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View Full Version : 4020 clutch replacement. Any help?


4x4dually
11-12-2007, 08:56 AM
Ok, now that I lost synchronization in 3rd in my pickup, the dang blasted clutch in my 4020 crapped out, then I pulled a muscle in my neck. This weekend has been a huge pile of shiatt since it started. Anyways.....

Does anyone have any useful tips for breaking this tractor in half? I've never done it so it will be a new experience. I just ordered the IT manual for it so I will at least know how it goes back together.

Any tips on tool needed or tricks or a cheaper place to get replacement parts than Abilenemachine.com would be great. And I pay in beer for any on-site assistance!!

Thanks.

366ci_cummins
11-12-2007, 10:47 AM
its not bad at all, as long as you have the split stands. just stick a floor jack under the rear by the draw bar and that will support it from rolling over. Then the split stands just go on the frame rails towards the back. when you split it at first you will want to try to move the front and rear apart at the sametime. Then once you get them apart it really up to you which end you move. I prefer to move the back section because its easier to move, just push the back tires.. ...........hope this helps some

Signature600
11-12-2007, 10:58 AM
Any tips on tool needed or tricks or a cheaper place to get replacement parts than Abilenemachine.com would be great. And I pay in beer for any on-site assistance!!

Thanks.

You just need a clutch, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing?

I can get you a price on those;) Hy Capacity has clutches for all makes...we use them in all our stuff, good quality, and good service!

Chris

4x4dually
11-12-2007, 11:02 AM
Thanks for the info. I have a loader on it can I leave it on and use it to keep the front end from rolling on me? Just set it on the shop floor and fill it full of feed sacks or something?

Chris, I'll try to get it apart by this weekend. Once I see what's shot, I'll give you a hollar and price some stuff. Abilene was:
clutch, puck style HD $120
Pressure plate w/ PTO disc $420
3 other bearings $56
Shipping $50

About $650 total. And like I said, I don't know if I need all that or not, he just priced me the entire thing. Can I do a rear main seal at this time too? Is it hard? If I got her split, I want to do all I can. This tractor leaks at every joint just about. Not bad, just enough to collect dirt and make a mess.

Signature600
11-12-2007, 11:08 AM
Rear main...I would while I'm there. You'll probably have to get the flywheel machined, so it will be off!

As for the loader...if you want to roll the rear away, that sounds like a good plan...but it will still need supported. We take loaders off to split so the brackets and crap aren't in the way, but he also have the splitting stands and a concrete floor :p We also roll the front end away from the rear to do a clutch...it's normally easier to control, and lighter to push and adjust. Even if you don't adjust anything when you roll it apart, it never goes right back in:D

Chris

366ci_cummins
11-12-2007, 11:22 AM
well im not sure it will support the weight of the tractor, the way the loader mounts and all. It could but, i would hate to find out that it wont the hard way haha. if you wast so far away i'd say you could just borrow them but thats a long drive lol.

4x4dually
11-12-2007, 11:26 AM
but he also have the splitting stands and a concrete floor :p We also roll the front end away from the rear to do a clutch...it's normally easier to control, and lighter to push and adjust. Even if you don't adjust anything when you roll it apart, it never goes right back in:D

Chris

I got a smooth, clean floor in my shop so it shouldn't be too aweful difficult. I was thinking I'd just get some glue and put some hair around it then turn the lights off. I should be able to hit it the first time! :hehe:

If I leave the loader on, I will still jack stand and support it well. It sound easier to turn the big back tires to move the rear half, but the tread might make it a little too rough to line up, no? I guess we'll find out!

Thanks guys.