What is the max hp I can put on my 2001 7.3? Also what kind of hp do yall think I am putting down right now. I have Ts 6 pos chip, afe stage 2 and a turbo back 4inch straight pipe. Ill be adding a dunrite torque converter along with a transgo tugger shift kit. I was just curious because Id like to try to get more hp out of the motor if it can handle it. Does the 7.3L motors like nitrous?
Max Hp on motor
- Thread starter jyarber
- Start date
hotstik
I Like Zip-Ties
400hp is the max safe power you can run on your model year 7.3L. Your engine has powder metal connecting rods which have a high tendency to fail at higher levels of power.
Currently, your are likely putting down approx. 300 hp to the rear wheels in the highest setting on your chip.
If you are looking for more power, stay away from the drugs. Propane, nitrous, water/meth will cost you more in the long run if you aren't properly set up for them. A bigger turbo, Stage II injectors, and big oil will have you at (or slightly beyond) your max safe horsepower - depending on tuning.
With the trans stuff, you are on the right track. But if you are really into making more power, I would invest in a built trans and be done with worrying about failure. Honestly, a real trans should be one of the first items on the list of anyone who wants to make a lot of power with a 7.3L. Suncoast, BTS, ATS, and John Wood are all great options.
Hope that helps...
Currently, your are likely putting down approx. 300 hp to the rear wheels in the highest setting on your chip.
If you are looking for more power, stay away from the drugs. Propane, nitrous, water/meth will cost you more in the long run if you aren't properly set up for them. A bigger turbo, Stage II injectors, and big oil will have you at (or slightly beyond) your max safe horsepower - depending on tuning.
With the trans stuff, you are on the right track. But if you are really into making more power, I would invest in a built trans and be done with worrying about failure. Honestly, a real trans should be one of the first items on the list of anyone who wants to make a lot of power with a 7.3L. Suncoast, BTS, ATS, and John Wood are all great options.
Hope that helps...
GREGROB
CUMMINGS KILLER
I agree, I'd say around 300 right now.
I'm shooting for low 14's with my truck.
Terminator Oil, and some 180CC singles will hopefully do the trick. That should be ~400 RWHP
IMO it is safer to stay away from mixing Big Oil and a "stage 2". That's why I plan to keep stock nozzles on the injectors and just flow them at 180cc.
I think the atomization will be better (more fuel burned, less smoke, more power, more mpg, more efficiency) and
the stock nozzle will not dump a ton of fuel down low, punishing the rods with high cylinder pressures.
Stage 1 usually = 160-180 cc stock nozzle
Stage 2 usually = 160-180 cc with modded nozzles to flow more
That's my theory anyway. FWIW
I'm shooting for low 14's with my truck.
Terminator Oil, and some 180CC singles will hopefully do the trick. That should be ~400 RWHP
IMO it is safer to stay away from mixing Big Oil and a "stage 2". That's why I plan to keep stock nozzles on the injectors and just flow them at 180cc.
I think the atomization will be better (more fuel burned, less smoke, more power, more mpg, more efficiency) and
the stock nozzle will not dump a ton of fuel down low, punishing the rods with high cylinder pressures.
Stage 1 usually = 160-180 cc stock nozzle
Stage 2 usually = 160-180 cc with modded nozzles to flow more
That's my theory anyway. FWIW
Last edited:
txastuff79
New member
so are you suggesting stage 1 with big oil or stage 2 with no big oil... or?? im very interested in anyones ideas and opinions. i keep going back and forth on what i want to do and am interested in everyonesinfo.
Burner
slow poke
txastuff, what they are saying.........
#1, Get your Automatic transmission built befor you do anything else. Your trans is already running hot and any more power will just blow right threw it. Having gobbs of HP will not do you any good unless it reaches the ground.
.....I'd call SunCoast Converters, just look in the sponsor fourm for their products.
#2, Your engine block can handle a fair amount of power, ok a bunch. Your connecting rods will not do well past about 360 RWHP. If you shatter a rod.....it's most likely all over for the block.
However, if you build the motor up a little bit yo ucan run larger nozzles, bigger injectors. The heavy fuel (ie~ black smoke) will raise the clylinder pressure really high and fast.
So, build the trans & motor, then you could add more fuel and a larger turbo. For 5k or so you could build it almost bullet proof or up to 450+HP without fear of blowing it up.:rockwoot:
#1, Get your Automatic transmission built befor you do anything else. Your trans is already running hot and any more power will just blow right threw it. Having gobbs of HP will not do you any good unless it reaches the ground.
.....I'd call SunCoast Converters, just look in the sponsor fourm for their products.
#2, Your engine block can handle a fair amount of power, ok a bunch. Your connecting rods will not do well past about 360 RWHP. If you shatter a rod.....it's most likely all over for the block.
