RacinDuallie
Black Sheep Racing
Not many will have the balls to say, I appreciate the level of detail that you have done. Please don't install any side pipes with built in steps.
Yet another 6.4 build in a Mega cab though
- Thread starter BlackasCoal
- Start date
BlackasCoal
New member
It’s got the anti theft, water in fuel and abs lights on but no codes or check engine light.
Anti theft pretty sure was just the tuner turning the skim off to make sure we got it running.
Water in fuel I don’t know might have just been overlooked on things needing turned off.
ABS I’ve been chasing wires with the service manual to make sure when I gutted the harnesses I didn’t switch a wire in a plug somewhere. Could also be from me welding a truss on the rear axle. Heat may have messed with the sensor. Though I do still have a speedo.
The map sensor also show 5psi of boost just sitting not running. Swapped sensors from a known good truck and the same. So not sure of that either.
Just a bunch of pain in the behind gremlins to chase down.
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BlackasCoal
New member
I appreciate that. I try to do the best I can with what I have and know, which isn’t too much. It’s not perfect but ten times better than the hack that did some of the work before me.
And I can’t stand steps of any kind so there won’t ever be ha
RacinDuallie
Black Sheep Racing
Looks nice and clean. I can dig the detail you have done and approve. :rockwoot:
Speedo will work off abs and/or trans output sensor. Just a though but the ABS module needs the VIN to be programed and matched to the ECM. The ECM you are running now may have a VIN mismatch and be causing your ABS. You did not post any ABS codes but your comment on changing ECM made me think of this. All the modules on these truck look for VIN to match for communication.
On the boost senor. You should be at 1 atmosphere or 14.7 psi give a few tenths with the engine idling. Check the 5V reference to the sensor. On the older trucks.... 06 to give an example. The 5V reference from the ECM is for MAP, Air Temp, Crank and Cam senor, and rail pressure. Make sure all the other sensors are good. You can also check the return voltage from the map sensor. Last but not least is to check your grounds. I have found many weird ground issues with these trucks over the years. I have fixed a few by going straight to ground and bypassing the ECM when needed.
BTW..... Nice clean build. Love the effort you have put in. It is all about the details!
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blackmega3500
New member
To prevent a snapped hold down bolt I'm assuming which is a complete pita!
Had one snap on me on #5 and it wasn't even to torque yet and had my buddy weld a nut on and done! Time well wasted!
BlackasCoal
New member
What he said^^^
I’ve broken a few rocker hold down bolts before. Ive had the stock bolts stretch easy and snap outta no where.
I’ve broken a few rocker hold down bolts before. Ive had the stock bolts stretch easy and snap outta no where.
blackmega3500
New member
It's some stupid torque like 40in lbs or lower, can't remember exactly. Let's just say they're about as fragile as the injector studs in my opinion.
BlackasCoal
New member
Thanks!
I’ll have to play around with the vin stuff. It’s very possible the previous owner could have had things from multiple trucks and somehow not have the same vin as the cab or something crazy.
I tested the supplies and grounds for the ecm when I was having problems with getting the 5.9 ecm to work and all were good. Even added grounds like you mentioned. I also bought a whole front clip harnesses and swapped all three and nothing changed. If I can’t get it figured out I’m trying to get to firepunk in the fall to have them put it on the dyno and fine tune and I’ll have to ask them to take a look while I’m there. The lights aren’t too much a bother as long as it isn’t hurting anything.
BlackasCoal
New member
I think my problem was I was using a bigger torque wrench where the torque for them was on the lower end for that wrench and it wasn’t enough to get it to click properly. Ever since I use a smaller one and it’s been good. Still a cheap insurance with the studs though
BlackasCoal
New member
I’m not sure the exact length for the injectors studs but the only ones I’ve seen are advertised for 5.9 injectors. Which I have in it.
blackmega3500
New member
Sorry, I was referring to the solenoid studs.
TheHammer
broke
44in lbs if memory serves me right vs the 11ft/lbs the studs are supposed to be.
Beautiful build. Thanks for sharing.
SixOhh
EPA unfriendly
I am with Racin dually, i can respect the amount of detail i see here.
i am the same way with my builds, they always end up being torn down way longer than i expected, but the end result is worth it.
i cant believe all these PPL are having fluid damper issues. I cant see why the dont get a little loctite on the bolts and walk away, then again i dont turn the RPM's some guys do.
are those pics from a smart phone or a DSLR? impressive.
I have carli all the way around on my truck and i am in love with it all over again! the full rear leafs changed everything!
Are you seeing a code for ABS? i have seen several customers trucks with ABS lights on after electrical work, or sitting for a long time and then the light will go off after a few rides. have you driven it yet?
i am the same way with my builds, they always end up being torn down way longer than i expected, but the end result is worth it.
i cant believe all these PPL are having fluid damper issues. I cant see why the dont get a little loctite on the bolts and walk away, then again i dont turn the RPM's some guys do.
are those pics from a smart phone or a DSLR? impressive.
I have carli all the way around on my truck and i am in love with it all over again! the full rear leafs changed everything!
Are you seeing a code for ABS? i have seen several customers trucks with ABS lights on after electrical work, or sitting for a long time and then the light will go off after a few rides. have you driven it yet?
