and yet another injector question.....

triton

triton

Scarlet Fever
what do you guys know about Extruded Hone ? Or maybe, it's a little knows secret ?

I can't see paying $1200 or $1500 for some injectors so I got to looking around.
For $43.00 each, I'll have honed tips good for 120hp. Their reputation is quite good and well known in the racing world.

I talked in length to someone there and it seems all the 1K plus injector are that because of the mark up these shops are putting on them.

Anyway... if they don't work out well, I'm only out a couple hundred as opposed to over $1000

If this post steps on the dealers toes because of injector pricing... plz feel free to delete it.
 
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I'm sure getting the stockers extrude honed will make a great deal of power/performance. But my opinion is that someone like DonM and his flux injectors are the only way to go BECAUSE he uses some mystical injector tip that is supposed to be so much STRONGER than stock material. Last thing you want is to crack a tip or fracture the injector due to pressure spikes. The extra money spent is cheap insurance IMHO.... Losing an injector tip can ruin your soon to be new mega-hp-Cummins....
 
trik396 said:
I'm sure getting the stockers extrude honed will make a great deal of power/performance. But my opinion is that someone like DonM and his flux injectors are the only way to go BECAUSE he uses some mystical injector tip that is supposed to be so much STRONGER than stock material. Last thing you want is to crack a tip or fracture the injector due to pressure spikes. The extra money spent is cheap insurance IMHO.... Losing an injector tip can ruin your soon to be new mega-hp-Cummins....
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It's my understanding that the stock tips are what DDP and Don uses....the reason for the core charge. Any tip can crack understand the right circumstances. I'd say the stock tips are pretty strong too. My #4 held up to the damage you saw in there.

I will look into it more.
 
Interesting topic, but If this thread goes in the crapper, dont be suprised when we lock it. Injector threads have a tendancy t go the way of transmission threads, so lets keep this one on the up and up ladies and gentlemen
 
i hope you marked the sticks when you took them out. no amount of expert advice on this site will keep your feed tubes from leaking when you go back together. I have 3 trucks right now with world famous F1 sticks and all are leaking. if your sticks are good, then have those sticks modified. at least you know what those have been through. $.02
 
triton said:
It's my understanding that the stock tips are what DDP and Don uses....the reason for the core charge.
Click to expand...

DDP hones stock injectors as far as I know.
F1 starts from a new blank tip (made from stronger material) and EDM's the holes where they want them!

Personally, I would always go the stronger route for something that will be seeing 30K psi pressures...but what do I know, I'm a 12v guy:eek:wned:

Chris
 
anything over 28000 psi constitutes failure. You were a little high, but not bad for a 12V guy. I've got a set of DON M's, extrude hone'ed and EDM'ed tips and I am going to do an unbiased inspection on the quality of them. I am having all flow test and pressure tested. I am doing this because I seem to be inheriting alot of trucks with leaking inj's and all these guys say they are DON M's. I am going to find out if it is the consumer's fault or just low quality parts. Guys the feedtubes seat in the inj bodies. if you get them mixed up, they WILL leak. Just a matter of time "when" not "maybe".
 
The ones you've seen that are leaking, are they using any better fuel filtration over stock filter?? Firm believer that our fuel CANNOT be too clean and I run two 2 micron filters in line. High pressure and dirty fuel = bad injectors...
 
I bought a set of used 370 injectors from a running truck...that ran damn good btw, I had them cleaned and popped and they all leaked. I raised the pops a bit and now they smoke less than my stock 215's

go figure??
 
2 of the trucks are running GDP.(which I perfer) both have the 2 micron filter systems. 1 is running a FASS and it has 2 micron filter also. Fuel can never be too clean. I also have been recommending that people add a quart of the cheapest SAE 30 non-det motor oil you can find to your tank before filling up. Lubes the hell out your pump and sticks. I picked up 2mpg over that ulsd by itself. I have been doing this for 2 years in my truck with no issues. I have recommended to countless guys and all have thanked me.$.02
 
What's your feelings on using ashless 2cycle oil made for burning. Alot of guys use the stuff every tank. Might leave less deposits than a 30wt...???
I've been using it for around 15k miles.
 
KEN the CR is a different animal than a 12V. After you torque a feedtube it seats to that body. if you mix or R&R one without the other you are asking for trouble. if you just change nozzles, but make sure you get the right body with the right feedtube you are good to go.$.02
 
Signature600 said:
Factory, right? I've heard that Don has tested his injectors to over 35K psi without failure...but I can't remember where?

Chris
Click to expand...
TEN4, factory bosch specs. most of the time crossover tubes will split. Have seen 3 split at once and cut through a hood like swiss cheese.
 
trik396 said:
What's your feelings on using ashless 2cycle oil made for burning. Alot of guys use the stuff every tank. Might leave less deposits than a 30wt...???
I've been using it for around 15k miles.
Click to expand...
both are fine. 2cycle oil is more expense. have removed my injectors twice in 40000 miles and no deposits. scoped cyl's and pistons look great. have my CP3 off and torn apart right now. Barrels, gearbox,etc... all look brand new.$.02
 
no problem grasshopper. stay humble like me. I am here to help when and if I can. the cummins guys anyway.:hehe:
 
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