New motor
Just finished up my motor build for my 2.5 truck. Started plumbing the fuel system yesterday. Hopefully have it running this weekend.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f47c5dac0a.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c69bc46fe6.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2c66b4d543.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ff5f1c9454.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...dab3993bc3.jpg Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk |
Looks great! What's going to be done for the coolant bypass?
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Thanks man. I was running a boiler relief valve and routing it into the upper radiator hose but I think I'm gonna eliminate the relief for this year. I added the relief in because the motor wasn't heating up to normal temps.
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Gotcha. Any particular reason for eliminating it? Was it just not necessary for the motor at the time or just simply not needed now with an electric water pump? What kept the motor from coming up to normal operating temps?
I'm curious because I'm doing the same for mine. Running a PRV out of the rear plate to the thermostat housing. This is a daily driver and a somewhat low RPM range though and I'm pretty easy on it until about when the thermostat opens. I'm just adding it as a precaution. http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pskhefqilx.jpg http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psghrjx9ra.jpg |
Basically with it plumbed with no valve it just wouldn't come up to operating temp, and then wheni put the valve in place I was seeing over 200* just idling. I'm not sure with the valve closed and the coolant just sitting at the back and not moving was causing the gauge to read weird? But as soon as I opened the valve it'd drop back down to 150ish.
Reason I'm eliminating it now is because I have electric fans, electric water pump and I now only let the truck warm up until the needle starts to move. Once the needle moves I turn the fans and pump on and at that time I'm usually pulling onto the track. I'm also running a gutted thermostat this year. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk |
Here's the valve I was running.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b5cc68d2d0.jpg Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk |
What was that set for? Regardless, if it stayed closed, seeing the 200* temps you did would be as if there were no changes to the system; no relief or bypass whatsoever.
I have a Watts 530C that many others have used. It's calibrated and adjustable from 50-175psi. Everyone I've seen installed was set to its lowest setting, 50psi. |
It was set at 50psi. I believe it was opening when going down the track but idling for awhile would make the temps increase.
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Looks awesome! Can't wait to hear that thing sing!
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Nice work, looks great!
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Thanks guys!
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nice looking engine
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Bumping for updates on this nice engine!
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Motor is running, cam is broke in. Fuel system is all plumbed and what not. Power steering pump was leaking and alternator wasn't working so replacing that stuff tomorrow along with the oil. Hoping to make a test pull with it Monday.
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Will post videos of the pulls I make with it this year
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d422d92c6f.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...23e56023ea.jpg
Here's the results of the first pull. 60ft out and snapped a rear axle shaft. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk |
I'd say it was producing some torque!
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Here's a video of my first 3 hooks at a test an tune pull. Got some tuning to do and found a bunch of boost leaks around the heater grid delete and intake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=na0mNZ1gLpY |
Heres the video of the first two points hooks. Crappy sound quality for some reason. Found a bad injector and boost leaks after my test and tune so shes running a little better now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSh0-0LgmMw |
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