Degree wheel for Cummins.
- Thread starter RonA
- Start date
Signature600
THA MAN!
Larger view?? Why? I can already see if from across the room!!
Chris
Chris
Got Smoke?
New member
I was trying to remember how I did mine. Click on the picture for a larger view.
How much does that piece cost? Would suck to buy that just to need it once!
Signature600
THA MAN!
Honest...before, it was taking up every bit of my 22" monitor
But now, it's small. Looks good too!
Chris
But now, it's small. Looks good too!
Chris
mech2161
I have a secret.
There not very expensive. Cheep compared to what could happen as many others have found out.
Look Here.
Look Here.
mech2161
I have a secret.
Got Smoke?
New member
Oh wow those aren't very expensive....I was thinking they were.
Thanks a lot Kevin!!
srt cummins
New member
This is the wheel I have been looking for.
mech2161
I have a secret.
Oh me to, it's been years since I did even a gasser. It's not as hard as most people think. I had no choice, Greg wouldn't sell me the cam if I didn't degree it. He helped me a lot.
Read the instructions, then read them again. Always double check your numbers. With all the problems I've seen lately people need to do this.
srt cummins
New member
Just curious if the numbers that came with the cam were lost I use the degree wheel to find the right spot? I don't have to send it to the company that made it cause I have been told I need to.
mech2161
I have a secret.
If they will tell you what degree the cam should be installed at why would they want it back? Centerline and valve to piston clearance is what you need to look for when you install it.
I had to make or modify a hole in the wheel to attach it to the balancer. The degree wheel had three holes and the balancer has four. It came with a couple bushings for the center hole. Just make sure it doesn't slip. Either one should work.
Hamilton Cams
ignorant
I think people make it harder than it has to be.
Ron, we use the pro wheel pictured above as the larger diameter is going to give you a better resolution for degreeing in a cam. As far as a drive hub, it doesn't have to be super technical, just cut the center large enough so that at least one crank bolt can be tightened. Get the engine to approximate TDC and run screws through the degree wheel into the rubber on an old balancer.
Use a piece of wire and a 10mm bolt to mark TDC on the wheel so that you can make small adjustments after TDC is located with the Dial indicator.
As mentioned above run the piston .010" from TDC and mark wheel on the way up, run it past TDC .010" from TDC and mark it again. In between those is true TDC. If you reverse the engine to find the opposite measurement you will be off a few degrees due to the lash you are taking up in the gears before the camshaft moves. THe engine never runs backwards so that is a bad way to measure.
On the intake mark the degree wheel .010" from max-lift on the opening ramp and on the closing ramp. The exact midpoint between those readings is TDC. For most of our cams we just use intake centerline to verify correct installation.
To measure piston to valve clearance, set valves on cyl. 1 but leave the adjuster nuts loose.
On overlap or TDCE when both valves are open, put a dial indicator on the valve retainer and zero it out at TDC or wherever you desire to take a measurement(usually 5 degrees BTDC, 0 TDC, and 5 degrees ATDC) start to open the valve with the adjuster tightening and stop when you feel the valve hit the piston. (don't tighten it till the adjuster comes out!) Take a reading and this is your true piston to valve clearance at X degrees. It is much easier than using putty or other crazy methods.
Zach
Ron, we use the pro wheel pictured above as the larger diameter is going to give you a better resolution for degreeing in a cam. As far as a drive hub, it doesn't have to be super technical, just cut the center large enough so that at least one crank bolt can be tightened. Get the engine to approximate TDC and run screws through the degree wheel into the rubber on an old balancer.
Use a piece of wire and a 10mm bolt to mark TDC on the wheel so that you can make small adjustments after TDC is located with the Dial indicator.
As mentioned above run the piston .010" from TDC and mark wheel on the way up, run it past TDC .010" from TDC and mark it again. In between those is true TDC. If you reverse the engine to find the opposite measurement you will be off a few degrees due to the lash you are taking up in the gears before the camshaft moves. THe engine never runs backwards so that is a bad way to measure.
On the intake mark the degree wheel .010" from max-lift on the opening ramp and on the closing ramp. The exact midpoint between those readings is TDC. For most of our cams we just use intake centerline to verify correct installation.
To measure piston to valve clearance, set valves on cyl. 1 but leave the adjuster nuts loose.
On overlap or TDCE when both valves are open, put a dial indicator on the valve retainer and zero it out at TDC or wherever you desire to take a measurement(usually 5 degrees BTDC, 0 TDC, and 5 degrees ATDC) start to open the valve with the adjuster tightening and stop when you feel the valve hit the piston. (don't tighten it till the adjuster comes out!) Take a reading and this is your true piston to valve clearance at X degrees. It is much easier than using putty or other crazy methods.
Zach
kino_fab
KTPA Tech Official
So this is how anyone can degree any cam if they do not have a cam card? Does every cam company use the centerline measurement on the cam card? Reason I am asking is that the Cam that is in Lynn's 2wd puller has a used Haisley cam that I think we were told came out of the Detroked truck a few years ago and we do not have a cam card to go by. Thanks for any help.
mech2161
I have a secret.
This will give you the center line number. Most manufacturers will give you the center line they recommend the cam to be installed at. Advancing the cam will increase bottom end. Retarding will increase top end. Without knowing where to start you need to check valve to piston clearance.