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View Full Version : Turning up 4320 pump


Caseman
02-21-2009, 09:31 AM
I am wanting to turn up the pump on my 4320. Can somone give me some pointers on doing this? Never turned one up before.

Caseman
02-22-2009, 04:13 PM
Anybody know how to do this?

Caseman
02-22-2009, 08:57 PM
Im not talking about the compact tractor. Its a row crop tractor. The year is 1972 if that helps.

cumminspuller
02-22-2009, 09:47 PM
I'm not positive on this but i think you have to pull the top cover off of the pump and there is a stud with a jam nut on it. I'm not sure for sure. I had a 4520 and sent the pump to schied and had a external fuel screw put on it and thats what it was. They are the same pumps to my knowledge. Sorry I can't help much.

RSieck
02-22-2009, 10:49 PM
I'll try to find out from my buddies... All I know is that our 4320 is putting out 150hp with 9500 hrs on it, a the motor has never been touched!!! :D I wanna crank it up a little more and pull it at some of the local brush pulls

BlackSkyRacing
02-23-2009, 10:16 AM
It should have a Roosa-Master DB2 pump... there still really isn't much that can be done while it is still on the engine. There are shims inside the pump that limit fuel delivery as well as a "leaf" spring that also limits it. Both can be taken care of, but the pump has to come apart for that.

There is a little that can be done by tightening up the screw that puts tension on the leaf spring, adjusting the smoke screw, and advancing the timing. But that can get complicated as well, but with some patience and a little lost diesel fuel (some will spill out of the pump) it can be done by just about anybody.

Where are you located? Maybe a local shop can help you out. We've played with a few and the PTO clutch on most started to slip around 180 and there was a lot left in them... The limiting factor is the TO4 turbo, pretty hard to push any more than 230hp out of them.

Caseman
02-23-2009, 04:42 PM
Well its got a rebuilt pump on it. it says standyne on the side at least i think thats how you spell it. Ill get a picture of the pump tomorrow cause i dont think there is a cover on the top of the pump. There is one on the side of it but i pulled it off yesterday and there was no screw with a jam nut on it so ill get a pic up tomorrow. There is a stud on the side with a jam nut on it and it has orange paint on it dont know if thats the time screw or not. If anyone could give me step by step instructions that would help alot.
Thanks

BlackSkyRacing
02-24-2009, 10:27 AM
Well its got a rebuilt pump on it. it says standyne on the side at least i think thats how you spell it. Ill get a picture of the pump tomorrow cause i dont think there is a cover on the top of the pump. There is one on the side of it but i pulled it off yesterday and there was no screw with a jam nut on it so ill get a pic up tomorrow. There is a stud on the side with a jam nut on it and it has orange paint on it dont know if thats the time screw or not. If anyone could give me step by step instructions that would help alot.
Thanks

The plate you took off on the side was more than likely the timing window... Yes it is a stanadyne pump, same as a Roosa-Master (the old name for Stanadyne)... Don't go under that top cover, that is part of your governor and can be a PITA sometimes. The stud that you speak of is the "smoke screw" I previously mentioned. It will gain you maybe 10-20hp but that is it. Anything more than that will require going into the pump.

BTW what are the numbers on the side of the pump?

Should be something like DB2633-XXXX the DB2 says that it is a two roller pump, the 6 says it's for a 6 cylinder and the 33 (or whatever other number) says how big the pumping plungers are (in hundredths of an inch). This can also help decide just how much power potential is in the pump...

Caseman
02-24-2009, 04:13 PM
Ill check tomorrow and see what the numbers are. How much can i turn the smoke screw and do it turn it clockwise or counter clockwise?

BlackSkyRacing
02-24-2009, 04:21 PM
Ill check tomorrow and see what the numbers are. How much can i turn the smoke screw and do it turn it clockwise or counter clockwise?

Counter clockwise.... Turn it out until it has about three threads holding and lock it back down.

Caseman
02-24-2009, 04:31 PM
Theres nothing else i have to do to the pump?

BlackSkyRacing
02-24-2009, 04:39 PM
Theres nothing else i have to do to the pump?

Nope... Nothing else you can do without taking it apart. If you're serious about it there's nothing a little $$$ can't solve... Those 4320 have decent injectors on them, we can get you to that 230hp mark pretty easy.

EDIT: I take that back, you can bump the timing a little, but that still won't get you much.

Caseman
02-24-2009, 05:25 PM
Alrite thanks

Caseman
02-25-2009, 06:24 PM
Well i turned it up today but the stud would only go so far then it would stop so it must have some thing on the back of it so it wont go all the way out. So i just pulled the stud out as far as it would go.

BlackSkyRacing
02-26-2009, 07:07 AM
Well i turned it up today but the stud would only go so far then it would stop so it must have some thing on the back of it so it wont go all the way out. So i just pulled the stud out as far as it would go.

Yeah some have that stop some don't... PM sent BTW

BlackSkyRacing
02-26-2009, 12:30 PM
Just a little evidence of our pump work.... 127hp (on a calibrated dyno not a dealer dyno) on the stock 404cid. Naturally aspirated of course... More than enough fuel there to make 230hp with a turbo (the smoke screw is turned almost all the way IN). :Cheer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZn0cVENgy4

Caseman
02-26-2009, 05:18 PM
Is there anthing else done to that tractor except some pump work?

BlackSkyRacing
02-26-2009, 06:11 PM
Is there anthing else done to that tractor except some pump work?

Yeah... being that it is a Naturally Aspirated engine we had to get more air in to burn the extra fuel we got with the pump. Mild cam (normally doesn't turn over 2500 so we cam'ed it for peak torque at about 2100), mild port work, valve job and seats set to our specs (stock valves) and we raised the pop pressure on the injectors to 100psi over the high-side spec (didn't want to go any higher on the stock injection pump drive shaft). Oh yeah, put a 4320 intake manifold on it too cause the stock 4000 intake sucks balls.

But yours having a turbo and much nicer injectors, the pump work alone would do the trick for you :rockwoot:

EDIT: Forgot to mention we raised the compression ratio to squeeze every little bit we could out of it and ran a blend of animal fat bio-diesel for better cetane (not too much though cause #2 still has more heat potential).