Another rusty ugly budget drag truck
I picked this truck up 6months ago from lakeland fl and drove it home 100mi and started tinkering. It is a 1995 RCLB auto. Thanks to the effort of people like will terry and tyler kipp I have learned alot about making these trucks fast. I am also on a budget as these two started out. First trip to the track was better than expected with street tires rolling out I ran a best of 13.3@115 I did not spray it at all on this trip, never had a chance to fill the bottle. I was running with the wastegate disconnected and making about 52psi peak boost. By the end of the night the stock headgasket quit the game. I have purchased a set of upgraded headbolts socket head cap screws and the cummins marine headgasket, also had the head resurfaced with stainless orings @ .011 protrusion. The truck was bone stock when I purchased it and has 175k miles. I picked it up for $3500. I have not touched the transmission yet and it still shifting so it seems to have been rebuilt, previous owner towed a 5th wheel so im sure the stock trans failed on him.
Big thanks to everyone who has shared information on CompD, especially these two. Tyler budget beater http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...beater&page=27 Will junker drag truck http://competitiondiesel.com/forums/...+plugs&page=30 Modifications for first trip to the track... Over torqued headbolts 60lb valve springs Kdp tab 22.5 deg timing New factory lift pump Tork tec ofv modded for 50psi base 2095 rack plug Modded afc for full travel with trimmed gov spring and full travel @ 60psi Fuel heater delete 4k PAC gov springs with washer shim .025 delivery valves 5x.016 injectors Hx52 w tial 38mm on turbine housing Bd power t3-t4 adapter Od and converter lockup switches 2stages nitrous .030 and .062 jets .025 deliver valve vs stock This was my first venture into racing a cummins. A 92' d250 2wd. Best of 14.1@98 I did up the nitrous a bit and found some more fuel for it before I sold it but never returned to track for a better time. I really enjoyed this truck but without a lockup converter and a measely VE I had to get rid of it before I dumped a bunch of money. I knew the second gen was the better platform. For more pics and videos checkout my instagram, @spoolinawd |
Is it just me, or the pics not working? and you have just ove 2 weeks Bryan... is she gonna be ready???? i know my budget beater is still in the yard.... im in trouble. LOL
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Im not seeing the pictures either, but Interested to see this
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk |
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Wow, 115 MPH is moving! Throw some slicks on there and you'll be all over a high 11 second pass!!!
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Thanks notenoughsmoke, not sure how I managed to screw up the photos. Thanks Will, I'm already working on the slicks. These fit without grinding.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps58c2669e.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps67f9eff5.jpg http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps18474eea.jpg |
Excited to share a pic of the head even though it's dark.
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps8f6116b2.jpg |
Nice work! Truck looks good too!
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Rusty? That thing is pretty clean. Nice work, I like seeing threads like these.
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Where did you buy those wheels???
Sent via USPS 2 weeks ago |
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Quote:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-3425180/overview/ |
Correct summit it is. They showed up within a few days also. I don't want them to stick out but after researching wheels for slicks I purchased these because I was sure they would fit.
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It aint rusty unless you welded the roll cage through a hole in the body.
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If you made a set of rear disk brakes you might be able to offset the wheels in more.
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What size slick do you plan on running on them wheels?
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I plan on using a 33x10.5 but I may give in and put a 30" tire since I haven't been able to find any used 33". Tucking the rim is definitely a possibility even with the drums. I tried to search the forums for rim size and ended up with these based on someone else's input, I wanted a rim that would definitely fit with as much backspace as possible to keep it under the bed. Buying another set of rims is not in my budget so these will have to do. Also reading about offset and backspace was making my head spin.
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Looking for opinions on this oring. The machine shop decked the head and cut the grooves for the oring. They also installed the wire. I'm not sure if they did it correctly. It looks as if the wire is bulging in some places and sticking out of the groove. I tried to take some photos but I do t know how well you can see it. Is this normal and will it compress when the head is torqued or did they flatten the wire and miss the groove.
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