Yet another 6.4 build in a Mega cab though
Really starting this to get some last pieces of advice before I send everything off to machining at the end of the month. I've done reaseach and read a lot but can't beat the experience here. So here is it.
Bought this Mega cab in the later part of last winter. Short story, it's been a mess. I'm embarrassed to say I trusted people too much and got bit. Was sold to me as a "long rod 6.4" but some electrical issues, that made me think I lost a cylinder, led me to tear the thing apart. Glad I did because I found it to be a decked block, standard length rod version of their 6.4. Along with some other corners cut. I know some would say I could have just ran it but I didn't feel comfortable with a 1300hp goal daily driver and probably higher here and there. So I got another block off Mark and the correct rods from Wagler. Ready to start over. Here is my list so far. Tired to remember everything but my have missed some small things. I have everything except for the few last big items noted that I'm still waiting on to make a final decision. My mind set is, do everything to the block now so I don't have to open it up later to say, fly cut the pistons because I want to swap cams. Or because my goal changes and gets higher. If my budget runs high on the block work. I'm gonna start cutting things I wanted to do to the head down. Trying to stay below 7k for machine work and assembly. Machine work and assembly is going to be down by Millers up in PA and I will be having the Transmission checked out and refreshed by Muldoons Diesel Performance because I don't trust what's suppose to in it. Direction and advice are greatly appreciated. Engine work Clean and prepare block Bore and hone main caps with studs Bore for cam bushings through block Install cam bushings Resurface cylinder block Bore & sleeve cylinder block back to 6.7 std bore 4.2 Crankshaft work Rebalance crank shaft Balance piston/rod/flexplate assemblies Weld on crank shaft gear Cylinder head work (Shelf already cut off for B&B intake) (Interior freeze plugs already tapped and plugged) Clean and pressure check cylinder head Resurface cylinder head cut & o-ring Port & Polish 3-angle valve job Replace valve guides Install over-sized valve seats Install HD Inconel exhaust valves through-out (24) Assembly Full assembly of block and head New piston rings New HD cam shaft bushings New HD crank shaft bearings New HD rod bearings (cap end) New seals and gaskets New MLS head gasket Provided (Already have/will have before dropping off) ARP 625 head studs ARP rocker arm studs ARP 12mm main studs and girdle bolts ARP damper bolts Stock girdle D&J block freeze plugs for side and front Rear freeze plug block off plate D&J 6.7 pistons, .100 fly cuts w/ tool steel wristpins (Don’t have, haven’t decided)? 6.7 fluid dampr Wagler .080 longer billet rods (Paid for waiting on Wagler/4 week lead time) Hamilton 188/220 cam Hamilton #103 springs Hamilton extreme duty push rods Hamilton bronze cam retainer Hamilton bolt on cam gear retainer Titanium retainers Keepers 5.9 crank shaft Stock bore 6.7 block 6.7 head Valve seals Timing case Oil pump Rear main housing Fuel (I do have an Industrial Injection 85% over pump, not sure I want to run it with the 12mm) DDP 350% 03-04 5.9 injectors (Waiting on final piston decision) ATS dual cp3’s DDP 12mm cp3 w/ stock 5.9 cp3 Use 5.9 crossovers with the 5.9 injectors? I’ve heard 5.9 injectors could leak when using 6.7 crossovers…? Air (What I have as of right now. Planning on upping to a S485 first then upping the secondary to a S465) Firepunk compunds ED S366/74/1.0 – Billet 6 wheel ED S480/96/1.32 – Billet 7 wheel Turbosmart Hyper-gate 45 WG (May not use) Turbosmart BOV Transmission Goerend TC Full billet Goerend 48RE Suncoast 48re sfi billet flexplate Freshening and installing Phat Shaft output Tunning/Electronics Gordon at Innovative Diesel 06-07 5.9 ECM |
And some pictures to compensate for all that reading.
http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...psyctdezaq.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshmqbur88.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...psp1bvjm4p.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...psnxaeudt5.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...psdcflsig4.jpg http://i397.photobucket.com/albums/p...psyikk5iqt.jpg |
Sick build and beautiful Shepherd!
