Little writeup - HE351VE on a VP44 truck
 

I think im the first one to put on a HE351VE (VGT turbo of a 6.7 Cummins) on a VP44 truck at least from what i've known of, reading on the forums... not that its any different than a 12 valve but i guess everyone is trying to be first at something or to break a record... lol

Well i mounted the turbo directly to the manifold, with two nuts and two bolts.
i had the original holes drilled and tapped for a 1/4" tubing plug, and screwed a plug into each hole, and machined the flange flat, and then drilled new holes to fit onto a T3 style manifold, and put studs into the two bottom holes (closest to the engine)
I also had to remove some material on the back side of the manifold so i could put a nut between there, to tighten everything up, pics are rather self explaining.

I cut off the flange of the cast exhaust elbow and welded it to the stock hx35 cast elbow... i wanted to make this a more universal fit, in case i sell it, or install it on another truck. I used a stainless steel 90 degree elbow to go down and forward to the intercooler.
I also used the stock turbo drain.

For vane collar control, a wastegate actuator was used that i bought used of ebay for like 9 bucks, and modified it with a spring so i could override optimum position for fast spool up, with a little electric motor for the exhaust brake. Im not using a stop screw to hold the vanes from fully closed, its adjustable with a nut and locknut on the w/g rod...

Hope this makes sense, i love how the turbo works, it fits the stock airbox, and it shouldnt be hard to swap to another truck, as i made it now pretty universal, it wont hit the shock tower on a 4x4.

My truck has Adrenaline w/ pulse and RV 275 injectors. and a BD transmission. Well EGTs used to be very hot, they where at 1600 by 60 mph on lvl 6 from 10,
now they reach 1600 by 80 or more mph.
Truck always smoked on lvl 10 at full boost, now you cant see it smoke at all
and adr shows its making 40 psi boost, on lvl 10
truck is faster now too.
AND i have exhaust brake that i control from in the cab with a ford window switch.
I hope to have a video up soon

Nice work using the stock manifold and making the downpipe work. Clean install.
I wish I had some more time to work on mine.

Thanks
You want to install it on the short box?
BTW do you have more pics of your truck somewhere? looks nice!

Pics of how to machine the turbo by TRENDZ

Yeah, the project is for the short box. It has been turboless for a couple months.

More pics HERE

do you tow? what do you think it would be like towing?

what is your boost off idle and light cruise on the hwy?

does it feel like its choking at all and does it bark?

I'm looking at doing this in place of my 62-65-12 as I have heat issues and it hates towing.

Not to hijack but your 62/65 hates towing?

What is the rest of your setup? You might start a thread, because that should be one quick spooling turbo...

Great work :Cheer:

Very nice install. How do you like it?

bwdt:
I don't tow... just i drive this truck to school (80 miles round trip)
light cruise 65-70 mph mph boost around 7-8 psi, thing really starts to kick in at 15 psi, or loading the engine in OD with lock-up it starts pulling hard at 1500 rpm.
cruising egts are higher then with hx35 though, due to the smaller housing under 15 psi (actuator closed) but once over 15 psi, it runs cooler.

i can easily bark it, but i guess we all will find out how long they last? if this gives out i have an extra one. if i could figure a way to close the actuator slowly while letting of the throttle, could reduce barking, cuz now it snaps closed... (made a underhood video while driving...)
i can adjust both the closed position and the open position... it might be choking a little on the top end (having the stop screw closed a good bit... makes around 40 psi boost

Well we put this turbo in place of a 62/71/14 (first truck in my sig) and spool up is WAY better, egts hotter and power is a little less, might need more tuning, my bro drives that truck all the time...
Sold the SPS62 for 1500 to get a turbo for around $100 isnt too bad, and since its not a drag racer, we need good spoolup at this high elevation

I really like the turbo, pulls harder than the hx35 did, and smokes less and runs cooler! This is a good turbo with stock spool up, but flowing more air

If you are controlling it with boost, could you T the line so you have one needle valve and one larger check valve, then T back together to the actuator.

Boost will go through the check valve opening the housing quickly like you want, then when you let go of the throttle the check valve should close and the very small needle valve will make the housing shut slower eliminating bark. Just an Idea I have been thinking of, not really sure if it will work.

Looks Good 12valve.

Dang fnschlaud4620 I was just thinking that when I got to your post. I believe that would work to keep the barking down.
I wonder how one of these would work in a twin setup? I think I've got my hands on a couple of takeoffs at a dealer.
This is the best looking setup I've seen yet, I wonder if one could use one of the cheap external wastegates off of ebay and just use the top?

Thanks!
Here's a video

Thats the best video ever on the VGT good job man.:rockwoot:

where are you guys getting these turbos so cheap?

Look up Gibson he has a pair he's trying to sell. Some people have sources to get these turbos directly from the dealer.

Great video. I like the use of the actuator for the exhaust brake. I may have to set one of these up for my brother's 94 5spd. He would love the exhaust brake.

nice video, curious why you dont wire the exhaust brake into the foot brake too, then when you're towing you can flip the switch on and any time you hit the brakes the turbo will help you brake as well automaticly so you dont have to keep hitting a switch.

That under hood video is priceless. Do you think a softer spring on the gate actuator, that or even a progressive spring if possible could cure the higher egt's on the low end and the spike at 1500 rpms to smooth out the power curve. Also what about a light return spring opposing the actuator spring to allow the housing to close a little slower?

that would be slick.. you could just pick up power from a tailight power wire maybe?