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pyrobee
07-29-2008, 12:28 PM
I love diesel, and I anything performance I am looking to get started into the great world of tractor pulling!! nothing major right now just my basic diesel whatever... probably a deer or kubota! I was just wondering what should I do to get started and what is probably the best way to go tractor wise. i would like it to be a deer! if something else is better though I would go with it. I know you probably get tons of these but help me out!!!:thankyou2:

CTDYoungGun
07-30-2008, 11:16 PM
Where are you located at?

And from the little I know about tractors...it tends to be cheaper to get more power out of the International tractors...but then again I'm not sure how true this is on a small turbo/non turbo class tractor which you will want to start out with...

pyrobee
07-31-2008, 03:00 AM
well I am in Mississippi right now with the Navy but I am from Indiana. I don't know a whole lot about tractors but diesel mechanics I know a good amount about since that is what I do day in and day out. I was thinking more of a little larger tractor something that has a small turbo or what not that I can play with and maybe a cummins since that is what I like the most!!!!

you know anyone that wants a bumper just like yours but chrome? 75 bucks!!

TMONEYDIESEL
07-31-2008, 04:25 AM
Maybe call columbus diesel, they deal with alot of tractor pulling might answer a few questions,

CTDYoungGun
07-31-2008, 06:35 PM
well I am in Mississippi right now with the Navy but I am from Indiana. I don't know a whole lot about tractors but diesel mechanics I know a good amount about since that is what I do day in and day out. I was thinking more of a little larger tractor something that has a small turbo or what not that I can play with and maybe a cummins since that is what I like the most!!!!

I'd say do a search for Pulling Associations in Miss. or Indiana and see what classes they have...each association has their own rules and most of the time they post them on their site.

As for the Cummins in a tractor...we've got a few customers in Iowa and Nebraska that run B-Series cummins with an A-Pump instead of the P-Pump and run a 2.75 turbo rule...pretty neat class to watch and it would be a good starter tractor I'd think...

superih
08-04-2008, 08:55 AM
Call me a little bias but Internationals are probably the cheapest to build and be very competitive. If you are pulling a turbo diesel, you will need to be in the farmstock classes. A 1066 has a DT-414 that can be turned up quite a bit, with lots of performance parts available. You will be able to get this to 10,000 lbs pretty easy. As far as a Cummins, they are for truck guys, IH and JD motors are capable of making alot more power.

BlackSkyRacing
08-06-2008, 09:46 AM
Call me a little bias but Internationals are probably the cheapest to build and be very competitive. If you are pulling a turbo diesel, you will need to be in the farmstock classes. A 1066 has a DT-414 that can be turned up quite a bit, with lots of performance parts available. You will be able to get this to 10,000 lbs pretty easy. As far as a Cummins, they are for truck guys, IH and JD motors are capable of making alot more power.

Yep, agreed... I am an AG mechanic by day, tractor puller by night. We build all different colors up for pulling in our shop turbo and NA alike. The IH tractors have a superior head design that flows a TON of air. Depending on your local rules and how close they tend to look at things you are pretty limited on your power outputs in a stock class, but it can still be a lot of fun. 1066 International tractors are a dime a dozen and can be found in varying states of disrepair (you actually want one that is a rag that way it is cheap to buy and you can build it the way you want it). I would talk to your local pump shop as well for a little help with the pump and maybe some redesigned injectors with more smaller holes; you are severely limited by the turbo so you're going to want the best burn you can get. Remember on a stock tractor black smoke is power going out the tube. Also another great tool is a dyno, it is very beneficial to be able to play with your fuel/timing on a dyno to see what works and what doesn't. Most implement dealers have one in house and are pretty reasonable on rates to hook it up.

A deere can make decent power as well depending on the tractor, though they tend to cost quite a bit more to purchase (for some reason people seem to think they are the greatest tractor ever made). <- We see 20 Deere tractors through our shop to every 1 International $.02

Another thing to look into is to go with a Naturally Aspirated tractor first to learn how to pull (there is a LOT more to it than just building a strong tractor). They're easier to build, cost a lot less, and can still be fun while you are learning to pull. Not to mention if you get good at it you can sell your tractor at a premium and put that money towards something bigger and better :evil

pyrobee
10-29-2008, 10:44 PM
yeah I think I am going to go NA first and do that whole learning thing lol get some experience under the belt. my buddy back in Indiana has an older wheel horse and an older allis and I might be getting one of those what do you all think about those. I am trying to get a feel for the brands of tractors used since I don't have a lot of experience.

