First gen purchase and build to come and progress

I would never recommend full cut delivery valves for a street driven engine. You cannot tune the smoke out with them and it's just plain irresponsible to smoke up the street anymore, especially with a young person driving.

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j.fondler said:
you just sound ignorant. don't mean to offend you, i'm just telling you why it keeps coming up. no one here is grammatically perfect, but punctuation makes reading a post much easier.

this is compd, when people stop giving you crap, thats when you start to worry! lol

if you're set on anything more than 450hp, then you're right, pee pee pump it is. just realize the rest of the truck was built for 160hp, lol.

and DO NOT let your 12v idle for 30 minutes to an hour.
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No offense taking just looking for valuble info not English lit 101 :Cheer:

Yes that's my goal why not let the truck warm up from cold start and cool down below 300 on pyro? Just curious?
 
The cool down's not the problem.

Due to the efficiency and cooling system of our engines will not allow the engine to warm up quickly enough from idling with no load. My truck doesn't build enough heat for the heater to be warm on a cold morning until I've driven about 10 miles. When chamber temps are below 250*-300* the fuel doesn't completely burn and will wash the oil from the cylinder walls. Once it's at operating temp idling is not an issue.
 
badbowtie said:
I would never recommend full cut delivery valves for a street driven engine. You cannot tune the smoke out with them and it's just plain irresponsible to smoke up the street anymore, especially with a young person driving.

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Definetly true however if I drive it I want to see smoke lol:Cheer:
 
BigPapa said:
The cool down's not the problem.

Due to the efficiency and cooling system of our engines will not allow the engine to warm up quickly enough from idling with no load. My truck doesn't build enough heat for the heater to be warm on a cold morning until I've driven about 10 miles. When chamber temps are below 250*-300* the fuel doesn't completely burn and will wash the oil from the cylinder walls. Once it's at operating temp idling is not an issue.
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Gotcha I still have a lot to learn that's where common rail vs mechnical injection is different I guess so at ot is oil coking an issue after long trips? If just shut right down like on st?
 
sootie said:
Great. Douches like you that roll coal have contributed to the demise of our sport...
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Try again not me Only on closed courses in mexico never on public roads in usa seems more like your screen name lends more toward demise hummmmm?
 
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I'm guessing on your meaning here:

Duramax2006 said:
so at ot (Operating Temperature) is oil coking an issue after long trips? If just shut right down like on st(???)?
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Coking will occur if you shut down before pre-turbo EGT's are over 300*-350* no matter how far you've driven. Let the truck idle before shut down until it cools below that.
 
That's what I meant. I usually let my duramaxs warm up any where from 30min to an 1 hour on cold start in the morning and upon arrival to any where work, home, and related trips as well as family trips to north ga 5hours plus I let it cool to 250 or less before shut down. I was curious about the difference in the cummins platform I'm looking to start building with my son after purchasing it back. I see your point on the temps just curious as to why they don't warm up easier at idle makes since though they say the older trucks use load to heat up and cool down faster causing the inefficient burn. So my next question is are the .093 ss lines and 5x14 injectors going to be a hassle to tune? they want be to smokey on the street will they if I use a afc live on the p7100 to control fueling?
 
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Those lines will cause nothing but problems on a street truck. They tend to crack, and you don't want bigger lines than you need. You lower your timing but installing those lines and gain nothing at the power level you are trying to build. 5x014 are probably one of the most widely used injector size around, a good set can be tuned quite clean on the street.

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I doubt you'll see 250* pre-turbo with the truck running before shut down. 300*-350* will be fine.

X2 on the lines. Stay with the stockers.
 
badbowtie said:
I would never recommend full cut delivery valves for a street driven engine. You cannot tune the smoke out with them and it's just plain irresponsible to smoke up the street anymore, especially with a young person driving.

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we've been doing iy for years with the truck previously mentioned. Best option? probably not but you can easily drive the 6600lb truck responsibly with very little haze.
 
With the comp cut valves available from places like Infinite Performance there is simply no reason to run a full cut delivery valve on the street, they flow enough to not hold a competition build back but still have a sealing shoulder to prevent the haze and smoke full cuts are notorious for. Many guys have found just like me ,better cleaner power can be had with smaller delivery valves and bigger high quality injectors. It reduces the pulse width of the injection event thus burning more fuel in cylinder.

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Sigh. Time for me to consider a P-Pump for anything more than 450, the old VE just isn't capable I guess.
 
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