Compounds build thread hoping for 600
 

So I’m going to be doing a build thread on my compounds here soon. I’ve had the ht3b and many of the parts laying around for about 3 years now reading and being too busy working to do it but the time is near. I tow with this thing, sometimes up to 20k so I need it to be manageable. I have arp studs waiting to go in when I do all this. Right now I just have free mods and a fuel plate, thinking hard about the afc live, looks slick. I’m looking for 600hp, if I don’t or won’t get it and have it stay cool without porting the head then that’s ok just want to get fairly close. This truck has my welder and equipment on it all the time. This will most likely be a hx35/ht3b build but I do have a 171702 bw. The s475 hot rod turbo for my Peterbilt that I haven’t put on yet lol. I’d rather stick with my bht3b with the 26 housing if I can help it.

So I have a few questions as well

-18* timing is what I’m thinking I’ll do as it can get to 0* here in winter, what will this cap me at for hp? Sure there’s many variables, I’m looking for a rule of thumb here.

- 5x.014s is what I’m planning on ordering, just trying to decide on who’s. Other suggestions on sizes or options as far as lift, edge filter, nut machining and how much?

- I picked up 181s a while back but have yet to install, was going to do the 131 holder on 181 valve. I see they have towing delivery valves now, ideas on these?

-I don’t want to have the pump benched but I will if it’s the kitty’s ******* and that’s what I need to do.

-if I do a 16 housing on the hx35 and it’s not gated, will I be overworking the secondary here? I’ve read 27ish psi on this one then let the gate rip, will exceed that with a 16? Or should I do hx35/hx40 hybrid? I was just planning on drilling the flapper out and letting my spacer let all 6 flow.

-these cheaper 3 piece manifolds like dap sells, are they worth putting on over the stocker?

-if I build a dual feed intake horn am I going to see improvements?

-I was planning on doing a carter pusher on my nearly new mechanical pump and dual feeding with a regulator on my return, unless someone had another suggestion that’s not a super expensive pump.

Thanks fellas

I’d run 20* timing.
Talk to Weston at Infinite Performance about injectors, delivery valves and AFC tuning.
If the pump is running well now, there isn’t a need to have it benched.
Id leave the stock housing on the HX35, drill the wastegate hole larger, but do not cut the divider out. Cutting the divider out will hurt spoolup. Stock wastegated hole is 3/4”, you can go up to 1” and the flap just barely covers it.
I probably wouldn’t stress out about running a dual feed intake horn.

Thanks for your response!

Am I going to be rolling the dice with 20* timing and just the cheap arp studs? And I’m glad that you said don’t cut out the divider, I was thinking about milling it out of there.

I am at 24* and on the cheaper ARP studs but do have orings in the block with an OEM Cummins gasket. Pushing 90psi boost and about 120psi drive.

I didn't have any trouble starting in 5* weather last winter but I had a lazy 160hp pump on at the time and the injection event was a little sloppy and late. I have noticed that even on the brisker 40* mornings this late spring, the timing with this healthy 180hp pump shows a little bit of side effect.

I wouldn't worry about a pusher pump personally. I am at at least 650hp calculated and running an OEM cummins lift pump with the comp cams spring, deleted fuel heater, bottom tank sump, 1/2" lines, and an adjustable 50-150psi check valve on the return.

Did you do the o ring grooves in the block yourself with the tool? I can’t remember what it’s called. And if so, was it pretty straight forward?
Ok so more towards the 20* side of BTDC, do you use the thin copper fire washers on your injectors? Or is that just generally what everyone is using?

I've never seen an HX35 based compound setup with an HT3B surpass 550 HP. They need more turbine flow so either a custom larger HX40 turbine wheel, or a bigger exhaust housing and wheel. Then you'll barely have enough air with an HT3B to see 600 HP. If your goal is towing heavy, the stock HX35 over HT3B will work fine just keep in mind you're towing with 400 or less HP!!

The HT3B is supposedly only good for approximately 80lbs/min.

80lbs per minute........may as well have a big turbine SX-E366.
Still should be able to get really close to 600hp with that amount of air.