BlackSkyRacing
10-31-2008, 09:49 PM
yeah I think I am going to go NA first and do that whole learning thing lol get some experience under the belt. my buddy back in Indiana has an older wheel horse and an older allis and I might be getting one of those what do you all think about those. I am trying to get a feel for the brands of tractors used since I don't have a lot of experience.

Depends on the what model Allis you are looking at... Wheel horse? Isn't that a lawn mower?

I would look into your local pulling associations' rules and go from there. Certain tractors have a hard time making it into a class that they would be competitive in (as in they are too heavy for how much power they have). Also, in my experience, the smaller International (Farmall) tractors are easier to balance and generally have a good power to weight ratio. If you want to see an example of how well a Farmall can balance without weights (and the advantage of a Torque Amplifier) take a look here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4GkXPHkiGg and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dp9HTmvmJu0

BTW My tractor has been the points champion 3 years running...

pyrobee
11-01-2008, 08:38 AM
about the wheel horse.. told you I am new at this lol just trying to get a feel for everything.

Signature600
11-01-2008, 08:48 AM
An Allis is fine...just realize that most pulling associations cater the rules to fit Green and Red tractors. AC's typically will have to really weight up to fit the class they are required to pull in, and typically, they have a lot smaller tire than an IH or JD...

It's not impossible to be competitive, but it's not as easy as hooking up and going.

Chris

pyrobee
11-01-2008, 08:52 AM
I thats what I figured and I might go the JD route first. still considering all options though. thanks for the advice.

Signature600
11-01-2008, 11:59 AM
Don't get me wrong...depending on the rules, an AC can be a real contender...but around here, the rules are written for the JD and IH guys.

Chris

pyrobee
11-01-2008, 01:29 PM
yeah I will look into that. hey any of you guys now where I could find the info for my local pullers association or rules??? gulfport MS.

Blackdog
11-02-2008, 06:38 AM
You just need to google MS pulling associations. If you are going for a non turbo tractor Everyone above has forgot about Oliver tractors. Diesel or gas they are very strong tractors and I got one that is a good puller for a first time guy like yourself pyrobee that is setup for pulling.

Remember that when looking for a tractor it is best to stay away from a direct gear tractor. Most pullers like going with the bigger Farmall's,IH's you have a torque amplifier giving you basically a lower side to each one of the gears allowing you to keep the engine RPM's up when it lugs down.

Also the Oilver has a 2 speed hydra-power or 3 speed over-under hydra-power in between the clutch and rearend that does basically the same as the torque amplifier but the over-under allows you to go under the gear your in to keep the RPM's up or start out over direct gear and then have two lower selections to shift into to keep your RPM's up. That all works alot better than say a JD that is just in gear and thats all you got till it powers out.

Signature600
11-02-2008, 11:15 AM
Also, some pulling associations don't allow shifting gears, or T/A, over/unders, power directors etc;)

Check it out before you think you're gonna get to use them!

Chris

Blackdog
11-02-2008, 11:40 AM
Yeah but most state associations have antique and then super antique classes which will usually allow one shift during pull at least that is my experience with any assoc. I pulled with. They all should have plenty of classes and a good set of rules which in one way or another all match from assoc. to assoc.

BlackSkyRacing
11-02-2008, 09:28 PM
Also, some pulling associations don't allow shifting gears, or T/A, over/unders, power directors etc;)

Check it out before you think you're gonna get to use them!

Chris

You know it's funny... I get called a cheater all the time for using my TA :bang But it's not my fault that IH was ahead of their time with a shift on the fly. Though, as I found in my rookie year, the TA is great and all, but it requires finesse. If you don't read the track right and pull it too soon, you'll spin out; pull it too late and you won't get your rpm back. In fact on sandy or loose tracks it's best not to pull it at all.

Around here the rules are biased towards JD. The funny part is that when I first started pulling I p***ed a lot of people off in that I had less money invested in my entire tractor than they did in engine machine work (let alone parts) and I always gave them a run for their money :hehe:

Anyway, it doesn't really matter what tractor you find, so long as you like it. Just about any tractor can be made competitive with the right modifications, but it's just a question of how far you want to go and whether or not it will be legal. Just let us know what you decide on and we'll do our best to help you get it set up (for god's sake though if you go JD DON'T get a 2 cylinder)

Signature600
11-03-2008, 07:22 AM
I'm with ya...Our pulling association says you must pull in your lowest gear...in an AC, I'm a whole lot slower than the Deere's, IH's, and even the Olliver's...If I could use the higher side of the power director, it would be about perfect for my tractor.

