Engine stand/cart.

[jimbo486]

I'll be pulling the Cummins out of my Dodge in the coming weeks and I'm wanting to build a cart that will capture both sides of the where the motor mounts bolt to. What I'm trying to determine is specs for some steel to fabricate the cart out of. I'm thinking of square tubing with at least a 3/16" wall. With that in mind, what size tubing would work well to support a fully dressed Cummins?

Has anybody built something similar that could give me any ideas or things to be aware of? Pictures are always good for reference. I have a Harbor Freight welder which does well for me. Just for good measure, I'll probably make multiple passes on each joint.

[jlibert]

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/4EF66099-79C0-4E1E-9B56-5685576388D4_zpsg4hwhkin.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/D6AEC3A9-8DEB-4BC2-BC97-F4131896B08D_zpsoxinnjnt.jpg

[Mooner1]

That thing is noice!

[jimbo486]

Looks like maybe 1"x4" tubing? That would work. After bolting to the block and the width is set, I could span another piece of steel across both ends of the legs. Then bolt or weld some caster to the bottom and be set.

Thanks, J.P.!

[Highwayman]

Just out of curiousity, what's the reasoning behind wanting a stand that holds both sides?

[Howling]

With the stand pictured above you can rotate the motor 360* and a fully assembled Cummins is no lite weight.

[Highwayman]

I just never had a problem with my traditional stand, except of course when I misplaced the handle so I was using short bar stock and nearly broke my wrist.

But I guess I would feel safer with the extra support.

[Broaner]

Got this in a trade with a local member. Works well even with the engine front heavy from the timing crap. There are 2 large bearings supporting the rotating mechanism.
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad231/Broaner/8068196C-9FD8-49D8-AC72-A5AC1B5BE8DB_zpsbwddfhpn.jpg
http://i939.photobucket.com/albums/ad231/Broaner/87C62339-9FBD-4F6A-861D-E96D98FF3F3E_zpsywbze2zz.jpg

[WUnderwood]

^^^ that is tits


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Woosley]

Is the mounting plate welded to the shaft?

[Sanger]

Can you post pictures of the gear drive? When you rotate the motor what keeps the motor in a certain position a pin?

[Tate]

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/4EF66099-79C0-4E1E-9B56-5685576388D4_zpsg4hwhkin.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/D6AEC3A9-8DEB-4BC2-BC97-F4131896B08D_zpsoxinnjnt.jpg

That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.

[DISTURBED]

That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.

That's what I was thinking. I've had them get away from me on a normal stand attached dead center of the block. I bought a couple 2000 pound stand from jegs and they work to mount them after removing the backing plate. That thing would hurt someone !!

[Broaner]

I'll get some more pics. The plate is welded so attaching to the engine is tricky but manageable by myself. The method to lock it in place is a vice grip or 2 on the chain and gear. Its not really strong enough for torqing head bolts but good for just about everything else. Yes its difficult to rotate by hand. Definitely a 2 man or a 1 man + hoist job. Ol Blue traded this to me and he has more I think. haha

[jlibert]

That looks dangerous if you ever wanted to spin it upside down if the head is on. Or impossible going right side up with the head on. Unless you're using a crane of some sort to control the rotation.

That's what I was thinking. I've had them get away from me on a normal stand attached dead center of the block. I bought a couple 2000 pound stand from jegs and they work to mount them after removing the backing plate. That thing would hurt someone !!

It works fine. It isn't dangerous. There is a pin that holds it place at every 90 degree interval.

[DISTURBED]

It works fine. It isn't dangerous. There is a pin that holds it place at every 90 degree interval.

How do you roll the engine over in a controlled fashion? With out your nuts hitting the floor!

[jimbo486]

Maybe a really, really long bar?

[jimbo486]

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/4EF66099-79C0-4E1E-9B56-5685576388D4_zpsg4hwhkin.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q312/jlibert/DIESEL/D6AEC3A9-8DEB-4BC2-BC97-F4131896B08D_zpsoxinnjnt.jpg
What size and wall thickness is that? It looks to be about 1.5"x4", 0.125" wall tubing?

I found some scrap pieces of that and cut them to 48" and 36" lengths. As well as some 2"x2", 0.250" wall tubing.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160201/1642daf5af0a5c20382f2d11e2f119df.jpg

[jlibert]

The stand is at my friend's shop, but i think it's 2x4 and it's either 1/8" or 3/16".

[jimbo486]

Thanks. I think these pieces should be sufficient to hold the full dressed engine.

[AHall]

I built this the other evening. 3/16" 3" tube. 4" sch40 for the head.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm250/adamlhall2008/Drag%20truck/8C58C982-DAF9-45B6-B867-A70CCB0D93E8_zpsupbal6hb.jpg

[jimbo486]

Nice! Simple setup.

[jimbo486]

Mine will probably end up being a little overkill but that usually happens. I'd much rather know the limit is far more than what I have planned to put it through.

