Keeping the front end down more?
 

How do you guys keep the front end of your trucks down more for added traction if you are not allowed to hang weight for put weight forward if the bed? Do you guys somehow chain the front end down so it doesn't unload? I just installed a locker in the front and want to try and get the most out of it as possible. I already have bump stops taken out and lower my torsion bars down all the way. And advice is greatly appreciated!

Are you allowed to have an aftermarket bumper?
Chaining the front sounds like a good way to bounce. You want some suspension travel.

Maybe some IFS guys will chime in on setting that up.

Use suspension stops, basically want the front to rest on the stops until you load the front, and just come off the stops going down the track.

^^^^ make stops that your truck rests on until you pull. Dhd and performance pros both make adjustable sets. What are your hitch rules?

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We are not allowed aftermarket bumpers and hitch must be 26". Don't you want the front to stay as low as possible when pulling, instead of unloading as the weight comes up?

I'm also curious in this topic. 03 CR qcsb. Tried the stops and nothing but bad bad bouncing..

I have my front end down as far as I can right now and I've had no issue with bouncing. But I'm wondering on the best ways to keep it down for more traction on the front

Make a set of of front rims out of round steel bar stock. Should be able to weigh 500 each pretty easy. Or fill the front tires with lead shot.

Or antifreeze.

Worrying about keeping your front end down is the wrong thought process. No matter the class or HP range the contributing factor to good chassis geometry is to limit the amount that the hitch height changes when the front end raises at take off and weight transfers rearward. A good rule of thumb in a duramax is to install a small steel block or adjustable stop as previously mentioned that allows the truck to sit at a given height and not simply completely off the torsion bars. If I was setting the truck up I would raise the torsion bars just to the point where the A-Arms raise the front so that the CV axles are just slightly negative from level. This should allow you to install roughly a 2" solid steel block onto the A-arms bump stop location where the factory cushion already is. Slightly take 1-2 turns of the Torsion bar bolt back out and allow the truck to sit on the steel blocks. What this does is limits the amount of free travel that the truck will raise at takeoff and to some degree preloads the suspension enough to sit within its center of gravity. Your CV axles should practically run level once the truck is taking off. When the front end raises the hitch lowers and I can promise you that 1-2" if not more of hitch height is more valuable then trying to sneak weight upfront or fluid in the tires. Other things such as a good steering stabilizer, supports to the idler and pitman arms, straight center links, and good tie rods will also benefit your success upfront. Hope this helps.

Ok that makes sense. So in your opinion when I took out my bump stops completely and let the torsion bars down all the way was not quite what I should have done? You want me to weld in some steel blocks where the bump stops go and leave some tension on because that somewhat "preloads" the front? And yea I already have the G2 tie rods and straight centerlink and stuff like that.

Correct, however you don't have to weld them on if you don't want to. Its a little extra work but if you line the steel block up with the hole above it where the cushion was mounted and then drill a hole in the piece of steel and then tap it you can simply run a bolt through it if you prefer. You cant go wrong setting up this way.

Ok that all makes perfect sense. In your opinion, in our class we are allowed 8000 ibs max weight. My truck only weighs 7200 with me in it, would the best place for the weight be in the front of the box then if we are not allowed any hanging weight? Or is still the further the weight is forward still better I.E under the back seat?

If you're not allowed to run it out the front the yes you want to put it as far forward as you can in the bed. Yes you want to be at max weight.

Depending how much you care about your interior and your cab floor because all those weights will cause havoc if you don't secure them from sliding around. Some organizations prohibit weights in the cab, but yes you should always try to weigh the maximum even if you have to make a weight bracket for the bed, build one to sit behind the drivers side along the dog house. The drivers side will torque up higher so any weight on that side helps.

So put all of the 800 ibs on the drivers side? You wouldn't want it evenly distributed?

Yes. Some organizations won't allow you to run weights in the cab. If you're allowed that would be the best place for them as long as they aren't just laying in there. They need to be safely secured so they don't turn into a flying hammer in the event of an accident.

Can't stress enough how important it is to weigh as much as you're allowed. The truck is already at a huge weight disadvantage compared to the load of the sled. Every little bit helps. I can tell a significant difference in mine even if I'm only a couple hundred pounds light.

Not sure if I'd worry too much about putting it towards the driver side unless it was actual hanging weight out front. If I have to have 1 side heavier than the other, I would make it be the driver side. The thought is it will help counter act the weight that is transferred to the passenger side via the twisting of the engine

Correct. Try to figure out how much the truck is lifting up front, then pre-load it as close to that height as possible while still allowing the truck to raise up slightly. On my truck, every 1 inch that the front end raises up, equates to 1/2" loss of hitch height. That figure will vary depending on truck setup, wheelbase, and hitch design, but you want your hitch to be and remain as high as possible so the weight from the sled is transferred to your truck.

How did you come up with the 1" to 1/2" ratio did? Did you measure it? I would expect it to be closer to a 1" to a 1/4" ratio.