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View Full Version : 2nd gen dodge - dropping weight, where & what


Hurley
06-25-2010, 02:21 PM
For all you 2nd gen guys - where are the best/most common places to drop weight? My perspective is from a street driven truck; Here's what I can think of:


- Interior parts (headliner/carpet/speakers/seat swap)
- gasser radiator? Looks like the mounting holes are common across the models
- steering swap
- front suspension swap
- What about the front bumper? mounts?
- Inner fenders (I'm holding on to those until i can avoid driving it in the rain)
- rear mount battery (I'm running a single Group 31)
-

Hurley
06-25-2010, 02:41 PM
http://rm-indy.com/weightreduction.htm


I know many of these are logical, I guess it comes down to what I can/want to live without

Big Blue24
06-25-2010, 05:20 PM
You can save a lot of weight running one of those carbon matrix batteries, they're reasonably priced at $100 to $130. Last heavy lead/acid truck battery I bought was like $90.

Did you already remove the ac system? The compressor has to weigh 50 lbs.

Hurley
06-25-2010, 05:26 PM
oh yeah, I've pulled the compressor/condenser/hardware forward of the firewall.


From the looks of the extra metal on the bumper, I'm pretty sure i can remove about 10# or more by hogging it out & replacing the factory mounts. (I remember racinduallie's posts from somewhere about this stuff)

bmarlatt
07-05-2010, 07:12 PM
Run low on fuel...

9712valve
07-05-2010, 08:12 PM
lighter wheels and tires.

97 D-Tec
07-05-2010, 09:05 PM
For all you 2nd gen guys - where are the best/most common places to drop weight? My perspective is from a street driven truck; Here's what I can think of:


- Interior parts (headliner/carpet/speakers/seat swap)
- gasser radiator? Looks like the mounting holes are common across the models
- steering swap
- front suspension swap
- What about the front bumper? mounts?
- Inner fenders (I'm holding on to those until i can avoid driving it in the rain)
- rear mount battery (I'm running a single Group 31)
-
why would you bother with the radiator is it going to be a significant enough amount of weight where your actually going to gain something? .. the inner fenders i dont see the point what if something comes up on the track (some drunk ppl have a tendency to throw things) or a tire shreds? And if you do decide to remove the back ones.. you just lost weight over the rear tires. Fiberglass front fenders, and hood would be pretty sweet with the front suspension and steering swap but they dont mix with the word cheap. As for the bumper idea. I really dont see how 10lbs is going to lower your times in the 1/4

rattlindodge
07-06-2010, 12:27 AM
The t-case skid plate weighs a few pounds, its all steel.

ttcfan4476
07-06-2010, 06:33 AM
I really don't see how 10lbs is going to lower your times in the 1/4


weight lost is time gained

TMONEYDIESEL
07-06-2010, 06:47 AM
The t-case skid plate weighs a few pounds, its all steel.

Think hurleys is a 2wd

9712valve
07-06-2010, 11:41 AM
oh yeah, I've pulled the compressor/condenser/hardware forward of the firewall.


From the looks of the extra metal on the bumper, I'm pretty sure i can remove about 10# or more by hogging it out & replacing the factory mounts. (I remember racinduallie's posts from somewhere about this stuff)

theres two side support brackets you can take off the front bumper, theres alot of little metal things you can take off that will add up......

Hurley
07-06-2010, 12:57 PM
^there we go

Bear in mind this thread was geared to 2nd gen dodges in general, not specifically my scenario-

- I've a 16 gallon fuel cell, so no issue there
- wheels weigh 32# each, im thinking im ~70# a corner with tires
- the smaller radiator would also allow for better intercooler end-tank options (just for consideration)
- Like I've said im keeping the inner fenders for debris/rain considerations

9712valve
07-06-2010, 01:53 PM
i would say dropping the bumper and hitch would be a good idea, but you have already done that from what it looks like, different mirrors, lighter and less drag compared to tow mirrors. I would even go as far a fiberglass front bumper cover as your front bumper. cut out bracing from under your hood. remove your hood latch and install locking pins

Hurley
07-06-2010, 02:03 PM
Here's basically what my rear-end looks like (I added a stock spare tire in the rear cavity after the pic was taken). I've a 40# hand fabricated fuel cell cover and a minimalistic exhaust.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3171/2730920220_71045dce20.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2761/4541497457_c708e25908.jpg

crabbelle
07-06-2010, 02:11 PM
Gut the interior and make your own dash. two aluminum racing seats. go with a mustang II rack and pinon front end, plexi glass rear window, get a new bed without the spray in bed liner,i know i just gutted alot of my wiring in the engine bay and i must have took off 10-15lbs of wiring. how does that truck not bend in half?

roachie
07-06-2010, 02:20 PM
One thing I need to know if is you plan on street driving this thing after it's diet? If I went full strip on one a yugo would pose a threat to it's integrity.


