Advice on buying a 2010 to 2012
I'm looking at buying a 2010 to 2012 crew cab long bed with a g56. I was just looking for some opinions on these trucks. And what to look for as in truck specific like problems they are know for and so on. Thanks in advance.
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I have a '12 with the g56 with 120k on it now. Bought it a year ago with 100k. It's deleted and tuned is all. The stock clutch wouldn't take even the extra power of the tune. I went to the south bend dual disk 3250. 3250gk is the part number. I run 7 full quarts of Schaffers 50w trans oil in it. I had the nasty growl and rattle till I just changed the fluid and put that in.
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They introduced traction and stability control in 2012 and it gets annoying. If I don't turn off the system the vehicle completely loses power in the event of wheel slip. This happened once when I was pulling out on a wet road with oncoming traffic.
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IMO, I'd get a 13+ so you can get the Uconnect screen. I didn't realize how much I can't live without that until I had it.
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Chris |
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The big upgrades in 2013 were the interior, front end redesign (better for daily/high mileage stuff, worse for full on performance), and the addition of DEF (which gave much better throttle response on a stock truck). Quote:
https://phoenixandroidradios.com/pro...-ram-2013-2018 https://www.ceoutlook.com/wp-content...nksWell-GM.jpg |
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My 14 tradesman has the 3.0 radio and that’s plenty for me. Only thing I’d change is Bluetooth and steering wheel audio controls would be nice. But I’m not on the road enough to worry about it
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My 2012 laramie has the nice steering wheel controls, just like the 13+. It has Uconnect and almost as nice of interior components as my buddies dads 13.
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Ive been looking at a 2010 with 120,000 miles, automatic, all stock. Anything i should watch out for with that kinda miles? Are would i be more wise to find a 13+? Ive read where the trans cooling system is better?
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I'd take it for a test drive, get it into 6th gear locked, and do a pull. See if the RPMs rise and blow through the clutches. If so, you're trans is about done.
Check there's no visible head gasket leak (leaking around head on outside, or coolant/oil mixing on inside). Also check cold start. If the injectors are in good shape, it should cold start at around 0F with no grid heater and almost no hesitation. Mine does (and it always surprises me how effortlessly it does). Other than that, they're a pretty good truck. I'd recommend head studs, a fuel system that filters better than stock, and an engine/trans tune/deletes. |
Your'e buying it for the motor. The rest of the truck is mediocre at best.
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What do you hate about the 4th gens? |
Anyone who bashes the newer Rams or says they are cheesy trucks, clearly never has to work on them, verses working on the Fords or GM's
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My favorite body style is the 2nd gen sport, followed by the 4th gen HD. I don't really care for anything else. (Although I do have a soft spot for std cab, flat bed 1st gens) Quote:
I really don't think the 68rfe is as scary as everyone makes it out to be. Keep big torque out of 5th and 6th gear (worst part), and keep the fluid clean. Most issues surround the solenoid pack which is easy to swap, costs $250, and you normally get codes/sporadic behavior before it dies. On top of that, I still haven't had to replace mine. I also just drive it, and don't abuse it. I'm sure it wouldn't like being treated like my 12V. |
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