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Thanks, hoping to have it ironed out and running sooner then later! She's a great pup for sure. I can piss away all the money I want on this thing and she can't complain haha
*edit* Sorry about the list as well everyone. A lot was copied from my check list so some of the pointless, obvious stuff is on there. |
The 5.9 injector crossover tubes have been superseded with the 6.7 style of I'm not mistaken.
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Please do something about the chrome grill
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I may be talking outta my arse on this as my level of interaction on this level of build is on CompD and has never been hands on... with that said, is DDP the best option on the injectors? (I'm unsure if you meant you had them or were waiting to buy)
And I also am not aware of the 5.9 tubes leaking with 6.7 injectors. |
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As for the tubes from what I've read and not experienced I see guys that swap over to 6.7 fuel system complain about it. As with anthing though there's just as many that say there's no problems. It's like the which head studs debates |
DDP is awesome. Top of the line company with very fair pricing.
Don't overthink the piston thing man, those D&J steel ring land slugs are huge bucks. And overkill imo for a block that isn't going to see enormous numbers like some of the deck plate motors out there. Those QSB's are a good choice, but nothing wrong with a nice new set of stock 6.7 pistons with flycuts!! You didn't mention a power goal, or why your going to be using the truck for |
1300hp Daily driver.
DDP common rail stuff must be different than their mechanical injectors. However like I said, I have no experience with them. |
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Would it even all that matter if I'm going to coat them anyways? You know if the stock pistons are prone to cracking? 1300, maybe a bit more, would be a number I'd like to hit here and there on a max effort tune so to speak but drive around lower. On 35's might be tougher to hit that but that's part of my reasoning for keeping the charges on the smaller side and putting money into internal hard parts to keep it together. If that makes sense. |
Mechanical DDP stuff for me has just always been a little warmer and smokey. However it's a different ball game. That's why I was asking.
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Sounds exactly like the 6.4 build I'm wanting to do. I'm going to use my 2006 5.9 head so I can utilize my pretty much brand new exergy injectors along with Standard QSB industrial 6.7 Pistons to keep bowl and spray pattern close to the same.
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Don't waste money on coating pistons, I've heard they eventually flake off the skirts and plug up the rings, pretty sure pumphrey talked about it on his podcast with street diesel power. Clearances throughout the engine (especially top end) should be appropriate for a compound turbo 1300hp engine, that's important.
Anything over that number with a 6.7 is risky with out a thick sleeve, or deck plate especially with compound turbo imo... |
I've read about messing with the steam holes too but haven't dug deep enough to get a good picture in my mind or reasoning on how it works.
Had 24hr duty last night so spent a long time on the piston thing messaging and bothering guys elsewhere who are running 6.4's in this setup. Also read a good thread from 4 years ago about spray angle and cone profile. So the QSB is going to be the route I'm gonna take too. No coatings but fly cuts just incase I decide on running a different cam down the road. Now to order them. I've been looking at a place called Enterprise Engine Performance out of Ohio probably going to call tomorrow if I a get chance. Also Emailed the machine shop today again to get a better, more accurate quote. |
Enterprise is a good place to go 👍🏻 Les with silver Bullet tuning likes the QSB design and late 5.9 cone angle injector. Lavon also used that setup as well, almost positive that's what he is still currently using
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Enterprise will take care of you, I'm actually about 95% sure the Drew of D&J used to work there before he started his own shop.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk |
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Very sweet truck BTW. Are you running no front swaybar, or was that just an intermediate picture? |
That's good to hear. I'll call tomorrow then so I can get the pistons here.
Compression was a concern too. I meant to put it in the top I wanted to stay at stock. So I'll cut that out too! The original 6.4 that was in the truck was supposedly lower compression and hated the cold. I'd rather not have that on this one. I'll have to look at the converter again but I wanna say the stall was higher. It was written on it just didn't take note. The original owner daily drove and towed with the truck on a 476/87. I haven't had a sway bar in probably 4 years now. Coming in and out of trails or roads is super smooth. Towed aross the country without one and never had any issues. |
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