Bumper: locate a 99+ sport, after trimming mine the whole thing weighs 30# max. And I didn't Swiss cheese the brackets.
Seats: they weigh 50-60# easy. EACH
Hood: easy 60+, it is the only thing I would recomend to replace with Fiberglass

Fenders: Dont waste time or money on glass. Cut the inner structure out leaving the outer skin. It has some bolt holes that will still attach it.

There is more but them it's more or less a tube chassis deal.

GOT-Torque
07-06-2010, 02:27 PM
I think I lost over 100 lbs going from a stack in the bed to a hoodstack. Center console is about 50lbs or more.

I think you could fab a trans crossmember with alot less steel than the factory one in there. And make is easier to drop the transmission too...

Hurley
07-06-2010, 02:29 PM
how does that truck not bend in half?

I've put oveer 7k miles of street driving on it with no issues.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3152/2691706878_d31c0822b0_b.jpg

(3) 1/2" plates welded into the "C" of the frame, and the tubes passing through each.


It would be street driven after the diet, so integrity is definitely necessary. I know it's always an argument between dropping 50# or adding 50hp, but my approach is - "why not?" If I can drop some weight in different areas, I will.

And by street driven I mean drive it at least 80 miles each week.

EDIT: center console has been gone

9712valve
07-06-2010, 02:38 PM
fab up some kinda jeep half doors those are light are fawk, hell just run it like a jeep no doors, who needs those things anyways.....













































jk doors are important

Hurley
07-06-2010, 02:43 PM
daw c'mon

Lower
07-06-2010, 08:17 PM
Why mount the shocks and your bottom links on the outside of the frame? You can gain assloads of room if you move everything inbound.
My project is a 1500 but from really rough measurements i can run 15" wide tires without tubs and still have around 2" of room on each side of the tires.

Hurley
07-06-2010, 08:27 PM
My original design intentions were to run the lowest rate coil spring and achieve the maximum amount of anti-roll without adding a rear sway bar - therefore placing the springs closer to the tires. Probably not the best approach, but it works for my uses.

Dont worry though, when the time comes I'll cut that **** off and redo as necessary.

As well, I can add at least 2" of backspacing to what I have now

Hurley
07-06-2010, 08:47 PM
^ Clarification to the above post, 10.5" wide tires which are currently flush with the backing plate on the brake assembly. There is 6" clear between coilover and tire (which is more than distance from tire to inside of wheel well ~4")

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4075/4769389937_2a7d2c2db9.jpg

Lower
07-06-2010, 08:53 PM
Not knocking anything you done. If its working don't change it. DD and shaving weight usually don't work in the same sentence.
I can't say much as yours is driving, mine still has a gasser in it lol.

Hurley
07-06-2010, 09:01 PM
No problem with the conversation - I get odd comments good & bad, but it always helps to clarify.

I think my bottom line is moving the 60# battery and transmission cooler to the bed for better distribution over the rear.

I also just realized I've put closer to 13k miles on the back-half

roachie
07-06-2010, 10:02 PM
Well, if you going to drive that much. Don't chop the fenders down to the skin. It removes all of your crash protection.

Glass hood
ditch that latch and springs
loose the fender braces near the cowl (you can cut that out too)
sport bumper
cheese the brackets
inner fenders aren't worth the time (30# total)
Seats/console
rear glass


That's about all I can think of that is simple. I've used aluminum on every little bracket for the puller just to give me few pounds that are movable.

Hurley
07-06-2010, 10:11 PM
^ I appreciate the input!

Bosshawg600
07-07-2010, 12:46 PM
Many pullers swear that you can loose 200#'s by gutting the dash.........

BigErk77
07-07-2010, 12:53 PM
Maybe if this is your dash....

ride42
07-07-2010, 01:08 PM
Does anyone have actual numbers between the weight difference of the fiberglass hood and the steel hood? I would think a CF hood would be your best bet..they are out there and there has been a few threads here about them.

LReiff
07-07-2010, 02:13 PM
Maybe if this is your dash....