[jimbo486]

Here's how far I got today.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/468994aba77c6eb7d6303c8391d38173.jpg

[jimbo486]

Found some locking casters rated at 275lbs. each. With 4 of them, a total capacity of 1100lbs. which should be enough.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/a2312f8b009062f081826c8453ed4bd1.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/b47c4d34de5cd2d20242688d8b5dbaa9.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160206/3cb23ad6257dfe43d807c94ac4c68c2a.jpg

[AHall]

Those cheap casters really get a workout with a heavy engine. Reason I went with the 6" casters rated for 1275lbs each. Moves like butter.

[jimbo486]

I wanted around a 6" caster and was looking for some with a brake/lock but the only metal supply yard open near me didn't have any.

I don't plan on moving it very much, honestly. Mostly, it'll be just a stand while I remove the head and other accessories down to the shortblock. At that point, it won't move very far at all before it's lifted into truck to transport to a machine shop.

[Tate]

Worse that happens is you add two more in the center.

[jimbo486]

I didn't think about that. Certainly easily done if needed. I might do that just because. They could even be fixed.

Not bad looking welds for an amateur with a Harbor Freight welder, if I may say so myself.

[WUnderwood]

No, don't sell yourself short, those are VERY good welds, sir


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mike diesel]

If you don't have the means to build your own stand, the harbor freight 2 ton stand holds no problem. Had my fully dressed duramax motor on it and there was zero flex. I welded a few bolts to the head to secure the load at angles. I may fab up a ratcheting chain crank to assist in rotating though.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/mikstas/Mobile%20Uploads/20150210_232025_zps8xklfnrb.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/mikstas/Mobile%20Uploads/20150218_213424_zpskssltfl4.jpg

[jimbo486]

No, don't sell yourself short, those are VERY good welds, sir

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you, sir! It's nice to be able to crank the machine up and start laying down beads without much of a worry. Thinner gauge requires a lot more of your attention and speed.

If you don't have the means to build your own stand, the harbor freight 2 ton stand holds no problem. Had my fully dressed duramax motor on it and there was zero flex. I welded a few bolts to the head to secure the load at angles. I may fab up a ratcheting chain crank to assist in rotating though.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/mikstas/Mobile%20Uploads/20150210_232025_zps8xklfnrb.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/mikstas/Mobile%20Uploads/20150218_213424_zpskssltfl4.jpg

I actually bought that engine stand along with a their 2-ton hoist and an 800lbs. transmission jack. Nice to hear that the stand holds up well. While I'm sure it will hold, I still wanted to build the cart to put the engine on during the first bit of disassembly. Once it's down to a short block, I'll work on mounting it on the HF stand. Knowing it'll be a b!tch to rotate on the stand, regardless of weight, is also why I'm doing this. I like the idea of adding the bolts to rotating head to help secure the load in any positions. I think I'll do the same as well. Not sure if I could trust the single pin that came with it. Not to mention, you can only lock it at certain degrees. Whereas, your idea, you can lock it in whatever position you want.

I also thought about welding a plate to the backside of the tube (where the supplied and too short of a handle slips in to rotate the mounting plate). That plate would have either a 1/2" or 3/4" square punched in the center of it to accept a breaker bar of either size. Aside from much more leverage from a longer bar, I'm hoping that would give me better control when it comes to rotating the engine. That's the idea, anyway. The picture in my head is like a spindle nut socket.

http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/161603815751-0-1/s-l1000.jpg

That. Or should I just make this possible on the stand I'm building? It wouldn't be very hard to do but I'm also planning to build mounts that would capture the front of the block as well. If I do that, those mounts would be in the way of being able to rotate the engine. Unless I make the front mounts removable. It would be one less stand I have to store and I could return the HF stand and put that money towards something. I'm trying to consider all possibilities.

[jimbo486]

I was able to find some more info on these particular casters if anybody was curious. Manufactured by DH Casters International (Ontario, Calif.), Model C-ML4P1PUS utilizes a non-marking solid polyurethane wheel and is rated for 275lbs. each.

[jimbo486]

Got some .375" flat bar stock cut to make motor mounts with. 3.5"x7" and 3"x5" plates.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160211/37400a1098a4f97e5963449bdc470d8c.jpg

[9724VF350]

I built this. I like it. It's not for everyone. I like being able to sit a bare block on it and not remove it until after I've dyno'd the engine.

These are some old pictures. I've got a variety of different rear mounts for different bell housings, back plates, adapters, ect.

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x471/9724VF350/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps0fi3dslq.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x471/9724VF350/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsuhrqo1yx.jpg

http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x471/9724VF350/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmxuwjjar.jpg

[jimbo486]

That's awesome! Looks like the mounts are adjustable for various blocks. Nice work.

I plan on bolting the 3.5"x7" plates to the block where the OEM mounts go and the 3"x5" plates to the side at the front right behind the timing case. Adjacent to the 2 holes you used on yours. I also wanted to be able to remove the transmission adapter and other accessories without having mounts in the way.