However, if you build the motor up a little bit yo ucan run larger nozzles, bigger injectors. The heavy fuel (ie~ black smoke) will raise the clylinder pressure really high and fast. So, build the trans & motor, then you could add more fuel and a larger turbo. For 5k or so you could build it almost bullet proof or up to 450+HP without fear of blowing it up.:rockwoot:
hotstik
I Like Zip-Ties
If I had pmr's and was starting from scratch, I would do it in the following order:
1.) Gauges
2.) Intake and Exhaust
3.) Transmission
4.) Chip (from a reputable prgrammer like DP-Tuner or Diesel Innovations)
5.) Regulated Return fuel system
6.) Turbo
7.) Big Oil (Terminator or BTS)
8.) Stage II Injectors
Doing things in that order will cost you the least amount of money in the long run. Also, remember that you will need to have your chip reburned after installing big oil and injectors.
As for the injectors, it's all about tuning. With bad tuning your CP's will be out of control with Stage I's. With good tuning, it is totally safe to run Stage II's with big oil. Let's not forget that Jody Tipton (DP-Tuner) is running BD-code injectors in his PMR engine. Tuning is everything.
1.) Gauges
2.) Intake and Exhaust
3.) Transmission
4.) Chip (from a reputable prgrammer like DP-Tuner or Diesel Innovations)
5.) Regulated Return fuel system
6.) Turbo
7.) Big Oil (Terminator or BTS)
8.) Stage II Injectors
Doing things in that order will cost you the least amount of money in the long run. Also, remember that you will need to have your chip reburned after installing big oil and injectors.
As for the injectors, it's all about tuning. With bad tuning your CP's will be out of control with Stage I's. With good tuning, it is totally safe to run Stage II's with big oil. Let's not forget that Jody Tipton (DP-Tuner) is running BD-code injectors in his PMR engine. Tuning is everything.
GREGROB
CUMMINGS KILLER
txastuff79 said:
IMO, Stage 1's with Big Oil is the way to go. Just make sure you have someone who knows what they are doing in the tuning department. Namely someone who has studied Cylinder Pressures across a wide variety of setups, and knows how to keep power relatively safe.
I know Jody Tipton at www.dp-tuner.com has done this testing. I use his tunes and they are AWESOME, and it does give me some peace of mind knowing he tunes my truck, FWIW. Whoever you use, just make sure you discuss with them your mods, goals, and intended uses of the truck. Make sure they ask the right questions, and give the right answers.
Jody has a PMR truck with B-codes right now, pretty sure he's knocking on the door of 400 RWHP, lol.
Of course the requisite supporting mods should be in place as well. Fortify the stock tranny at the least, and be ready to replace it. Some have gotten by with a converter and valve body on a stock tranny for a while, but don't count on it.
Also understand there is no "safe" hp increase, period. If you depend on this truck daily, play it safe and be happy with a well tuned 300-350hp.
Just my opinions
GREGROB
CUMMINGS KILLER
Oh yeah, as for Stage 2's. There are a few PMR trucks making 400+ on big injectors, but not stage 2's. You could probably do it with them, but if you are gonna skip Big Oil, go with something like 530's or B codes and tune them down to your HP level.
Although you're more likely to have a smokey, hotter-running, ultimately more inneficient engine that way, as opposed to Big Oil and smaller nozzles on the injectors for nearly smoke-free HP of the same level.
Although you're more likely to have a smokey, hotter-running, ultimately more inneficient engine that way, as opposed to Big Oil and smaller nozzles on the injectors for nearly smoke-free HP of the same level.
GREGROB
CUMMINGS KILLER
Forged rods were in the PSD from 1994.5 until 08/2000 supposedly.
If your engine MFG date is later than 08/2000, you probably have PMR's.
There is also a serial number you can check, but I don't remember it. Supposedly they used PMR's for a while, ran out and went back to forged, then all PMR's by 2001.
The way to tell for sure is to remove the inspection plug and look at the end of the rod. On forged rods, you have rod studs with nuts on them.
On a PMR, you have rod bolts that thread into the rod to hold the cap on.
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/gallery2/v/tech/inspection_hole/
It's doubtful that you have forged, but worth a look!
If your engine MFG date is later than 08/2000, you probably have PMR's.
There is also a serial number you can check, but I don't remember it. Supposedly they used PMR's for a while, ran out and went back to forged, then all PMR's by 2001.
The way to tell for sure is to remove the inspection plug and look at the end of the rod. On forged rods, you have rod studs with nuts on them.
On a PMR, you have rod bolts that thread into the rod to hold the cap on.
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/gallery2/v/tech/inspection_hole/
It's doubtful that you have forged, but worth a look!
GREGROB said:
My MFG date was 10/2000. Can you pull that inspection plug while the motor is in the truck still and see which you have? Any way to find out the way with the serial number? If I do have the forged rods could I add more mods and dont have to worry about blowing motor?
bbunting
Black Widow Diesel
yesjyarber said:
not that I know ofjyarber said:
jyarber said:
yes-then you can run some more aggressive tuning
In a PMR truck, we make 433/1070 with a Spearco intercooler, Turbonetics replacement turbo, hybrid 530 injectors, Suncoast trans. Truck run 94 MPH in the 1/4 on 35' with a lift @ 7500 lbs. If the truck had forged rods, we could make more with the same parts.
bbunting said:
So those numbers are with PMRs? Is that 433 to the ground? I think Ill just add a little bit of nitrous on mine because it wont be used a lot just mainly at the track. Could I do that on my truck? Could I just get a a kit and bolt it on or would i need more then that?