That briefcase has to weigh a few hundred...LOL

Hurley
07-13-2010, 09:14 AM
Front sway bar & equipment! forgot about that one

for anyone that has ditched the front sway bar on a 2wd, did it drive like complete ass afterward ( i assume it would lean pretty bad)

Nathan@XSPower
07-13-2010, 09:33 AM
If it is for track use only I know of a way of cutting about 60lbs easy!!! Change out that group 31 with a D375 (15lbs battery). Wouldn't be something you would want for every day driving, but for the track it is cheap weight loss.

Or if it is a track only truck go to 16V and run the lithium battery. That will cut you a total of around 71lbs.

Hurley
07-13-2010, 10:43 AM
This thing's a driver - gotta pimp that 'C' somehow!!! ha!

Also, depending on traction woes remounting the battery in the rear will give me some additional tractive force.

Big Blue24
07-15-2010, 03:54 PM
The other day I picked up 200 lbs of sand in the Junker Drag Truck and stacked it right against the tail gate. I thought for sure it would make a difference on the way home....... minor difference at best. I could still spin them freely 1,2, and 3rd. It was about 105* degrees outside and I was running aired down 285 all terrains but I thought for sure the sand would prevent spinning in 3rd gear.

Hurley
07-15-2010, 06:54 PM
400# in my bed puts me on the bump stops!

seriously though, it's worth shuffling weight if at all possible

Supershafts
07-19-2010, 09:55 PM
Lose the 2 pc shaft and get a 1 pc AL shaft and that'll equal about the same as leaving the bed off the truck in performance

npe3484
08-06-2010, 02:13 PM
I'm trying to slim down my 2nd gen 4x4 ext. cab long bed pig. Here are some weights of random parts that have come off...


OEM Rear Bumper - 57.8 lbs
OEM Transfer Case Skid Plate - 14.8 lbs
Spare 265/75R16 AT & Steel Wheel - 75.2 lbs


That's a simple 147.8 lbs to lose in under 10 minutes. I'll add more weights as I carve off the excess.

Hurley
08-06-2010, 02:54 PM
I had forgotten how heavy the center seat on the 40/20/40 split bench is until i tried to move mine out of the way in the basement last night - my guesstimate is 40# (will verify later while im doing the drinky drinky)

redneckroot
08-07-2010, 12:00 AM
I would get a cutoff wheel and go after all bolts that stick out past the nuts. I'd run a newer sport bumper and make my own minimal inner bumper to support it. I'd gut the inner fenders and build some aluminum ones. I'd also get rid of any wiring that I didn't need. Replace any glass that I could with Plexiglas. I would also go with a lift off fiberglass, cf or gutted stock hood, it would allow you to take off the hinges and latch. When we use to do our race cars we would put them on the scales and start gutting and cutting without a whole lot of messing around we could easily get 200lbs. Anything that you can get out of the front is a good thing. I'd even consider moving the engine back under the dash farther to help increase your rear percentage.

7inchstack
08-07-2010, 01:02 AM
cruise control vacum thingy has to be atleast 5 pounds plus all the linkage, will also open up that area alot. everything else has pretty much been mentioned, unless you wanna go further into.

Hurley
08-07-2010, 05:03 PM
Cruise control is gone (ditched that before I shortened the wheelbase), so is windshield washer fluid reservior. Heater grid equipment & circuitry are gone as well.

npe3484
08-07-2010, 05:40 PM
Cruise control is gone (ditched that before I shortened the wheelbase), so is windshield washer fluid reservior. Heater grid equipment & circuitry are gone as well.

Did you happen to weigh any of that as it came out?

Also, what's your current weight?

redneckroot
08-07-2010, 10:20 PM
If you want to go even farther, gut the firewall and build an aluminum one. Have you had your truck on any scales yet? I'd be interested to see what it is at each corner. If not find someone around you that races and see if they'd scale it for you.

Hurley
08-08-2010, 09:24 AM
Havent weighed it yet, nor have I weighed any of the parts; most of the piddly stuff I chunked when it was removed.

roachie
08-08-2010, 10:40 AM
Firewall is a bad ideal unless you have a promod level cage.

If I make it to that dyno event I'll show you what you can and cant cut on the fenders. Same on the bed. I would recommend you cut the bed down to nothing more than the outer skins and a aluminum floor/tubs.

Hurley
08-08-2010, 03:49 PM
Cool deal.

