New starter, stick with OEM?

6spdCR said:
You went the cheap route and it cost you $60 and your time. Learn from that, put in a new factory starter and be done with it. I have been dealing with major Quality control issues from all aftermarket electronics companies lately.

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Is that the reason it wont crank with the key, but will when shorted?

And where can you find oem? I was just going to grab a napa.

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The reason it won't crank with the key could be a bad trigger wire connection at the starter from the R&R the to rebuild. Or it could also be a internal problem with the contacts that you installed. Maybe just mis alignment so they are not touching when the solenoid pulls in. When you jump the starter you are bypassing all of the above. Napa starters are usually decent, but I have been going crazy warranting failed parts lately and Napa has been one of the sources. Most reman products are all re boxed from over seas regardless of the store brand. Cummins or a Dodge dealership can get you the starter.

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larry b's contacts

and rebuild the OEM if you can swing it... but since mine was beyond repair (cracked ears that bolt on to the flywheel area) the o reily one has worked well for me...

did the above fix with my 12 valves, and will do with my dads..
 
TxDiesel007 said:
larry b's contacts

and rebuild the OEM if you can swing it... but since mine was beyond repair (cracked ears that bolt on to the flywheel area) the o reily one has worked well for me...

did the above fix with my 12 valves, and will do with my dads..
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Larryb was what I used before. Don't think thats my issue anymore.

I got a new battery, the truck starts just fine now, but I still have to jump it at the starter. With the optima it actually fires faster than it ever has.

I think I have bigger problems though.

Now when I turn the truck on:
1. The blower motor runs for 3 seconds and shuts off. will not turn back on until I turn key off and try again.
2. The ABS and Airbag lights are on.
3. The shut off solenoid won't go up on it's own, I have to push it up with my hand. But when I shut the truck off it snaps down like normal.
4. Starter still won't crank with the key.

I tried swapping relays around, no luck.


If you have the slightest clue what the problem is, please throw it out there. I'll try anything. This is back to my DD for now, and I can't be crawling under the truck to start it every time, and I really need the defroster this week. Feel free to pm me too so I get the email faster. Or those with my number call me.
 
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Check your small wires connected at the battery on the positive termini, sounds like those aren't making the best connection.
 
24vriviera said:
Check your small wires connected at the battery on the positive termini, sounds like those aren't making the best connection.
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I've started another thread, it has evolved way beyond this.

And i already checked them lol.

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24vriviera said:
Check your small wires connected at the battery on the positive termini, sounds like those aren't making the best connection.
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Also, I did check those, they look pretty rough, almost falling off. I updated the other thread with all the current problems.

What all do those 2 wires control?
 
May want to pull the body apart and check the widings around the armature. I rebuilt one last year and only cocentrated on the sylenoid ,,, go to a pull, three starts and was back to the place I was before.... just a click. Pulled the started off and completely tore it down and seen some the of the casing were burnt on the wires sets around the armature. If you have a local shop test it for you ... make sure they test start a few times, you can get a good reading even though the starter is not a 100%. From now on I tear mine all they way down, I am using it to start a 2.6 motor in my pulling truck.... not for sure if this helps ..... thanks
 
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Are you running both batteries ... I had the same problem and it was the ground on the second batter was not conneted....even though I did not have the second battery in. There is a ground that runs from the driver side of the truck and ties into the second battery negative cable then to the truck frame. I looked for hours, saw that unhooked and said "no way" ... hooked it up and everything worked fine after that. it is a small wire with a quick clip on it, if you did know what it is , you will miss, or I did anyway .... to me it looked like just a wire for lights or something....hopw this helps
 
Teamfreeman04 said:
Are you running both batteries ... I had the same problem and it was the ground on the second batter was not conneted....even though I did not have the second battery in. There is a ground that runs from the driver side of the truck and ties into the second battery negative cable then to the truck frame. I looked for hours, saw that unhooked and said "no way" ... hooked it up and everything worked fine after that. it is a small wire with a quick clip on it, if you did know what it is , you will miss, or I did anyway .... to me it looked like just a wire for lights or something....hopw this helps
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it's been unhooked for 2 years now. I could look into that, but it's a long long list of problems right now, and I doubt this is it.
 
6spdCR said:
You went the cheap route and it cost you $60 and your time. Learn from that, put in a new factory starter and be done with it. I have been dealing with major Quality control issues from all aftermarket electronics companies lately.

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Click to expand...


I've seen many many many cases of cummins starters getting a couple contacts that cost next to nothing replaced and going on the rest of their happy life. I don't quiet agree with you.
 
Did the O'Reilly Reman, ate 3 in one day... went to the new lifetime warranty and it's ate two since that day... but they are on warranty...

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