P-pumped trucks - Timing marks on balancer referenced to what?

GOT-Torque

GOT-Torque

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First of all, is there a sticker available for the Fluidamper balancer with the timing marks already on it?

Second, what did you use for a pointer to reference your timing marks to. Where did it mount?

Yes I can make about anything work, but I'd like to see where others put it and how well you can see it once it's in the truck (my engine is still on the stand).

Heck, maybe I don't need all the timing marks anyways? I'm thinking if I mark TDC, that would be all I need to know? wouldn't it?

I made a tool for finding exact TDC when the first injector is removed... Next is a tool for mounting my dial caliper on my pump to time the pump (Yes I know there are tools available for this, but after this engine build I'm completely out of money...:bang)
 
i just maked the ballancer and the rpm sensor with yellow paint marker at tdc. seems to work well for me but im not sure where the sensor is with a fluidamper.
 
I used the crank sensor, but something that seems to work better is where the serpentine belt crosses the balancer, put a mark there.
 
Im not running a tack so i removed the sensor and on one of the studs i made a pointer out of plumbers stap and replaced the other stud with a reg. bolt. It is very easy now to find TDC for timing or vavle adjustments. The whole front end of mine is now clean since the new elect. water pump, no belt, alt., etc....
 
Just a mark on the dampner that when lines up with the crank sensor, I know i'm close then pin it from there. Finding TDC via dial indicator in the number 1 injector bore is more accurate i'd guess but the pin's easy enough for me.
 
I guess they missed the fact that you are a 24v, and don't have a engine speed sensor or a timing pin. I made a marker out of stainless that bolts to the oil pan. I made some studs out of all-thread, run a nut on it for the oilpan, then a washer, put the marker on it, then washers and nuts. Then just scribed a line on the damper.
 

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You cannot depend on that mark being accurate.

It’s critical that you find true TDC.

Whether you do this by positive stop method, or by piston drop method it’s a key element in tuning.
the pinky in the back of the timing cover is not going to work when you’re working towards maximum power.
 
Can someone describe the drop valve method to finding TDC? Do you have to remove one valve spring and locks to do it this way?

I just made a bracket to hold a rod that fits thru the injector hole and sits on top of the center of the piston (not sure if this would work on a 12V with a noncentered bowl). I then put my dial indicator to read movement of the rod. I originally thought it would be tough to find TDC since the piston seems to dwell around TDC for such a large amount of rotation of the crank, however when using this method it is very obvious where it is located. I guess I should have known, just never done it before, you can tell exactly down to the 0.001" where the piston stops rising and starts dropping...

Nate, thanks for the pics. It gets the ideas flowin'

Comp, do you have any ideas for better accuracy regarding TDC? Also, did you ever find any rockers for me:Cheer:
 
If you you're finding TDC with a dial on the piston, if you zero the dial when the piston is dwelling at TDC, mark the balancer when its at, say, .005" when its coming up and going down, then split the marks. That will be your TDC. I'd trust that before the drop valve method, at least its a direct reading.
 
A mark on the balancer is good enough for valve adjustment and if you have a aftermarket cam (higher performance) you may even need to mark it for companion cylinders 1-6 ,2-5,3-4 so you can adjust valves at the base of the cam.

Use a dial indicator any time you plan on adjusting pump timing as a "little" off on crank degrees can make a big difference in end timing.

IKE
 
Tate, I've heard the same thing. I'll do that when I mark it for TDC.

IKE, I had planned to set the timing now for say 15 degrees with the adj. pump gear fully retarded. Then move the gear one hole at a time taking the measurements for each until I reach say 35 degrees. This way I can adjust my timing by rotating my adj. pump gear one hole at a time and already know what the timing will be based upon my measurements now... Center of gear is keyed to the pump shaft, so nothing should be able to change.

Maybe my idea is way off, but that was my plan.

Knowing TDC and when different cylinders valves are on the base circle of the cam for valve adjustments is a great idea...
 
Do you have your head on the engine yet? I did mine with one of the long cover bolts but since you have billet cover it would be a lil different.

I found my TDC by putting a plate over the #1 piston and turning it to TDC on the compression stroke and Exhaust stroke and made a tiny mark at both places. and your True TDC will be right in the middle between those 2 marks.

Brett
 

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GOT-Torque said:
First of all, is there a sticker available for the Fluidamper balancer with the timing marks already on it?
Click to expand...

If anyone would like I have made some timing tape to fit the 12v and 24v Fluidamprs. We had some requests in the past so I just had some made up here in the office. If anyone would a strip just let me know and I can drop it in the mail.
Thanks.

Dan
 
PM sent.
Thanks.


Fluidampr said:
If anyone would like I have made some timing tape to fit the 12v and 24v Fluidamprs. We had some requests in the past so I just had some made up here in the office. If anyone would a strip just let me know and I can drop it in the mail.
Thanks.

Dan
Click to expand...
 
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