Oh well, they couldn't tell stock RPM on a D17 Diesel if I told it to them;);)
Chris

Blackdog
11-03-2008, 10:11 AM
I agree on the 2cyl. jd's. They are too over rated. Your right to about yanking on the t/a or the hydra-power. On my Oliver when I yank on that my rpm's have to be below 1200 and sometimes after the h/p grabs I have to feather the throttle to keep it from spinning.

BlackSkyRacing
11-04-2008, 01:13 AM
I'm with ya...Our pulling association says you must pull in your lowest gear...in an AC, I'm a whole lot slower than the Deere's, IH's, and even the Olliver's...If I could use the higher side of the power director, it would be about perfect for my tractor.

Oh well, they couldn't tell stock RPM on a D17 Diesel if I told it to them;);)
Chris

Hahaha yeah, we have one pulling association that really doesn't give a darn what you do so long as you stick to a speed limit... Lowest gear?! yikes! I would spin out pretty much right away... It would be better if a guy brought out a tractor that had a flat wore out engine so it wouldn't have enough umph to spin the tires :hehe:

I agree on the 2cyl. jd's. They are too over rated. Your right to about yanking on the t/a or the hydra-power. On my Oliver when I yank on that my rpm's have to be below 1200 and sometimes after the h/p grabs I have to feather the throttle to keep it from spinning.

You know that's one thing that drives me nuts; people that run farm stock that come off the line WAY harder than they have to and just hammer down till it spins out. No feathering the throttle, no playing with the brakes, nothing... Heck, one of my best tricks is that I set my seat as far back as I possibly can and if my tractor seems to be balanced good enough I'll slide all the way back as far as I can and start bouncing. All the other pullers still haven't figured out why I do it, but all the old timers in the stands know exactly what I'm doing. Too bad I wont be able to do that with my econo mod (tractor rear, fabricated front frame, and a small block [cast iron heads, cast iron intake, single 650 carb]). But going from a 3 or 4 mph speed limit to an average speed of 17-21 should be pretty darn fun (especially since it will be another project that will cost less than $2000 :rockwoot:)

Signature600
11-04-2008, 12:02 PM
Hahaha yeah, we have one pulling association that really doesn't give a darn what you do so long as you stick to a speed limit... Lowest gear?! yikes! I would spin out pretty much right away... It would be better if a guy brought out a tractor that had a flat wore out engine so it wouldn't have enough umph to spin the tires :hehe:

My D17 makes 48hp at the PTO shaft...pulling in a 3 plow class with Farmall M's, JD's A's, Olly 66's...I'm giving up an easy 15hp to some of them;) I was 15' off the leader and 30' ahead of most of the pack, so I'm doing OK I guess:D


I would have done better but as I was starting to bite into the loose track and pull the front end, one of my Power Adjust wheels adjusted itself, and the other tire lost traction for a second, and had to start moving all over again:hehe: Gotta figure out how to fix that without welding them solid.
Chris

Blackdog
11-04-2008, 10:50 PM
My D17 makes 48hp at the PTO shaft...pulling in a 3 plow class with Farmall M's, JD's A's, Olly 66's...I'm giving up an easy 15hp to some of them;) I was 15' off the leader and 30' ahead of most of the pack, so I'm doing OK I guess:D


I would have done better but as I was starting to bite into the loose track and pull the front end, one of my Power Adjust wheels adjusted itself, and the other tire lost traction for a second, and had to start moving all over again:hehe: Gotta figure out how to fix that without welding them solid.
Chris

Swap the power adjust wheels for pressed steel and be able to take the weight of those wheels and rims and put it somewhere else on the tractor.

Signature600
11-05-2008, 08:09 AM
Swap the power adjust wheels for pressed steel and be able to take the weight of those wheels and rims and put it somewhere else on the tractor.

