I'm stumped! No oil pressure
 

So I'm trying to finish the installation of new spinny-things and as part of the install, I had to relocate the oil filter using one of the Cummins remote oil filter cooler cover-plates.

The cover-plate is just like that shown in the following image . . .

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...pshamsdupf.png



The '93 12v OEM cooler and associated gasket are exactly like that shown in the image. As such, I simply swapped the OEM filter cover-plate with the remote filter cover-plate.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...pszxjisurg.jpg



I now have no oil pressure. I've gone as far as removing the remote oil filter and have nothing there, removed the oil pressure regulator plug and spring and no oil pressure there . . . .

One strange thing is: I can keep the fuel OFF, and spin the engine with the starter and the oil pressure will rise up to normal. But as soon as I turn on the fuel and the engine runs, the oil pressure drops to zero.

Please, I'm MOST confident the oil pressure sensor and gauge works. I get no oil to the turbos with the engine running. Spin the engine with the starter, and I get oil to the turbos.


WTH!?



http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps0kjssma1.jpg

I'm assuming you've checked with a mechanical gauge? Possibly an air pocket that needs to get worked out.


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Again, I can remove an oil feedline from a turbo and spin the engine with the starter, and I get plenty of oil. The dash gauge rises to the normal oil pressure reading. If I let the engine start and run, the oil pressure drops to ZERO and the feed to the turbos stops.

It seems there might have been a fella on here that had a similar problem (Been using the search feature and saw a couple of references to such).


I'm about 98% certain that gasket between the cover-plate and oil cooler is correct. That being said, there's three or so different gaskets that go there in different engines. In my case, my oil cooler has only two holes toward the bottom of it's plate and they match the gasket in use. I say that because there's apparently other similar gaskets but they sport three holes there.

I keep going back to that image above and think i've got the right gasket.

. . . . . it'll be something stupid (that I've done no doubt), but this is pissing me off big-time as I've spent WAY too much time making sure everything's as it should be.


I'm hoping someone here is running the same remote filter thingy and knows what gasket might go under it and will comment (there are members here, who have posted about the same cover-plate including pics of such).

Is your oil bypass valve the proper one for your truck? Maybe it's only seeing 40psi when the starter is cranking at a lower rpm than idle and then seeing 75-100psi at idle once ford and opening the bypass?

Drasko

This particular remote oil filter cover-plate does NOT have the internal oil filter bypass-valve (that's expected to be in the remote filter-head).

That' being said, the oil-pressure regulator components (piston, associated spring and plug) are identical to that found in the OEM cover-plate. I swapped them thinking the same, with no change.

The wife asked if I was low on oil . . . . NO! It's at the top line of the "safe" zone on the stick.

CompD member OnVacation talks about this cover-plate in this thread . . oil filter relocation: pictures... - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

No mention of associated gaskets or issues . .

So is something dead headed?

I beg to differ. Items 5,3,10, and 11 look like a bypass and yours looks to match the image.
I could be wrong, i haven't looked at the remote units personally but it sure looks like it has one.

As per that thread I mention above, it might be best that I contact CompD member Snedge (?) as he may have access to this stuff and is better informed about such.

You are correct, I thought you might have been talking about the oil filter bypass-valve. This remote cover-plate does not have the oil filter bypass. Just the oil pressure regulator.

If there is, it's something intermittent.

Try shimming the spring on the regulator. Im betting its opening up. Also put a mechanical gauge on so you can see if this helps.

FWIW:

Sorry, guess i missed that part lol.

Carefully compare the passages on your old oil filter head assembly and the new oil filter head assembly, I'll bet you quickly find your issue.

Your triple setup is slick as chit, I hope you find your problem soon. After you do please post more info and pics of the triples.

Any chance were can get pictures of the back side of the base and gasket you used?

Problem with the pickup tube possibly?

At low RPM (cranking or idle) the pump picks up oil just fine. While the system is demanding a larger volume of oil it sucks air and/or the pump cavitates?

I think the oil pump is whacked, as in the rotor assembly is now loose on its driving shaft. Initially tight enough to spin the engine with the starter and develop oil pressure, but as soon as the engine runs, the rotor slips on the shaft and oil pressure goes to zero.

I've seen images of the pumps and apparently at one time or another, the rotor is keyed to he shaft. Then there are those where things appear to not be keyed.

Keyed to the shaft . . .

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...psvghn3jhh.jpg



NOT keyed to the shaft . . . .

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3sfdcw3z.jpg



Spinning things over this morning presents with no oil pressure at all. :bang


I spoke with Jeff (Snedge) and he's thinking I have the wrong gasket between the cover and cooler.



Just thinking out loud in type: It seems to me that a poorly chosen gasket might present with way too low/high pressure where as the proper oil pressure (with starter) vs no oil pressure while running, . . . is the pump.

Poot!

FWIW- on my engine I have an autometer electric Oil Pressure gauge that reads 25-100. Spinning with the starter it barely jumps the needle and doesn't even get to the 25 mark, as soon as it starts to hit on ether or fuel and the speed picks up the oil pressure jumps up. Cold 20w-50 cen-pe-co oil registers nearly 100psi for about 2-3 minutes before warming up and settling in at a steady 70psi.