Goerend Full Billet 47rh conversion DONE!!

tony597fitter

tony597fitter

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Well the NV4500 to Goerend full billet 47rh conversion is DONE!! I had some sidetracks along the way, but its done. I had everything in yesterday, took it for a spin and when I got back it was puking ATF from between the t-case and trans.. I couldnt get a trans output shaft seal last night, so I got one today, and changed the trans and t-case seal. Talked with Dave Goerend and he said the seals for the tras are pathetic, and to RTV the trans and tcase together.

I also found out the TV/kickdown cables are different from the 12 valve and 24 valve. The 24s are about an inch longer. I had a 12v cable and swapped it out and all is good.

I must say its a drag racers dream. I didnt know what I was actually missing!!
The lockup switch is friggin awesome, I flip it on in 2nd ger and it burns the tires off!!

Thanks for everyones help, especially Diesel Dummy for the swap.

Thanks again,
Tony
 
Tony,
Congrats on the swap. Are you having a hard time forgetting that you no longer have a clutch?
 
Its not a bad seal in the tranny leaking if it's like mine. It's because the input on your t-case isn't penetrating the seal. The 47rh seal is much deeper in there. At least that was my issue when I swapped over to a 47rh.
 
B18B1LS1 said:
Its not a bad seal in the tranny leaking if it's like mine. It's because the input on your t-case isn't penetrating the seal. The 47rh seal is much deeper in there. At least that was my issue when I swapped over to a 47rh.
Click to expand...

I changed the seal and it doesnt leak anymore. I called Dave Goerend this morning and he said that the seals Chrysler has on the transmissions are pathetic.
I also changed the tcase, with a 241DHD out of a 95, so both the trans and case are out of a 95.

relay93 said:
Tony,
Congrats on the swap. Are you having a hard time forgetting that you no longer have a clutch?
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I havent driven it long enough yet. I am burned out from the swap, and plus my hip is killing me from the surgery. If my DR. knew what I was doing he would literally kill me.
The little bit I did drive it, it seems like I am forgeting to do something with my left leg.:hehe:
 
This is a job that I NEED to do also....

I gave gotten the schizz of rowing the boat when all I want to do is stomp and steer...

Congrats Tony!.....Andy
 
You're not the only one. I put two new seals and a speedy sleeve still leaked. So I siliconed it and now it just kinda seeps through but not a constant drip, so I said the hell with it! Just matches every thing else.
 
Hammer said:
This is a job that I NEED to do also....

I gave gotten the schizz of rowing the boat when all I want to do is stomp and steer...

Congrats Tony!.....Andy
Click to expand...

Andy,
Its not that hard of a job. Only parts neede besides the trans is:
Auto trans mount (not the rubber piece)

Tcase input shaft for an auto.

shorten rear drive shaft (I went with a one piece 4"-.095 wall) so far no vibration up to 110 on the highway. Makes removing driveshaft SIMPLE!! 4 bolts on the pinion.

Shorten front drive shaft

TV/kickdown cable

Some kind of shifter (I have a B&M floor shifter)
Lockup toggle switch, Brad Ponci has me doing a Hobbs switch, so lockup comes on by itself at around 40-42mph. But I will still have manual override toggle for drag racing.

O/D toggle switch. Also going to do the same as the lockup switch with the Hobbs switch.

Thats it!

I'm doing the Hobbs switches so if someone need to use the truck the can get in and drive it without having to flip switches.

lee01dg said:
You're not the only one. I put two new seals and a speedy sleeve still leaked. So I siliconed it and now it just kinda seeps through but not a constant drip, so I said the hell with it! Just matches every thing else.
Click to expand...

You arent kidding!
My goal this winter is to fix ALL the leaks.
I only have 3 left. Tappet cover, PPump seal and oil pan.
 
kalder said:
How are the Hobbs switches plumbed? I'm guessin an RH would be an easier swap than an RE?
Click to expand...

RHs are MUCH easier for a swap. They require NO power or computer.

As far as the Hobbs switches, they go in the governor port and in the O/D port. The hobbs switches are adjustable. You need to run a pressure gauge from the port to see what the pressure is at whatever speed you want to lockup or go into O/D. You then adjust the Hobbs switch with shop air to that pressure to activate.

The wiring is easy. Out of the plug, one side goes to one pole of the Hobbs switch, and the other goes to ground.
If you want to add a manual override toggle you tee in another wire that comes from the plug (thats going to the Hobbs switch) and that will go to one side of the toggle and the other side goes to ground.

I have to give ALL credit to Brad Ponci. He is one smart man when it comes to this stuff.
 
Tony, do you have a wiring diagram of the O/D switch? I want to throw one in my truck and I am no electrician but was able to figure the lockup switch out on the first try.
 
Thats awsome your up and running. Sorry about not getting back to you. Yesterday was very busy trying to finish jobs and get ready for our diesel days. I will be at the shop and available to take calls. Have a good one!
 
You've went with some very good guys but the auto swap isn't automatic (ha).....still, you're on the huge hp forever path.....whatever you can throw at it!!
 
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