[Bersaglieri]

Originally Posted by Destroked 450

This is not a recommendation for anyones mounts but just something we did to eliminate some of the issues we had.
I did chose to use Destroked mounts because they use factory 3rd gen Dodge captured mounts and engine brackets.

The recommended setback to run a mechanical fan is 2 3/4", this is also the amount the crossmember moves when moved to the back holes in the frame on auto trans trucks. In diesel ZF trucks the crossmember is already back requiring mods to the crossmember.
Once we got the engine set in it set at the same 5 degree tilt as the PS engine, but it was to high, the trans and bell housing where jammed into the tunnel shield and the mechanical fan stuck up above the radiator, no way could you remove the back valve cover without lowering the engine or trans.
The hole works looked like chit!
The mounts came with 1/2" plates that bolted to the block allowing the left mount to be moved back to clear the PS pump.

After taking the mounts loose from the engine we lowered the engine down to a 2 1/2 degree tilt, this gave us 3/4"- 1" clearance above the crossmember, moved the trans and bell housing away from the tunnel and centered the mechanical fan in a 7.3 shroud, as a bonus the rear valve cover could be easily removed.
We decided to make a new set of 1/2" plates that would allow us to relocate the engine brackets higher up on the block. Our measurements showed the engine mount brackets needed to move up 1" which allowed the front of the engine to drop nearly 3".
Unfortunately I forgot the take pics of the brackets before installing the engine but here's what they look like with the engine installed.

This is the right side mount, the beige colored bolts hold the 1/2" plate to the block, the black bolts thread into the plate holding the mount, some clearancing on the mount was needed for the back bolts as well as a SHCS bolt used in the bottom hole under the mount. The mounts are moved up 1" and offset to allow room for the bolts

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/kirja0fxx/Image029.jpg[IMG]

This is the only good photo I have of the left side but you can see the mount sets high up on the plate

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/jhwci22px/DSC00483.jpg[IMG]

You can see the oil pan is pretty close to the crossmember and the steering stabilizer clears the pan by less than 1/2"

Note: We did a coil spring front conversion while the engine was out, leaf spring steering stabilizer is located differently.

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/wnbunym91/Image031.jpg[IMG]

Fan centered in the shroud with enough room to remove the fan without pulling the radiator.
We did cut 1/2 - 3/4" off the back of the shroud to better access the belt tensioner.

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/ss8glexyd/IMG_0213.jpg[IMG]


Lowering the engine did require notching the front crossmember for the AC compressor manifold.
We welded in a piece of angle iron upside down to fill in the hole

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/6iujejx9h/DSC00494.jpg[IMG]

In this pic you can see the notch better

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/tx2iqy51h/Image015.jpg[IMG]

Here's a pic of the truck and trailer it's hooked to 90% of the time.
Truck weighs 9500 lbs
Trailer weighs 6500 lbs
Grossing 26000 lbs in the photo.
It's only making around 325 hp but with over 700 lb ft torque below 2700 rpm it pulls like a beast.

[IMG]https://s8.postimg.cc/6k4h8foxx/DSC00525.jpg[IMG]

Thank you very much for detailed info and pics, that's really a huge help! The more I get into this swap the more your changes and setup make sense. I had a couple questions and honestly I would like to bend your ear on the phone if you don't mind PM'ing a number.

I like the idea of lowering the motor for several reasons. One is lowering the center a gravity on a rather top heavy Excursion. The other, which is more important in my eyes, is the ability to remove all the valve covers. Regan Swan makes a set of mounts that use a 2nd gen motor mount but it sets the motor very high. He claims the oil pan can be removed, but honestly this isn't a 7.3L with a bad oil pan, I'd rather have access to the valvestrain. His does not. It also requires the fuel heater be deleted. It looks to me like drilling out holes in a 1/2" plate would be relatively easy. However not having a welder nearby, notching the crossmember would not.

Ford Cummins Engine Swap Mounts 99-04 Super Duty To 12 Valve | eBay


In relation to the motor position, at the original Destroked mount height, did the fan fit, but just wasn't center or was it going to interfere with the shroud?

Another note on mounts, this fella makes a DCS style mount that you weld together yourself. It's about $150 cheaper than DCS but uses polyurethane pucks like DCS. I worry about the amount of vibration transferred into a daily driver - long trip vehicle. I don't want it to shake my fries or coffee out of the cup holder, lol. I am waiting on a repsonse from him about the engine height and access to valve covers.

hiattdesign | Product Page


Also I plan to flip the manifold like yours to clear all the passenger side stuff. I have seen you talk about your downpipe being a modded 6.0L deal. I am wondering if a 1st or 2nd Gen Dodge manifold might reach. OR Maybe I could make my 7.3L one work. Not sure on the 7.3L downpipe lip size or style compared to the turbo I might use.

I read you talking about the K27 turbo on the other forum. It seems to be a "more robust" HX35 that flows better. I am considering that turbo and possibly the HE351cw. I'm not sure which would be more difficult to use on the flipped manifold with a need for a tall down pipe. We won't be towing like you are, but the vehicle is relatively heavy compare to 1st and 2nd gen Dodge trucks so I am hoping to get the turbo right the first time.

Here is the link to the VExcursion thread in the 1st gen area incase you guys don't visit there much.

VExcursion - Daily Driver Edition - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

Originally Posted by Meyers Farms

Yes I kept it in the stock position because I didn't want to move the driveline. I used a set of flex a lite fans from Jegs I believe. I would have to look up the p/n again (if I could find it). The fans have kept the truck cool while towing in the summer, although the controller for them has not been super reliable.

Good info. One reason I worry about electric fans is reliability. Even though we don't tow much, this swap is intended to make the vehicle more reliable for long trips and lots of miles.

Originally Posted by DieselWrencher

My wife drove our excursion for 3 years using toggle switches and she did fine. It wasn't her favorite thing but dealt with it. The 4r100 with a PCS would be ideal. I however, didn't have a 4r100, and the money I saved on adapter, flex plate, and a PCS, I put else where. The compushift takes some tuning too but works pretty well. I have put them on 2 customer builds. I plan to put one on my excursion this fall. Yes, it only controls LO and OD because the trans hydraulically controls 1-3. You don't have to adapt the ford t case. It will bolt right on. You will have to change the input though. I used a dodge tcase because there again, I had no ford units. I still have to put a shifter and front drive shaft on mine. Again, another thing I'm hoping to get finished this fall.

Oh my wife would for sure come to a stop with a locked converter, I can see it now, singing along to Katy Perry, too loud to hear the engine bogging and then BOOM! "I don't know what happened"

Great info on the input shaft swap, good to know they bolt up. The savings from the adapters and stuff is thousands, which helps out if you already have a 47RH. I like the idea of a mostly hydraulic controlled trans and shifts, but since we have the 4R100 I guess we will try it first. I just hope we can get the tuning right. If it causes us issues we can swap it down the road.

I am currently on the fence with PCS vs US Shift Quick4. The Quick4 has a display and interface you can use without a laptop and it also allows you to change between 4 transmission tunes with the click of a button on that interface. So going from a daily drive to towing shift setup is a click away.