Ahale's 94 Build thread

ahale2772

ahale2772

New member
Starting a build thread for my 94 single cab DRW. 210,000 miles on it right now, bone stock besideds a trans that has been rebuild, and upgraded in a few places.

Just parted out my 89, had alot of fun with that truck and it was quick for what it was, basically just rotted out to the point that it was not worth sinking anymore time or money into it. goodies that i'm planning on grabbing of the motor are as follows...

63/68/.91 T4
T4 steed speed Comp.
Hamilton 188
ARP 2000's
60lb springs

The goal for the 94 Is a drivable 500-550. I had ordered a set of 5x18's for the 89 a while back that I have switched to ppump bodies and spray. (yeah, probably a bit big for what I need)

The 94 trans has a mild build to it, a "surecure" shift kit, red clutches and bands, some crappy recon converter with a billet cover, a big external fluid filter, and a seperate electric fan cooler.

trans....

I have a local guy who is going to help build the trans up a bit more, what ive been told so far that to be comfortable at say 500 hp, a nice input, tripple disk converter, valvebody, and flexplate are a good place to start. open to any other suggestions on parts I should invest in to keep the trans alive at 500 horse.

160 pump mods...

I'm thinking, 4k's, fuel plate rack plug, and DV's (again, looking for opinions here)

I'm wondering what it takes for fuel pressure to keep the stock lift pump at the 500 hp range? I hear lots about the Torctek return regulators? different spring in the lift pump?

I need to figure out what combo of an exhaust I need, want to do a nice stainess system, but need to figure out what kind of downpipe I need for the flange on my 63 (stock marmon)


I know this stuff has all been hashed over before, but im looking for advice from people who have had setups like this before. I'm doing all the work besides the trans myself, and I'm handy when it comes to playing with 12v's, but clearly i have not tried every trick out there...

the truck as it sits now, bought it as a bit of a rot box for 3000$, have since done the cab coners, rockers, fenders... needs paint, but all around a nice reliable truck. Built this bumper for it last week

551DB4B4-4360-4AC1-A725-4C3DC67084EB-3063-000002E97C195F9F.jpg
 
Meh I'd run a bit larger of a compressor/tubine but if you really dial it in you might get 550 out of it. That .91 housing is going to slow things down to the point that you might as well go larger and deal with 100 rpm later in spool. 5x.018s are gonna be hot.

I'd let the guy build it considering he knows how to add clutches and keep the tolerance however, try to get a reputable valve body in there. It's really the conductor of the transmission and will make average components hold lots of power.
 
I have been told the same on the valve body, I just dont know where to buy from, Ive heard TRE makes a great valvebody

going to use the 63 for now, it should be fine for 5-550, the 5x18s are big but I will tune out as much as i need

as of right now, I need to find the best prices on a flexplate, converter, and input
 
just picked a brand new DTT valve body up from a buddy for 200$... score or still buy a different one?

I going to call Goerend anyways
 
You could try trading for a smaller injector. Looks like it will be a nice truck. Let me know if you need anything.
 
You could put a 48RE pump in it, a billet input and a valve body with higher pressures to keep the clutches from slipping.
Also, a quality torque converter with more than one disc is probably a good idea. I toasted my DTT single disc after 75k at 400hp.
 
I'm thinking a tripple disk from DPC, I can get a pretty decent price on one, 1000$ shipped.

flexplate and input are my biggest unknowns now, I dont know who makes what, and who just sells the same product.
 
TCS makes an Aermet high strength steel input. Did some snooping on the material and it makes 300M look like playdough.

Laminated stock flex plates are cheap and very strong.
 
My DTT valve body was pretty good, 2nd gear lock up, however dealing with DTT is a pain. I've got a Garmon one now.

-Dustin-
 
Looks like its gonna be a nice little build, But I think you could obtain the same HP numbers by running a 5x.014 instead of the 5.018's and you me able to have more streetable fun power with the 63/68. If you are going to run the 5x.018's I'd really thing about a larger turbine and on the comp side. jmop Goodluck with the build and keep us posted!
 
thanks!

I'm working on ordering a VB and input (percision industries) from TRE, going to do a laminated flexplate from source auto (good call straight 6 roar) and the converter is going to be a DPC tripple disk

I know what you mean on the sticks, I may just live with them for now and try and tune out excess fuel as much as I can, plan is eventually... way down the road to throw a 480/85 under the 63, if I try the 5x18's and they are too hot, I will keep them and buy some 5x14's

but i think the cam and a healthy AFC will keep it under control for now.. IDK, we shall see.
 
talked to Weston, switched my 5x18 to a 5x16, also ordered a different turbo from him, s362 FMW with the .84 gated housing and 68 wheel, should do a bit better at burning the fuel earlier in the Rpms. also should be a great secondary if i build a set of compounds this winter
 
pulling the motor in the truck this friday, going to throw the cam in, studs, valvesprings, time it, KDP, 2095 plug, gov springs, silly stuff like that. I figure its easier to just pull it, wrench hard, then put it back in. rather than swap the lifters in the truck.

Replace the headgasket... or just thread studs in? not being lazy, just wondering if a headgasket that is not leaking, and original, is stronger than a new headgasket. on a cleaned up head/block surface. what do you guys think? Also, what should I tourque the ARP's to? ARP says 125ftlbs...ive seen people do more?


also... Votes on what color to paint the motor?

I plan to get it all back together, degrease the **** out of it (allready the cleanest most leakfree 12v ive ever seen) then throw a coat of paint on the places that need it, like the injector lines where paint is flaking.

Cummins Beige? Black? Cummins Red?
 
Red would sort of match the truck. Looks like you have a decent build coming together! You will absolutely love the DPC converter. It holds whatever my GT37 is putting through the trans without issue whatsoever. I did my own valvebody which is obviously no where near the level of Garmon or Goerend etc. So you'll be even happier than I am. Phil is an absolute great guy to deal with at DPC. He said once I was ready to upgrade from my single to a triple he'd take my original purchase and credit it towards the upgrade. How many people do you know would do that?!
 
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Between Weston and Phil at DPC you are already in the midst of a couple great guys. Weston will not sell you something you do not need or he wouldn't run himself. Same goes for Phil.
 
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