Yeah...if you haven't figured out, our rules are GAY...must be a factory wheel;)


I have pricebooks for when my tractor was new, but I can't find pressed steel wheels in it anywhere;)

Weight savings wouldn't be huge anyway, it's a steel center wheel. Also, all weights must be factory style, no hanging weight. My tractor is 108" wide with all my wheel weights on it;)

Chris

BlackSkyRacing
11-05-2008, 10:41 PM
Yeah...if you haven't figured out, our rules are GAY...must be a factory wheel;)


I have pricebooks for when my tractor was new, but I can't find pressed steel wheels in it anywhere;)

Weight savings wouldn't be huge anyway, it's a steel center wheel. Also, all weights must be factory style, no hanging weight. My tractor is 108" wide with all my wheel weights on it;)

Chris

I like rules like that really... I still run the factory heavy cast centers on my tractor, it balances pretty darn well as is so I figure best to leave it alone. My tractor is pretty healthy; @ 540 on the PTO it only makes 48hp, but @430 on the PTO it makes 72hp :rockwoot: I still use it in the field and run 87 octane in it too...

Ever think about drilling a couple of your power adjust slots and setting some roll pins or put in some bolts to keep the rims in their place?

Blackdog
11-05-2008, 11:10 PM
Yeah...if you haven't figured out, our rules are GAY...must be a factory wheel;)


I have pricebooks for when my tractor was new, but I can't find pressed steel wheels in it anywhere;)

Weight savings wouldn't be huge anyway, it's a steel center wheel. Also, all weights must be factory style, no hanging weight. My tractor is 108" wide with all my wheel weights on it;)

Chris

I haven't come across any rules like that. My Oliver had the power adjust wheels with the cast centers (Heavy) and I couldn't wait to get them off. The weight of those suckers was more than two guys wanted to handle.

Blackdog
11-05-2008, 11:14 PM
I like rules like that really... I still run the factory heavy cast centers on my tractor, it balances pretty darn well as is so I figure best to leave it alone. My tractor is pretty healthy; @ 540 on the PTO it only makes 48hp, but @430 on the PTO it makes 72hp :rockwoot: I still use it in the field and run 87 octane in it too...

Ever think about drilling a couple of your power adjust slots and setting some roll pins or put in some bolts to keep the rims in their place?

I wanted to run the stock centers and rims on my Farmall 450 but I wanted to run 18.4's and couldn't justify the time to widen the rims or just go pressed steel with the tires already on them. Do you like running the stock motor on your farmall or not. I still got my stock motor in the 450 but I am contemplating on putting in a 4bt instead since the local pull has a super antique class. Plus I am tired of messing with this gas motor.

Signature600
11-06-2008, 08:33 AM
I like rules like that really... I still run the factory heavy cast centers on my tractor, it balances pretty darn well as is so I figure best to leave it alone. My tractor is pretty healthy; @ 540 on the PTO it only makes 48hp, but @430 on the PTO it makes 72hp :rockwoot: I still use it in the field and run 87 octane in it too...

Ever think about drilling a couple of your power adjust slots and setting some roll pins or put in some bolts to keep the rims in their place?

I can't get the tractor to make more than 48hp...I'm gonna try and take a look at it this winter and see if I can't try a little harder:D

I'll probably drill the PS rails and bolt them on both sides, or double clamp them. I've got plenty of parts tractors...12 D17's in all:D

If I really wanted to play I have one that was a Power unit for a Cotton Picker...95hp 262CID 6 Cylinder Gas engine in it:D I'd need more tire though;)
Chris

BlackSkyRacing
11-08-2008, 01:27 AM
I can't get the tractor to make more than 48hp...I'm gonna try and take a look at it this winter and see if I can't try a little harder:D

I'll probably drill the PS rails and bolt them on both sides, or double clamp them. I've got plenty of parts tractors...12 D17's in all:D

If I really wanted to play I have one that was a Power unit for a Cotton Picker...95hp 262CID 6 Cylinder Gas engine in it:D I'd need more tire though;)
Chris

I left quite a bit of room for improvement in tuning and such to wake my engine up more yet... I just haven't had to yet :evil

That cotton picker engine sounds fun to say that least...

Signature600
11-08-2008, 07:22 AM
I left quite a bit of room for improvement in tuning and such to wake my engine up more yet... I just haven't had to yet :evil

That cotton picker engine sounds fun to say that least...

Yeah...but it's too new for the rules in the tractor it's in, and it would probably break the pinion if I hooked it anyway.

Chris