P-Pump F.A.Q. READ THIS FIRST!!!
 

Seems alot of threads keep getting asking the same thing on this subject. So here is the basics for all of you considering it.

Is the swap right for me?

This has many answers. If you want 400hp, daily drive your truck, and tow, no. You would be better off with your VP. Unless the truck is operated in the middle of nowhere miles from any help it really isnt worth it. Honestly unless you want the cool factor, being under 600HP this isnt neccasary. Pullers and racers wanting over 4000rpm this is your only choice.

How much does it cost?

Some have come out money ahead in it, some have spent 10k. A parts kit will be around $1600. A new pump will run over $2000 with a core charge. Of course you can get a used engine with all the parts you need excluding the injection lines for $1500. Selling the VP stuff to recoup the money helps.

What parts do I need for the swap?

Ok, Haisley Machine, Schied, and Pured Diesel Power sell conversion sets. Basically you will need a Pump, 12v gear cover, P-pump drive gear, throttle linkage, intake horn spacer, P-pump bracket (2 pieces), 12V throttle cable, and a set of custom injector lines. Get stainless steel lines, unless the truck is a dedicated puller. If your truck is an 01-02 you will need a cam sensor relocation bracket from haisley.

Buying a complete 12V would be the easiest thing.

Can I do this myself?

This depends on your mechanical ability. If changing injectors is a big deal, you dont need to do this. If you can swap cams in a 5.9 then you can do the actual swap. Dont lie, either you can or cant. You also need to be familar with the 12V and 24V fuel system.

If you cant do the swap expect to pay $1200-2500 in labor.

You will also need some fabrcation skills.

How hard is it to tune?

Again, depends on your personal experience. You dont bolt on a pump and drive. It will require some work. Most trucks like around 19* some like more depending on your injectors and pump. AFC will need tweeked with other things wastegate, govenor, ect.

What do I do about injectors?

Thats a delima. The quick fix is to reset the pop pressure on your injectors. 280-300 BAR seems to be the norm. I ran mine at VP pressure, picked up about 80hp with the correct pressure. Some companies make injectors specific to this application. Just call your prefered shop and talk to them.

What is the best P-pump to use?

Um, one that works. Really, if its a driver anything is fine. YOU DONT HAVE TO HAVE A 215 TO MAKE POWER. Its been proven that a 160 will make all you want on a street truck. If your building a Competition Diesel, a 215 will be a better pump. So will a 13mm, really depends on your budget and hp level.

What do I need to do to the P-pump?

Again, depends on the application. If your granpa and want to haul your camper, 3000 RPM Govener Spring Kit and a #6 plate will be all you need.

Alternately if you want to make some numbers a 4GSK, laser cuts (or 191's), with some AFC mods, a 100 plate, and a rack plug. With proper tuning that will get you to 600hp.

Will my juice work one the truck after the swap.

Leave us.

What do I do about my electronics?

Ok if you want the gauges to work again you will need to keep you cam sensor/ crank sensor. 98.5-00 will just use the crank sensor, 01-02 will need the cam sensor. This does more than run your tach. Without it, the dash, A/C, charging system, and cruise will not work.

What do I do with my ECM?

Bracket will need to be fabricated to hold the ECM. An inverted "T" bolted to the brake booster will work. Use your imagination, keep clear of the stearing shaft and other lines.

What fuel pump do I use?

If you bought an aftermarket cam with a fuel pump lobe you can use a 12V lift pump. Otherwise you can use any electic fuel pump that is able to supply 35+ psi (Fass, Air Dog, ect.)

Will my cruise control work?

This is varying with your truck. If your truck has a vacuum cruise control system then YES. The Throttle Position Sensor will need to be connected to the TPS, as will the cable from the Cruise unit. Some 01-02's had Fly-by-Wire cruise. As of right now Im not sure if that can be converted to a vacuum type unit. If enought parts are swaped it can be done.

I have an automatic, how do I keep it functioning?

The TPS and TV cable will need to be connected to the throttle.

How is the drivability?

This is impossible to answer. It depends on your setup and personal taste. I will tell you that you will not have near the low end torque of a VP44.

How much HP will I make?

300-1500hp. Depends on your wallet.

Last part.

Those of you on the fence about doing this, this should have answered all your questions. Anything I havent covered ask in this thread an we will do out best to answer it.

Above all, use the search button and READ.

Sticky!!!

Great read!



roachie, i thought your stainless lines kept leaking?

great write up.

