redneck fuel system
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Not to be out done by sombrero man, I have been working on my own fuel system. So far tonight I have got my pickup for the tank fabed up. I as wanting a big screen on the pickup to prefilter the fuel, yet still not suck air before the tank is empty.
My pickup is a 100 micron screen the size of a coke can with a 3/4" pipe fitting on top. It has a bypass on the bottom if the screen gets plugged. It is inside a 20oz can of pineapples that I stole from my wife. A little JB weld and a washer, and it looks pretty good in my Jeff Foxworthy view of the world. This is the second time Ive re-engineered the fuel module. The first time I had the can rip off where it screwed on the cap. I fixed it then with -6 aeroquip AQP and it was still in good shape when I took it off. I am now going to have one strip of the metal part hanging down to mount the sender on and the strainer will be sitting on the bottom of the tank on a stiff -8 TFE hose. |
Pineapples, eh? How does it handle starting with less than a 1/4 tank? What lift pump(s) are you running with it?
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My tank pick-up looks like a big ass bulkhead fitting screwed into the back side of the tank with a -10 hose straight into a FASS.
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Wow, is that even on a dirt floor?
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First.. go fast parts are more important than concrete.
How does it start?? well, there aint 1 fuel line on the truck yet, or the filters, so It wont start. Keeping with my hilljack way of life, my lift pump can be found at your local Co-Op. A Shur Flo 2088-131-145 sprayer pump. It will push 3.6 gallons per minute open and about 2 gpm at 50psi. If it aint enough to hold pressure, I can add a second and still be cheeper than most setups. |
The problem I see with your pick-up can:
If the can is 6" tall: The FIRST time you fill the tank: -Air will be trapped under the can, until your pump sucks it all away.:doh: The FIRST time you have less than a 6" of fuel in the tank, and you launch hard, or turn a corner, your pump will suck air under the can again, because the pump will not HOLD the can full of fuel. You may as well have a pick-up tube that is 6" off the bottom of your tank. If the can was mounted outside, and UNDER the tank, it would be excellent, cuz then it would act as a sump for fuel. I am only trying to save you a little bit of time here. It's good to see people trying new idea's. Don't take my comments as a bash...I am only trying to help.:Cheer: |
%$^%$ gotta think about it some more
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My 12-valve runs fine with an OEM mechanical lift pump and a 1" copper pipe pickup tube in the tank with a modified sending unit assembly.
The 1" pipe necks down to 1/2" pipe where I sweat on a 1/2" elbow - and then I sweat a 1/2" sweat to MPT and then sweat a FPT to 3/8" barb fitting on there. It has been like this for over a year and I haven't had any issues with it. The truck fires off just fine no matter how long it has been sitting or how cold it is...so I don't have any leaks to make leakdown an issue. Shortly after I got it back on the road with the BOMBed pickup mod, I ran the tank down to ~1/4 and it stumbled a bit when I stepped hard on the soot pedal. Since then, I don't let the tank get much below 3/8 full... I think the 1" pipe moved around after install and it isn't in there straight...who cares...it works and only cost a few bucks instead of buying a whole new sending unit just because the OEM feed/return steel lines rotted out and were leaking. Beers, Matt |
I am almost done with it. Did you know that the front fuel plug is in there really tight. my MG31 wouldn't budge it and had to get my XT7100 impact to break my 10mm allen socket. Then broke an extractor, but I did finally get it out. At least the snap-on man will fix everything I break.
I recall readin someone said a -10 would fit. I just used a -8 and it is as tight as I would want it to the gear case. Also did you know they make filters with a 1"x14 thread and 1"x12 thread? And a 14 thread per inch filter will go on a 12tpi mount? :bang |
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I got it done last night. I trned the key and once I found the fitting I didnt tighten, it seemed to work just fine.
The injector return line. I flaired it and put a 3- -4 union on it and ran it to the return line. The return line. I took the line that went from the filter to the pump and flaired one end to -6 and bent it a little to make it fit. The supply lines are -8 teflon hose (nitrous line), and the return is made from -6 AQP rubber line that I recycled from the last time I plumbed it. The pump is a Shurflo 2088-313-145 diaphragm sprayer pump. It came with rubber isolators for the bolts, but it goes from loud to really loud when it gets pressure. But when the truck is running, it aint noticeable. The filters. Did you know that a 1" 12 thread filter mound will take a 1"14 thread filter. :doh: It dont leak so it will work for now. |
That's a bunch of blingy hoses there, Mr. Redneck!
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I was gonna build it out of aeroquip from summit, but I priced it from my local parker store, and it was a little cheaper from them. And I didnt get all of the wires stuck in my fingers from making the hoses.
Ive had a fuel line blow out on me at the first race at US131. And I dont plan on it happening again. |
Looks pretty slick, Skippy.
What's with the big line on the fuel plug on the front of the P7100? I've seen folks do dual feeds and/or dual returns on the sides of the pump... Beers, Matt |
That was the easiest way to feed it. It seems to have enough fuel, it smokes at 100+psi at 4500rpms. I dont have a pressure gauge yet.
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I wonder where he got the sprayer pump fuel system idea from. :thankyou2:
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Well the pump idea was his first several years ago, but the pineapple can and JB weld was all mine. Who's more hilljack? :poke:
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I was asked for pics with labels.
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Thankyou. and I'm glad you didn't leave out the Nos line.
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He has a very valid point here. |
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