RCP Diesel
08-08-2010, 03:59 PM
ditching the 3 factory seats and sliders going to non reclining corbeaus lost me ~90 lbs (used some aluminum angle iron brackets bolted to the factory mounts on the floor and to the seats, took a little bit to get them aligned perfectly)

The seats are for sale too....

npe3484
08-08-2010, 07:10 PM
I took 7.2 lbs of wiring out of my engine bay today! All of it was leftover from the previous owner's snowplow setup.

Hurley
08-08-2010, 07:35 PM
ditching the 3 factory seats and sliders going to non reclining corbeaus lost me ~90 lbs (used some aluminum angle iron brackets bolted to the factory mounts on the floor and to the seats, took a little bit to get them aligned perfectly)

The seats are for sale too....

Baja's or...? And I assume the factory seats are the ones for sale, right-



Factory center seat/console from the 40/20/40 split bench weighs in at 32# with bracketry.

SSpeeDEMONSS
08-08-2010, 07:54 PM
dont know why i thought about it but would an aftermarket steering column and wheel weigh less?

Garrett

roachie
08-08-2010, 07:57 PM
Alot less. But then it gets into a legal thing.

Removing the wheel and therefor the airbag would prevent the sale of it as a street vehicle. (technically).

That column weighs a ton

Hurley
08-08-2010, 08:01 PM
Would be a significant weight reduction, but illegal for a street truck. (reference Racinduallie's thread i mentioned earlier, he weighed the removed assembly)

I'm liking these:http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/gta_lo_back/

RCP Diesel
08-08-2010, 08:59 PM
Baja's or...? And I assume the factory seats are the ones for sale, right-



Factory center seat/console from the 40/20/40 split bench weighs in at 32# with bracketry.

the corbeaus are for sale I will get you some pics if you are interested

roachie
08-08-2010, 09:17 PM
Would be a significant weight reduction, but illegal for a street truck. (reference Racinduallie's thread i mentioned earlier, he weighed the removed assembly)

I'm liking these:http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/gta_lo_back/


Its not illegal to have, just if you sell the truck.

RCP Diesel
08-08-2010, 09:32 PM
These are the seats I have for sale

Corbeau: Baja Ultra (http://www.corbeau.com/products/fixed_back_seats/baja_ultra/)

in black vinyl/cloth

Hurley
08-08-2010, 10:04 PM
Its not illegal to have, just if you sell the truck.

It's illegal on the federal level to remove an airbag safety system from a vehicle that is factory equipped-right?

roachie
08-08-2010, 10:11 PM
Negative, you can remove it or disable it. It is illegal if you sell the vehicle with a non functioning restraint system. Or if you have an airbag light on and attempt to hide it from the buyer.


This is from and SRS certification class I attended last fall. Actually I think you can sell it with them gone provided the buyer is informed. (written form and signed by them for legal reasons)

Hurley
08-08-2010, 10:17 PM
hmmmm, any online docs i can read? no offense I just like to see the supporting documentation on this type of thing.

roachie
08-08-2010, 10:38 PM
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1662108&page=2



Originally Posted by NHTSA
The need to alter or remove federally required safety equipment poses a problem because there is a statutory provision prohibiting making such features inoperative (49 U.S.C. section 30122).1 While that prohibition does not apply to vehicle owners, it does apply to modifications made by the types of commercial entities that modify vehicles for persons with disabilities

In other works, if you aint a dealer, hack away.

However:
NC law.
§ 20‑136.2. Air bag installation.

It shall be unlawful for any person, firm, or corporation to knowingly install or reinstall any object in lieu of an air bag, other than an air bag that was designed in accordance with federal safety regulations for the make, model, and year of vehicle, as part of a vehicle inflation restraint system. Any person, firm, or corporation violating this section shall be guilty of a Class 1 misdemeanor. (2003‑258, s. 3.)

Although it does not say that they cannot be made inoperable. Its aimed preventing you from installing a dummy bag.

The issue comes with your ins company. May want to give them a call and see what they say.

Hurley
08-08-2010, 10:48 PM
Right on.

smokin weasel
08-11-2010, 06:22 PM
what dose it weigh now

Hurley
08-12-2010, 07:35 AM
Havent weighed it yet, nor have I weighed any of the parts; most of the piddly stuff I chunked when it was removed.


from earlier

smokin weasel
08-12-2010, 08:42 AM
ya how much did you take off it

Hurley
08-12-2010, 09:54 AM
i dont know weight wise?

pockets85
09-10-2010, 04:41 AM
not the cheapest option, but a 9" rear with a plate steel housing should shed a few pounds.