home cut DVs
 

here is my attempt at tossing my stock 131s on the lathe and going 'full retard'.
this thread may be kinda useless until the snow melts and im able to actually drive the thing, but im curious to hear some thoughts from others who likely know much more about this than i do.
i went from stock 131s and it was fast and decently drivable, then i tried a friends "semi" full cut 181s, and it became a bit twitchy... as in sluggish and smokey around town, and then unexpected madness with any kind of boost, and not much in between. a bit hard to control and unpredictable.

so i thought id try messing with the old 131s and see what would happen. as i say, im not able to drive the thing yet with the snow, but what are your predictions? WAY WAY too much fuel? "you destroyed a good set of DVs"?
"put a fuel plate back in and you'll be fine"? ???

here are some ultra close ups of the stock 131s vs. the "semi" full cut 181s, vs. my "full retard cut" 131s.


stock 131
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/IMG_5980.jpg

cut 181
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/IMG_5982.jpg

home cut 131
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/IMG_6006.jpg

I was expecting full cuts when you said 'full retard' those will be fine IMO

i didnt go full cut because i suspected the hazyness and boggyness of the 'full cut' 181s i ran was due to the lack of ridge left just below the seal. from what i read this causes a touch of "blow by" if you will (sorry, a little lacking on my proper terminology here) adding to the amount of fuel/smoke causing my turbos to take longer to spool. so i patterned them more after a 'comp cut'.

my thoughts were, if i leave a hair of the ridge at the top, it may prevent this haze a touch, and if i cut deeper into the body of the valve it will gain me that much more volume. when searching, i only ever saw DVs cut to the same diameter as the main body, never 'under cut'.... so i thought id see what that would do. this is why i said 'full retard'. i haven't seen them like this before.
a friend suggested i may need to cut the ridge even lower into X-sectioned area. (again, forgive my lack of terminology) i think this would be WAY too much fuel, and way overboard for my 160 pump and its cam.

again, thoughts on all this?

heres what they are in for those who care. general specs are in my sig at the bottom.

http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/n...n/file-301.jpg

3100lbs is awesome. How much does it twist when spooling?

Car is awesome.

:D

it tries to lift the front corner pretty hard if i launch it and lock it up under any boost.
going for 1000hp on a 'ghetto fog' in the spring.

ideas on the DVs?

Look up smokem on here. He has a nice 7mm dv. They work very well.

Nice ride bud. Where you from?

i was kinda waiting for him to chime in.

from Alberta Canada

Yes but, on Venus, they don't wear hats because purple.

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to get a vehicle like yours registered? I'm assuming custom chassis? I've got a 1946 international kb2 truck chassis I want to droo into a dodge 2500 frame. Not sure how much trouble I'm getting myself into with getting it registered. Sorry for the hijack

What's your turbo setup? What's egts I see its non ic?

Says hx40 ht3b in signature

I still think you should have cut the reduced diameter down about the thickness of the band you cut again. Right into the start of the fluting and to where it transitions back out.

Egt's are never really over 1600F, but it has a water/meth setup, and in a 3000lbs car you can only ever stay in the throttle for a couple of seconds before you are traveling well over any posted speed limit.

Dying is always a way bigger concern than egt's...

:hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe::hehe:

With that front straight axle I bet it is interesting!!

That was definitely sig material! :clap:

dying IS always the main concern!! haha! weve likely come close a few times! its getting a cage this winter if our bender dye ever shows up.

the straight axle isnt bad as long as you keep both ends of it on the ground..... this goes back to the 'dying' issues spoken of.

as for making it street legal, it depends where you live. here in Alberta Canada, it simply goes through an "out of province inspection" that is i believe a 140 point government standardized inspection. as long as it meets the standards that would have been appropriate at the age of the VIN# your using (year of vehicle), your good to go. the hard part becomes finding an older guy at a shop who knows enough about the old cars to know what points can be marked "not applicable", and whos willing to sign their name to that paperwork based on that old-school car knowledge. in my case i dont require signals, high beams, running lights, reverse lights, seat belts, wipers.... basic i need headlights, a single stop light, and a horn. i do have the other stuff because im not totaly insane.

anyways, the DVs... i think cutting that same reduced diameter into the flute area is WAY too much. i bet that wouldn't make it out of the garage without blacking out the neighborhood. much less be drivable with any amount of fuel plate.
im happy to do some tests though if someone wants to send me a free set of factory DVs to cut into a little at a time.:Cheer: ill PM you my shipping address:pop:

here in Alberta, you would register that kind of set up using the VIN of the frame your using. so if you put the old body onto a 2500 frame, it would be registered as a 19## dodge 2500 still and not need the inspection as id assume that frame would be currently registered as a legit vehicle before you tore into it.
sorry... more thread hijacking.

i got a chance to drive the car today with the new home cut 131 DVs.
hard to tell by the seat of your pants, but it seems to have easily the same power if not a bit more than it had with the 'full cut' 181s, but it is much more drivable with these 131s having a touch of the collar left on, and it is not nearly as smokey and boggy as it was with the full cuts.
at idle, it does still haze, but not quite as much as with the full cuts.

the best benefit seems to be the similar power to the full cuts, but with less boggyness due to a bit less smoke. it is more drivable in the fact that the throttle seems to respond nicer and make the car more predictable with a smoother building power curve, rather the unresponsive cloud of death, that suddenly and unpredictably becomes a car being near sideways at highway speeds.

of course off a light it is still boggy (although slightly not as bad as before) with no fuel plate, so ill try putting the fuel plate back in and test again if the roads stay dry.

perhaps that will give the car the best of both worlds as far as driveability.

The fuel plate won't help you at all off the line. Thats all in the AFC.