98.12v keeps shutting off while driving.
Started about 2 months ago. It would do it once every couple of weeks. Would be driving along and it would just die. I push the clutch in wait till the rpms hit 0 and it fires right back up. There other morning I was going to work and it died at the stoplight. I would restart and it would die again. It did this several times then finally stayed running then died two more times on the way to work. I ohmed out the solenoid and I got the same readings on it as I did a used one and a brand new. I then wiggled the wiring harness around while I had the meter on it and couldn't get the slightest indication of a short or a broken wire. I cleaned all my battery connections and the truck did great for about a week and then yesterday on the way home from work it died again and started right back up. Anybody got any thoughts. I'm kind of starting to lean toward a ignition switch.
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I dont think the relay on the firewall would have anything to do with it. The start and hold part of the coil is a completely different circuit.
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I had this happen years ago, turned out to be a loose power wire under the column right behind the steering wheel. that was my issue
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AT THE BTM OF THE STEERING COLUMN IS A BIG WHITE PLUG...I kicked mne or something and it was just loose enough to do this same thing...
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It's been 6-7 years since I had my '95, but if I remember correctly, one or both of these relays works the "Hold" side of the fuel solenoid.
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...1&d=1560537050 |
I'm not sure if 95 is the same as the 98. My wiring diagram doesn't show it going to a relay just a 10 amp fuse in the dash with a couple things tied into the circuit. I'll check a couple of these mentioned above out and report back. Oddly enough before it started dieing I would be going down the road or coming to a stop and I would lose oil pressure. I hooked up a mechanical gauge and finally one day got it to act up. I still had 30 lbs of oil pressure but the gauge had dropped to 0. I researched a little bit and seen where some say it could need refreshed where it basically turns the gauge into a idiot light. It hasn't acted up since about a week before I cleaned the cables.
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2 Attachment(s)
Here's the '98 Fuel/Ignition System circuit diagram:
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...1&d=1560553122 And here is the '98 PDC. It's one or both the relays boxed in RED. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...1&d=1560553122 |
I pulled the asd relay while it was running and the truck kept running. I shut it off and restarted and it fired right up. Not sure what the asd goes to.
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Automatic Shut Down
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Correct but it doesn't shut down anything. The truck still.starts and shuts off as it should with the key.
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I changed the fuel filter on the truck. Not that I thought it was the problem but because it was due for one. The truck ran flawless for three weeks and now it started acting up again. Now it usually dies in the first 5 miles after setting either overnight or while I'm at work and it has been taking 5-7 tries to get it to run again. It starts then dies.
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Tie up the shutoff solenoid just to rule it and associated parts out. If that doesn't fix it, then you know it is fuel supply or IP related.
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Check your overflow valve, if the spring has broken it will blead down like what your describing also. |
Mine dont have the fusible link. It's a 98 model. I would think if it was sucking air it wouldnt start as easy as it does. Batteries are almost new and turn the motor over just fine. I wondered about electrical part of it. My radio never flickers or anything.
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I checked everything that was mentioned above plus went over everything under the hood again. I cant get the voltage to drop any by shaking the harness or wiggling on the connectors.
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Next time it dies, leave key on, pull over, pop hood latch and visually inspect the shutdown solenoid. I'd wager the shutdown solenoid will be down, in the off position.
From there, I'd pull out a multimeter and see if the keyed-on 12v power at the 3 wire shutdown connector is still showing positive 12v. If yes, I'd change out the shutdown solenoid. |
It just done it about a hour ago. I pulled over and popped the hood and the shutdown solenoid was down. I'll put my meter in the truck tonight so when it does it again I'll check. I ohmed out three different solenoids I including the one on the truck and they all read the same. So that's why I was thinking this is good. I tried to push it up but it wouldnt hold. Maybe its breaking down and dropping out.
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I thought about that this evening as a matter of fact. I think I got some indicator lights here somewhere that I was going to run in my pulling truck years ago.
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Can anybody tell me what all circuits ground out on the drivers side fender under the battery box. I found where somebody had been in there before. Plus there is corrosion on some of the wires. I cleaned all the grounds and the metal. I'm going to solder on some new ends and heat shrink them instead of the current butt splices. I just didnt want to chase my tail. I traced the hold wire all the way back under the dash and didnt see anything alarming. I had a test light hooked to the ground side of the plug and a meter hooked to the hold side and couldn't get a flicker or a loss of power anywhere I wiggled the wires.
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Never mind guys I figured it out. Thanks for the help.
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Oops sorry about that. The female terminal on the factory wiring side is broke on one side causing it to lose connection. You have to look close with a flashlight and move the pin with small screwdriver to tell but that's what it is. It done it again and this time I had my meter with me and troubleshooted it on the side of the road. After I unplugged it and still had my voltages and ground. I plugged it back in and pushed it up and nothing. I thought it was a bad solenoid dropping out intillni started wiggling the plug and i pushed up on the rod and it stayed. I kept wiggling ever so slightly and it dropped back out. I said bingo.
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