high egt low boost problem
 

i have a early 2004 commonrail running 06 electronics and a 6.7rail, lines and intake. motor is in a 2006 f250 and has a banks intercooler, 3.5" intercooler piping
Turbo: borg SXE 63/68/.70 gated
injectors: brand new S&S 100hp
Tuning: efi by Les @ silver bullet
gearing: 4.30 with stockish tires

not the everyday setup in a dodge truck but was hoping someone could help me out in trying to figure out what's going on. im struggling to get over 25psi boost, and my EGTs get to 1400 fairly easy and really fast. when im towing its even worse. I've sent data logs, I've checked for boost leaks( actually just got truck from shop having them replace an intake gasket and check for leaks also to double click me) no boost leaks. im getting ready to pick up a non gated 14cm turbine housing to see if this helps me out. im heading out on a camping trip and will be running long grades of 6% or better for miles at a time. truck has a stock exhaust manifold which I plan on changing as soon as I can, but for now I was just planning on tossing on the 14cm housing and see what happens.


its been a while since I've spoken to the tuner, its been a long time since I've sent logs also, I don't want this to turn into me bashing anyone I just wanted to give specifics of my build to anyone who might be able to help. with that said. I was told data logs look great and nothing is showing up that would throw up a red flag, rail pressure, boost, everything looks normal.

I have just been kind of babying the truck and making due, I don't really drive it a whole lot until here lately since I got the new trailer and have been doing a lot of yard work and hauling material to the house. but now that I have been driving it and working it, its kind of a pain in the a$$ to have to be so careful and not just be able to drive it. how can I get my EGTs down? are the boost numbers bad? are they lower than should be expected?

Anyone else have any input of what could be going on or maybe something I can look into. id really appreciate the help.

Thanks

Richard

Is this thing smoking a lot? And have you tried running without a tune (if you can)? Have you double checked boost with another gauge? And what kind of RPM are you running when the EGTs are hot?

zero smoke out the tailpipe, I went to stock, ive used the 12v tune, the lowest street tune.. I have not put truck on anything higher than the street tune since ive had it. ive checked boost with another gauge and compared to gauge in the dash, no real difference to speak of. egts are hot all the time.. I run 4.30 gears so im spinning 2500RPM at 75mph, when im just cruising truck is fine. pulling 24000-26000 pounds on flat ground im running about 1100 on pyro.i don't know if that's bad or not. if im around 1600 RPM and go to get some more speed and just roll into throttle, it gets to 1200 like right now right now. and doesn't come down until im at cruising speed and can let off.

im going to try a bigger exhaust housing and see what happens, I also have another pyro im going to swap in as well as a manual boost gauge that uses a piece of tubing plumbed into it.

on the exhaust housing topic, should I get a 14cm gated or non gated? price difference is substantial. 220 for a non gated and 450 for a gated. from AGP, they are local to me.

On the setup you have now, is the gate a spring gate or boost reference gate?
Do you know at what boost level it starts to open?

its a boost reference gate. turbo builder said it was set to 20 or 30 psi they use 2 different types of gates. when I asked about this, his response was that regardless of what gate I had I should be able to make 40psi no sweat. that a stock cummins should have enough energy to push right on pass the gate, regardless of the pucks are open or not.. so since that conversation I tightened the gate, preloaded it, as far as I could, with zero change in how it acts.
I do not know when it starts to open, ive tried to watch it on the truck but when im alone I don't have enough arms to hold the air line and get up in there to watch it.. stupid I know but I don't have the tools as of right now to do it correctly.

I know this seems fairly obvious and usually not the case. Are there any rags left in the intake track from maintenance? From air filter to intake shelf on the head, all clear?

Just asking because I know a knuckle head that’s done this.

funny you say that. because when I first started this motor it was really really smokey and would take any kind of throttle input. and that was the case. there was a sock stuck in the intake horn from the guy I bought the motor from. theres was also tape covering the hole in which I removed and reached in but didn't find anything else in there.

ive put about 2000 miles on this truck, this problem didn't start happening until I put the injectors and turbo on and had it tuned. I did injectors first and she was pretty hot which I kinda figured it would be with the stock he341, it got a little better with the trubo but its never ran cool in any kind of load or in any kind of moderate to heavier throttle..

I also just had the intake plate off to fix a small boost leak that I found in the gasket.. nothing was left behind during that install.

Will it run better on a different tune? The 12v tune I have ran only makes 20hp more then stock that was with stock injectors. Any exhaust restrictions or leaks? Reach in and spin the turbo by hand, does it spin easy?

I’ve tried all but the death mode tunes with zero change. Stock, 12v, and street. No restrictions or exhaust leaks that I’ve found. Turbo spins free as can be by hand. It has a 5” turbo back exhaust straight pipes.

Something funky is going on with your turbo or you have a leak. The bigger exhaust housing isn’t going to do much of anything if you are that hot while cruising.

I’m about 8-900 cruising empty and 1000-1100 heavy loaded..those pretty hot?

I cruise between 750 ish up to 900 depending on terrain. Full throttle runs on max tune I hit 1500* easily. Towing on my old tunes would hit 1300+ on long grades. I have not towed with my new tunes yet.

My truck has 50hp injectors and an HE300vg turbo. Your temps look normal to me.

If these temps are what you’re seeing with a 63mm turbo and 100hp injectors, you’re running normal. 1,100* loaded heavy is nothing for your described setup.

If you want to cool things off, add more air via a second turbo. Especially if you tow a decent amount.

1100 degrees was cruising on flat ground. Any small hill or bump in the road I’m 12-1300 like right now right now. The truck never really moves unless she’s being worked. I’d like to add another turbo but I also want/need an exhaust brake.. and can’t have both without spending a boat load of cash.

So would a 14cm turbine housing and after market manifold help? Waste of money? Should I go to a T4? Or is that a waste of money also? I have a .83 dual volute gated housing I could put on if I got a different manifold. Just kinda waiting to see what y’all think before I spend money I don’t really have to spend right now.

What does it climb to after you lean on it? If it's jumping to 1300 but stays there, run it

Try wiring your wastegate arm shut, or if available, put a few more turns on the adjustment arm to tighten it up. It shouldn't take very long, is free to try, and as far as I can tell, hasn't been suggested yet.

Going to a larger housing would be the wrong direction for what your wanting.

I think your Wastegate is leaking way early, yeah it will get to 40psi when you outrun the gate, but pulling heavy at 1600rpm it needs to be sealed/shut tight.

It’s gotten to almost 1400 before I’ve backed out of it. Usually on a downshift pulling a hill.

I’ve got the gate turned as far shut as I can get it. It went about 5 more turns shut. I’m going to pull it off and hook air up to itnon the bench. I’ve thought it was the wastegate since day one but until this thread , y’all have been the only ones who have brought that up. So I’m just going to try to take a look at it off the truck.

Didn't a lot of the pucks in those housings leak?