jfaulkner
Douche Hunter
Damn. A guy can't get no love around here.
At least yours in the correct flavor of truck. Paccar only bought Pete in 1958 as a place to use all the second rate parts that didn't stand up to KW quality.
Damn. A guy can't get no love around here.
At least yours in the correct flavor of truck. Paccar only bought Pete in 1958 as a place to use all the second rate parts that didn't stand up to KW quality.
Damn. A guy can't get no love around here.
I'm just going to have it Cerakoted like all the rest of these parts, and all the others we have done. Only reason the manifold isn't done is the local guy we have do them had a bad batch of ceramic and it wouldn't stick and the truck needed to go have the deck plate made. Got more and it's good again. Don't really care about insulation just want it to stay shiny.
Before you say the stuff doesn't last you have to remember nothing is forever. When the coating starts to change color you have to scrub it with a fine scotch brite pad to bring it back. I see guys complain all the time how the polished ceramic coating doesn't last and every one of them bolted the part on and never touched it again. If you want hassle free you have to go with flat black. The polished isn't made for the temp these parts see but will easily last for years. When it finally fails you blast it off and re-coat.
I haven't heard if it cleaned up the smoke haze. Wasn't bad just could see a small trail on a hill with the single and the pyro would climb. Now he can hold it on the wood all day.
They still had open spots laat week...
I'd be interested to know what he's running for timing, fuel settings and nozzles.
IIRC, the timing in my dads motor is set at half a hole advanced, stock nozzles and I don't remember where the pump is set at. He says on a hard pull there is a small trail about half the length of the trailer and he HS to kick the fan on as soon as he starts the pull. Not sure where he's at with exhaust temps.
Is the bottom charger in that setup in the factory location on the manifold? The HX just sits on top of the motor correct?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd be interested to know what he's running for timing, fuel settings and nozzles.
IIRC, the timing in my dads motor is set at half a hole advanced, stock nozzles and I don't remember where the pump is set at. He says on a hard pull there is a small trail about half the length of the trailer and he HS to kick the fan on as soon as he starts the pull. Not sure where he's at with exhaust temps.
Is the bottom charger in that setup in the factory location on the manifold? The HX just sits on top of the motor correct?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Friend is playing with an aftercooled 1985 3406B. Had an 80mm Borg single and decided to throw an HX on top. 100* cooler on a hard pull, 200* cooler on smaller rolling hills in TN and KY.
We're running a turbo dating service. Every one of them needs a friend to work with.
What size HX is that? Doesn't look much larger than the s480?!? Is it an HX60 or hx80 with a large compressor in it? I've been tossing the idea of twinning my brother's '88 W9 with a 3406 in it, just wasn't sure how big of a compressor inlet and turbine I'd need to actually gain anything....Or go too big and make it run worse...
1340*. Going to swap a coated manifold and try it again. Just curious if it will still glow
I'm just going to have it Cerakoted like all the rest of these parts, and all the others we have done. Only reason the manifold isn't done is the local guy we have do them had a bad batch of ceramic and it wouldn't stick and the truck needed to go have the deck plate made. Got more and it's good again. Don't really care about insulation just want it to stay shiny.
Before you say the stuff doesn't last you have to remember nothing is forever. When the coating starts to change color you have to scrub it with a fine scotch brite pad to bring it back. I see guys complain all the time how the polished ceramic coating doesn't last and every one of them bolted the part on and never touched it again. If you want hassle free you have to go with flat black. The polished isn't made for the temp these parts see but will easily last for years. When it finally fails you blast it off and re-coat.
Where do you have this done at? I've been charged considering dressing mine up. The only place around here that does high temp is Swain Tech and the only color they do it in is white.... I guess I could get it done in white then paint with grill paint.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
From my experience, yes they still glow (at least on a gasser).
Was that the Zanesville or Coshocton AK steel?
There are 3 places around here that does the coating. These were done a few miles from the shop by the same guy who powdercoated the engine. Can do black, gray or this polished.
I'm not usually into the polished but I do like the looks of this. What is the brand name of the ceramic coat used? I'll call around to a couple powder coaters locally and see if they use this product.
On a side note, where do you buy those flexible pieces from that you have on the charge air side and on the exhaust side and your v-bands?
I'm not usually into the polished but I do like the looks of this. What is the brand name of the ceramic coat used? I'll call around to a couple powder coaters locally and see if they use this product.
On a side note, where do you buy those flexible pieces from that you have on the charge air side and on the exhaust side and your v-bands?
Had these done at Central Connecticut Coatings. Might be closer for you
What kind of bmep/cylinder pressures are some of these engines making? At what point do you have to go beyond just setting the protrusion correctly and start going with custom stuff?