them down to move it around without adjusting the legs.

I like this way of jacking up the table.

Workbenches - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together (http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144173)

BluegrassDiesel
07-17-2013, 08:03 PM
Thats the size of table I intend to make, although I'll use 4" C-channel for the frame under, since I have it laying around and its free. 4' is just too deep when placed up against a wall, can't reach the outlets.

I'd look at putting some casters on it that are on jack bolts, so you can lower them down to move it around without adjusting the legs.


That's exactly why we went with 3' instead of 4, so you could reach the wall outlet and the switch for the overhead light.

Chris Tobin
07-17-2013, 09:20 PM
Your right guys but not a lot of guys have a 220 mig.

If someone doesn't have a 220 mig they don't need a welding table like the ones we are talking about here!:doh:

72chevy
07-17-2013, 10:54 PM
If someone doesn't have a 220 mig they don't need a welding table like the ones we are talking about here!:doh:

Good point. my welding bench is 4'X10' 1" thick with 10" dia. sch80 legs, it don't move much.

huck25
07-18-2013, 06:30 AM
It is handy to have a fab table and not weld on it. You wouldn't believe what people try to weld with little buzz boxes. In the almost 20yrs. I've been a ticketed welder, I've pretty much seen it all and had to clean up a lot of it.

Tate
07-18-2013, 11:45 AM
I like this way of jacking up the table.

Workbenches - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together (http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=144173)

Thats slick, although more expensive way to move a table. Ones we had at work were 5x3 work tables, two legs had wheels on the end, the other legs had two small handles. Pick it up and walk it around like a wheel barrow. Easy to move and was real sturdy for what we were working with.

roachie
08-08-2013, 01:40 PM
Do to budget constraints I may reduce the size to 1/2", but for those concerned I welded some 2" plate together last weekend.....this shouldnt be an issue.

gwhammy
08-08-2013, 05:47 PM
Shame you weren't closer, I've got several different sizes and thicknesses of plate steel. Anything from a 1/8 to 1 inch.

TAftw
08-22-2013, 10:37 AM
Do a search for welding tables on the Garage Journal forum, get comfy, and read for a few days. You'd be amazed at what the guys over there come up with. The way they document and explain everything is great too.

The Garage Journal (http://www.garagejournal.com)

Tate
08-22-2013, 11:35 AM
Do a search for welding tables on the Garage Journal forum, get comfy, and read for a few days. You'd be amazed at what the guys over there come up with. The way they document and explain everything is great too.

The Garage Journal (http://www.garagejournal.com)

They have some over the top projects on that site. Pretty cool place.

tater_thrower76
08-22-2013, 11:52 AM
1 1/2" thick
5'x10'
Came out of a hot oil press and I can run water through it to help keep cool when I have a large weld goin on to better as a heat sink
I recomend using 3"x1/4" in 6 legs and flip then get everything flat and X it or tie legs together to maintain rigidiness
And keep legs in deep enough for good clamping on corners
I also found a couple holes through it help while fitting some things
I plan on putting drawers under it to hold clamps and welding consumables
Over coarse they'll be tucked under far enough to maintain the clamping area
Oh and have 2"x8" casters on it so a couple guys can move it around
And a good grounding lug for good connections

NELSON359
08-22-2013, 11:52 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/23/ba6ymete.jpg
The welding table at work 4x7 5/8 carbon steel plate

JJeepyjohn
08-29-2013, 12:08 AM
My table is about 5'x10' its maybe a little too large sometimes but will hold Damn near anything. I moved it in with a tractor and haven't moved it since. I'll try and get some pics tomorrow.

Exodus
08-29-2013, 12:58 AM
Whatever size you do choose, take the top plate in to a water jet service and have a hole grid put in it. This way you can drop in JIGS anywhere on the table and use bolts to clamp projects down. I just had mine done for a 7/16-14 heli coil.

NELSON359
08-29-2013, 04:52 AM
Whatever size you do choose, take the top plate in to a water jet service and have a hole grid put in it. This way you can drop in JIGS anywhere on the table and use bolts to clamp projects down. I just had mine done for a 7/16-14 heli coil.

^^^^^^^^this

roachie
09-29-2013, 01:03 AM
Bringing this back up to get some more discussion going. I was thinking about using this as an excuse to buy a mag drill and make the hole grid.

The debate between 1" and 1/2" plate for the top is still eating at me.

Tate
09-29-2013, 04:53 PM
Unless you're building something real heavy or doing some heavy hammer work, I think 1/2" would be adequate.

roachie
10-01-2013, 01:38 PM
Any advantages to A36 alloy vs regular carbon plate?

Now thinking C 6 x 8.2 for a 6.5x3.5' frame under the table.

nwpadmax
10-01-2013, 08:07 PM
Any advantages to A36 alloy vs regular carbon plate?

Now thinking C 6 x 8.2 for a 6.5x3.5' frame under the table.

For what you're doing, there is no practical difference. Get on with it!!