Transmission out line, gauges

H

Hoiyay

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Deleting the heat exchanger on my truck; live in Florida and it's always hot so don't need to warm tranny up much.

I plan on installing a remote cooler or two under the bed. Also installing a temp gauge. Which of the tranny lines on the tranny is the out line, or the hot line? Im looking for the fluid coming out of the torque converter right? Is it the line at the front or the further back one?


For routing, correct me if I'm wrong, I want tranny line out (hot) to a gauge....to the front cooler, out the front cooler to aux cooler in bed, back to tranny in right?

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You do know the heat exchanger is also called a fluid "cooler" for a reason right? Deleting it is not a bright idea, sorry to be blunt. As for the guage, you'll drive yourself nuts with a guage at the outlet, because it will fluctuate like crazy. The guage sending unit belongs in the pan.
 
wwentzler said:
You do know the heat exchanger is also called a fluid "cooler" for a reason right? Deleting it is not a bright idea, sorry to be blunt. As for the guage, you'll drive yourself nuts with a guage at the outlet, because it will fluctuate like crazy. The guage sending unit belongs in the pan.
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I'm ok with putting it in the pan if I need to. I know the fluid will fluctuate alot from the out. .but I'd like to know Max temps and how long they are there. I'm fine with putting in pan too.


I understand it's a cooler as well. But I don't want to trust the cooler leaking and filling tranny with antifreeze.

Also, my current one is busted...a new one is $500, an Amazon one is $70...but apparently leaks in 2 weeks.

I'd rather buy 2 extra coolers with fans so it's a self contained system. I've read from a lot of folks they've had success with just one cooler.

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Pan is where you want it trust me haha. I have 2 derales with fans under the bed, and even with fans on full tilt stop and go traffic can be very stressful, in PA to boot. Mine was an auto swap, so 2 derales were easier at the time than a fluid cooler, but I will be adding one this summer more than likely. Just my .02 from my experiences.
 
wwentzler said:
Pan is where you want it trust me haha. I have 2 derales with fans under the bed, and even with fans on full tilt stop and go traffic can be very stressful, in PA to boot. Mine was an auto swap, so 2 derales were easier at the time than a fluid cooler, but I will be adding one this summer more than likely. Just my .02 from my experiences.
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Is that empty or towing? I'll be towing 10k a lot, damn near daily.

What's another option then?

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That's unloaded, I dont tow very often with mine. I would find a way to keep the fluid cooler, but that's just me.
 
wwentzler said:
That's unloaded, I dont tow very often with mine. I would find a way to keep the fluid cooler, but that's just me.
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Oh, well that's not even close for towing.

Well let me ask this. Even on this forum here people are claiming to never see temps above 180, never runs hot, etc, even while towing.

Why are the results all over the place? I've seen people, like you, say it's not enough....then others towing mount Everest and it's never running hot.


The only thing I can find consistent among the deleters that aren't running hot, us they have upgraded to 1/2 lines throughout their set up.

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I can only guesstimate it's one of a few things. First, people are lying or not paying attention. Second guess is they arent truly ever in any kind of stop and go for more than 5 mins, which case I can see how it wouldnt happen. Third just occured to me, maybe a constant pressure vb builds a little more heat, but I cant see that being the difference.

Put it this way, if I'm moving, no matter how hot ambient is, I have trouble getting the fluid over like 130* without the fans on. It runs sub 100 locked on the highway. But I hit a wreck on the highway where I was stop and go for probably 25 mins, trans hit 225 several times in about 85* ambient. Anytime I hit stop and go it is physically exhausting constantly dropping in neutral and what not keeping temps sub200.
 
I run a 6.0 Ford trans cooler in the factory position and tow more than 10 k with no problems. I have -8 trans lines also . You have to do some work to the cross member the I/c sits on to make it work but no big deal. My trucks a little over 10k and 5th wheel is around 13k and my temps max around 180 or so . Mishimoto has a nice trans cooler out now if money’s no object .
 

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wwentzler said:
I can only guesstimate it's one of a few things. First, people are lying or not paying attention. Second guess is they arent truly ever in any kind of stop and go for more than 5 mins, which case I can see how it wouldnt happen. Third just occured to me, maybe a constant pressure vb builds a little more heat, but I cant see that being the difference.

Put it this way, if I'm moving, no matter how hot ambient is, I have trouble getting the fluid over like 130* without the fans on. It runs sub 100 locked on the highway. But I hit a wreck on the highway where I was stop and go for probably 25 mins, trans hit 225 several times in about 85* ambient. Anytime I hit stop and go it is physically exhausting constantly dropping in neutral and what not keeping temps sub200.
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So, dropping in neutral will lower temps too?

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I used to have the same stop and go heat up with the b&m super cooler and also the stock one after I deleted the heat exchanger. I threw all the expensive trans coolers w/ fans etc in the garbage and picked up the ford cooler on fb for 35$ , welded -8 bungs put it in place of the factory on the rad and my problems went away. In Dallas traffic with 100plus ambient I can leave it in drive for over an hour and never break 180 , with the others I’d be in neutral and limp mode . My gauge is in the pan .
 
spooled05 said:
I used to have the same stop and go heat up with the b&m super cooler and also the stock one after I deleted the heat exchanger. I threw all the expensive trans coolers w/ fans etc in the garbage and picked up the ford cooler on fb for 35$ , welded -8 bungs put it in place of the factory on the rad and my problems went away. In Dallas traffic with 100plus ambient I can leave it in drive for over an hour and never break 180 , with the others I’d be in neutral and limp mode . My gauge is in the pan .
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Which Ford cooler fits our trucks?

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It doesn’t technically fit , your gonna have to do some fab to fit it to the radiator. The one I used is a trans cooler off a 6.0 diesel ford
 
I have the biggest derale with fan under the bed along with a b&m(12x12)cooler up front in the oem location. I honestly have a hard time getting the trans past 140 in the summer and that's after giving her the beans for awhile. I pulled 12k last summer when it was 94 degrees out in some stop and go traffic and it never got over 190 in the pan, using a Isspro ev2 gauge. I am conscious about kicking it into neutral at stop lights if I'm sitting more than a few seconds.I also have a constant pressure vb with a left hand cut converter which is supposed to run a tad hotter from what Dave georend told me.
 
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