I don't plan on rebuilding engines for a living so this is essentially gonna be a one-time use. I would consider selling it after getting my use out of it. Out of curiosity, I asked a local shop about powder coating. Estimate was a couple hundred dollars.

[schnutsy]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160212/c7d69e2a2ec7e7eea9d77056f7e6b2b5.jpg Here's what I made. Used 3" x3" square tubing for the base. Also used 3" tubing for the post and then 2 1/2" pipe inside 3" for turning the motor. And for spinning the motor around I used an old gearbox reduction off an old set of tractor trailer landing gear. I also put bearings on the shaft going inside the 3" pipe to make it very smooth to turn.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[jimbo486]

Damnit. Why can I never think of that kind of stuff? Looks good man!

[Bodacious]

I used an old gearbox reduction off an old set of tractor trailer landing gear

:clap: GENIUS :clap:

[jimbo486]

:clap: GENIUS :clap:
No doubt! Never even crossed my mind.

[jimbo486]

Fabricated the motor mounts yesterday. 2" - .125" wall square tubing welded to the .375" plates. The stand should be finalized by the end of today.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/aa8b070803c0d92e00e4ff0f2176360a.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/b92fbcb72ab01ee6a5b49b347ee692ed.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/02d79a2ab60056ce63ad414dd27a40b9.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/873988a4307626249492e5aaad97d999.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160213/5814ef5d62f21f6d40de63ef749c8399.jpg

[jimbo486]

Just about done. Solid as is without any other supports.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160214/c1af46e4f2249a00ec0b6b593f0e70b4.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160214/a252cb7206cc22ca455f046eb787f86b.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160214/efd222c2d2d463a550246aea2bf0d99f.jpg

[AHall]

Did you not want to use the stand to disassemble the engine? Or is this just for storage purposes?

[jimbo486]

I'm only disassembling down to the shortblock. This is mainly for that and transporting it to and from the machine shop for a rebuild.

Aside from the receiver tubing, I got all the steel for free. I only have about $120 in it.

[AHall]

The option to rotate the engine is a handy one.

[Tate]

You can always make those supports out of round tubing later for rotating. You might cut the top of the receiver tubes off so you can bolt your supports onto the block and then drop it into the stand without having to try and line up bolts if the engine isn't perfectly level.

[jimbo486]

That thought did cross my mind. It did take some doing to get it from the hoist to the stand.

Overall, I'm please with version 1.0.

[jimbo486]

The option to rotate the engine is a handy one.

I do also have a 2-ton engine stand that will rotate.

[jimbo486]

I'm going to call this done for now. I had been trying to determine a means to support the rear of the engine in a way that wouldn't interfere with the removal or install of the transmission adapter. Here's what I came up with.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/Fabrication/20160304_143120_zpsrxm7wt3f.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/Fabrication/20160304_143103_zpsi07i1iek.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/Fabrication/20160304_144443_zpsmjaopmhg.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/Fabrication/20160304_144506_zps3wqlnzs9.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/Fabrication/20160304_144421_zpsccozihdm.jpg

The engine is now on the 2-ton Harbor Freight stand awaiting oil pan, cam and tappet removal. Once done, it will be on it's way to the machine shop. While there, I'm going to replace the casters with a larger diameter. The only trouble I've had with these 4" is getting the legs of the engine hoist to fit beneath the cart. I had to roll it up onto 3/4" plywood to make clearance enough to do so. I think some 6" casters will do the trick.

[jimbo486]

I found some 6" casters to use and finally gusseted and braced the motor mount uprights.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160318/2ba2d17e49ad883190c4bd146e5202da.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160318/25d03a41c2c8b3deb78407a3b32e6226.jpg

[Made-In-TX]

If you don't have the means to build your own stand, the harbor freight 2 ton stand holds no problem. Had my fully dressed duramax motor on it and there was zero flex. I welded a few bolts to the head to secure the load at angles. I may fab up a ratcheting chain crank to assist in rotating though.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h133/mikstas/Mobile%20Uploads/20150210_232025_zps8xklfnrb.jpg

I have the same stand from HF. I've used it through my whole rebuild and it's been working great. It held the full motor without any problems but it is a pain to rotate it with the head still on. Also, it's not too bad to wheel around the garage. Either way it was well worth the $110 it cost.

If I had it to do again, I'd weld up a couple sprockets and throw on a chain and crank handle.

Hopefully I don't have to use it again! :lolly:

By the way, the fab is looking good, looks solid as crap!

[jimbo486]

By the way, the fab is looking good, looks solid as crap!

Thanks. It did well on the trip home from the machine shop. I don't think the engine moved at all.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b235/jimbo486/cars%20and%20trucks/1990%20dodge%20ram%20d350/20160404_123948_zps6ak1vt3b.jpg