Dang it, now I’m rethinking the ht3b. Piers site just shows that the dang things are good into the 700 range with a S300 too but 350-600 with a hx35 so I’ve been kind of going off of that.
So should I go with a 5x.014 or a 5x.012 if it’s only good into mid 500s?
My goal isn’t to tow heavy, I just don’t want to lose my ability to do so...

I bet this never gets completed. You have tons of reading to catch up on. Play with google.

Don't sweat the 600 mark. An Hx35/40 hybrid with a 3b makes a great 500+ towing setup as long as you have a good pump. If you have a stock lift pump, don't waste time adding more(it's not needed). My old p-pumped 24V got tuned up by Nascar Mark at PDR back in the day with a Dodgezilla over 3B set up and ran amazngly well. Best bang for the buck is pump work though. Makes everything else easier.

I used to have a hx35 with a banks 14cm housing with the divider drilled over a cheap box big turbine 475. It towed great, and it ran pretty hard for what it was.

Haha it’ll get completed. I have most the stuff sitting here to do it. I have just the injectors and boots left to buy, and the primary oil feed line. There’s always plenty to learn, I’m just working on the details. I’m not a huge fan of redoing things, so I want to make sure I’m doing the combo the way that’s going to make the most sense. I’ve read through all the hx35/ht3b threads that I could find over the last 3 yrs; most get littered with info that’s not useful or just reposted hearsay.

Anyway, do you guys run drive gauges all the time or just temporary for set up and tuning? I’m thinking that the Hewitt double needle would be sweet for primary and drive.

I’ll probably end up doing pump work down the road, I haven’t read anywhere yet that someone didn’t feel the same way you do about it. I’m glad to hear you say that the lift pumps good for it as well, I’ll just get a torktek and call it a day on that end.

Did you just drill the waste gate hole and divider out on the dodgezilla? I was really thinking of taking the time to build a bulge into the back plate to help let the gate swing open further and let the flow be smoother.

Just drill thru the divider, anything else is a waist of time. Put the 3b under it and run it. Keep the overall boost under control and run the hell out of it. Being you already have the primary.

The Hewitt double needle gauge is sweet, I have one in my truck, one needle is for boost, the other tells me how much boost pressure AFCL is allowing to the afc
It would be real easy to use it to monitor drive pressure

Glad I’m not the only one.

The general discussion here is everyone used to run this or that. Meaning this is 10+ year old conversations that have taken place time and again. You’re working with old ideas and old technology. Which means it can be done before, and also means your questions have already been answered many times over. If not here, Cummins forum, or TDR. We are not building a rocket ship here, just adding a turbo and some fuel.

None the less, good luck with your build. You’ll enjoy the result should you make a go of this.

On top of it all packaging the 3b is a pain with the reverse rotation. Makes downpipes more complicated generally. Hang a 171702 under it and call it a day. It will spool the same, flow more, and make packaging much easier.

I remember when I took out the 3b and made the plumbing for the S400. Looked way different with all the extra room.

I don’t t really remember asking for opinions on whether or not I was going to finish up hanging compounds on my truck or not?What I do remember is asking for suggestions relating to the questions I had asked. I’ve read through the old posts, My questions weren’t asking on what I need to do it, I was looking more for what people have actually done themselves. I was hoping to hear from blue and Ron as Well as others that I’ve seen their posts before in compound threads. I bought the truck out of a field in North Dakota 5 years ago, rebuilt the trans, redid the interior, repainted the truck and built a skirted welding bed and paint matched it along with a front bumper and frame repaint. I bought the 3b in an excited hurry 4 years ago and have had it sitting as I thought maybe I jumped to quick. The trucks been just my welding truck since then and now I’m finally getting caught back up with my businesses to where it’s not consuming every second of my life.

Anyway I think I may just go ahead and put the bw under there and resell the 3b. Both turbos are brand new, and for whatever reason the 3b’s are more expensive. I wanted to see if I was limiting myself by using it or if the ratings on pdr’s Site were right. Who are you guys using for image hosting?

Tapatalk. It’s a mobile app you can download for free. Easiest way to post pictures, by far.

There are threads discussing this topic as well.

Welcome to the site.