Sticky Nice write up

If doing the swap how dou tell what timing u would want, do u look at ur egts, or is it just what feels right to u. dont plan on doin a swap anytime soon just curious.
Thanks Jake

Nice write up. Only thing I'd change is buying the stainless lines. Heard lots of stories from lots of folks about them cracking.

I'd kill the stainless lines deal as well...


Oh and if tuned right, the daily drive and tow isn't an issue either... Much happier with DD and towing with my setup now, so much more predictable than with the VP.. IMO

how is the driving compared to a well tuned 12v? is it gonna feel any different than a good 12v?

Shouldn't considering that your running the heart of the 12v.

another vote against the stainless lines, they sure are pretty, but not after they crack and leak fuel all over the engine.

About the injection lines:

Alot of the failures of the lines are from poor craftsmanship or improper instalation. The kits come with injector line clamps assembled in a fasion that you would think is acceptable. The truth is you need to reuse some of the clamps and stand from the VP. Be prepared to fight them on too.

Stainless is a better choice for a street truck over the mild steel. Vibration and corosion will take its toll on regular steel real quick.

Timing:

That depends on your setup, goals, and taste. If your wanting a low RPM towing setup, around 17. Most street performance trucks will like 19-21, remember bottom end power suffers as you increase the timing.

Street Manners/ Drivability:

Like I said this is personal preferance. A P=pump has fixed timing vs. the VP's dynamic timing. Dynamic meaning it adjusts the timing in relation to input from various sensors to give the most power possible.

With that said, a P-pump will not make its peak torque at 1600rpm and hold it like a VP. The P7100 will have a nice curve going up to the peak torque and back down after the peak. Timing will adjust where that is along with other mods on your truck.

I dont care what anyone says, the low end torque of a VP is the cat's meow for driving/ towing. Agian, thats just my opinion.

Tuned 12V vs. 24V conversion:

The short answer is you can throw more fuel at a coverted 24V than a 12V with reasonable egt's. This comes from the 24V head flowing the same CFM as a Stg2 ported 12V head (from piers chart). Turbos will light a little quicker, EGT's will be lower, and low end power will pick up some if you were comparing similar fueling.The real bennifit is swaping to an aftermarket cam while your doing the swap. That will help substatialy.

With a Helix 2 in my truck I ran lazer cut Delivery Valves with 7x14's (280ish hp injectors) and a Silver Bullet 66. With the AFC tuned properly it was relativly clean on the street. Exept at WOT.

don't forget a valve train for a 24 valve to be able to trun some rpm is 1200 bucks.

I cranked well past 4K with a cam, stock valve train, and 55-60psi.

Pistons never touched the valves.

Springs, retainers, and keepers help, rumor is that stock bridges cyro'd will be just fine. IIRC

Nice write up, answered all my questions I'd have if, or should I say when my 2nd vp dies.

good write up! I like it. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:

Agreed it is a good write up...

:thankyou2: Roachie

From mathews8pt on another site. This was his parts list for his swap. Should help a few people out when tracking down parts!!!!

175 pump, gear, nut, washer, all throttle linkage on side of pump, 12v throttle cable, gear case, gear cover, bracket for mounting pump, oil line, T fitting for oil lines
12v TV cable for tranny, TPS mounting bracket and 6 used TPS sensors(not needed if you have a 5 speed) > $50
.084 conversion lines (lines only) > $380
Intake spacer made by local machinist (had him make it 1 1/4" tall)
Cam (max spool 2.5)
Tappets (new CR tappets) > $90
.022 dvs > $150
4gsk > $130
Fuel lines(just used 3/8" for now, will upgrade later) > $10
Gasket material for intake spacer(i can make about 30 out of one roll) > $6
EOS oil and cummins assembly lube > $10
Timing cover gasket set > $52
Dowel rods (1/2")
110# valve springs
60psi fuel gauge mounted in regulator

Now there are a few upgrades, like the cam and CR tappets, that arent exactly needed, but its a pretty simple run down!!!

So is a 12v setup...

Merrick

Something I forgot:

Oil Feed line

The P7100 is oil lubricated. To do the swap you will need a oil line "T" and line. The "T" is oem for a 12V. You will also need the too connect the pump to the oil supply. It is a -4an line, will also need a line to go from the "T" to the power steering pump.

The OEM inlet of the P-pump is blocked by the head. Luckily the pump has 2 inlets. The other is on the drivers side of the pump. The original inlet needs to be blocked, It uses an 1/8 NPT IIRC.

The secondary feed is a different thread, you will need a special fitting with a restricor. They can be found here. http://www.shop.eatsoot.com/category.sc?categoryId=5

They also have the cam sensor braket for the 01-02's.