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BlackasCoal
New member
Thanks! I just can’t see the reason why guys spend all this money and then just throw it together. Some pics are taken with a buddies iPhone with a certain setting. I still use an older phone because I don’t really care for the latest and greatest tech stuff. But his does take some good pics.
Rear leafs are a must for the the ride. I tell guys that all the time and they don’t wanna believe it but the leafs take out that bucking feeling and give it the Cadillac feel.
The abs doesn’t come up with any codes. It’s just on all the time. And every so often the airbag light will be on.
Other than those I’ve got most everything else figured out. Fought with it being super smokey and the map sensor reading wrong for awhile. Like a constant trail of smoke while driving so I parked the truck. It was too bad to drive around. Finally just bought another c-1/c-2 harness and swapped it out and kept all but the emissions sensors and runs prefect now. All because it was missing the iat/maf sensors.
Got about 1500 miles on it now and drove it out to Rudy’s and back, about 350 miles round trip, and didn’t use a drop of oil. All three oil filters so far looked perfect when open. Only issues now is chasing leaks. Steering box is leaking so I ordered a Redhead. Front timing cover builds up a tiny drip and can’t quite see where it’s coming from so I may take the IC and radiator out to find out for sure.
Then there’s the OD housing. It has a constant drip from one of the bolts on the bottom p/s. Was doing it before it got built too but neither the builder or myself noticed anything wrong with the case. I had it off last week and didn’t see anything crack wise. Made sure the holes were clean of fluid, took a file wrapped with some fine sand paper to it to make sure everything was flat, new gasket, used white seal & lock on the bolts and still leaks. Only thing I can think of is there’s a fine crack you can’t see with the naked eye and once everything gets tighten up it opens and leaks. I think it’s only when the truck is off though. When running I think the fluid level drops below that area. The fluid level hasn’t really moved at all. Only other thing I thought was to try some right stuff instead of the gasket but ended up just ordering a new OD housing and it just came in today.
Rear leafs are a must for the the ride. I tell guys that all the time and they don’t wanna believe it but the leafs take out that bucking feeling and give it the Cadillac feel.
The abs doesn’t come up with any codes. It’s just on all the time. And every so often the airbag light will be on.
Other than those I’ve got most everything else figured out. Fought with it being super smokey and the map sensor reading wrong for awhile. Like a constant trail of smoke while driving so I parked the truck. It was too bad to drive around. Finally just bought another c-1/c-2 harness and swapped it out and kept all but the emissions sensors and runs prefect now. All because it was missing the iat/maf sensors.
Got about 1500 miles on it now and drove it out to Rudy’s and back, about 350 miles round trip, and didn’t use a drop of oil. All three oil filters so far looked perfect when open. Only issues now is chasing leaks. Steering box is leaking so I ordered a Redhead. Front timing cover builds up a tiny drip and can’t quite see where it’s coming from so I may take the IC and radiator out to find out for sure.
Then there’s the OD housing. It has a constant drip from one of the bolts on the bottom p/s. Was doing it before it got built too but neither the builder or myself noticed anything wrong with the case. I had it off last week and didn’t see anything crack wise. Made sure the holes were clean of fluid, took a file wrapped with some fine sand paper to it to make sure everything was flat, new gasket, used white seal & lock on the bolts and still leaks. Only thing I can think of is there’s a fine crack you can’t see with the naked eye and once everything gets tighten up it opens and leaks. I think it’s only when the truck is off though. When running I think the fluid level drops below that area. The fluid level hasn’t really moved at all. Only other thing I thought was to try some right stuff instead of the gasket but ended up just ordering a new OD housing and it just came in today.
BlackasCoal
New member
I’ve got a handle on all the leaks. Swapped in a new OD housing and new seal where the rooster comb goes through the case. Haven’t have a drop since. Had a few of the timing case cover bolts loosen and leak. So took them all out, cleaned them and put some permatex white seal + lock on them.
Just made the 650 mile trip to Ohio, saw a buddy then made a stop at Firepunk to have them dyno it. More to make sure everything tuning wise was good because of all the back and forth there was with changing ecm’s and wiring/sensor issues I had. Made a highest of 1074 which is lower than I wanted but I’m more happy it’s running finally and making good numbers. Then it made another 600 mile trip to PA
Did have a electrical issue on both trips though. Every so often when I put up a window, turn on the lights or something that draws a good amount of power, everything starts surging. Lights, rail pressure, air dog. Only does it for a few minutes and it’s fine again. Just another thing to hunt down.
Not sure I’m happy with the cam either. Feeling a stock cam would be better for what I use the truck for.
Just made the 650 mile trip to Ohio, saw a buddy then made a stop at Firepunk to have them dyno it. More to make sure everything tuning wise was good because of all the back and forth there was with changing ecm’s and wiring/sensor issues I had. Made a highest of 1074 which is lower than I wanted but I’m more happy it’s running finally and making good numbers. Then it made another 600 mile trip to PA
Did have a electrical issue on both trips though. Every so often when I put up a window, turn on the lights or something that draws a good amount of power, everything starts surging. Lights, rail pressure, air dog. Only does it for a few minutes and it’s fine again. Just another thing to hunt down.
Not sure I’m happy with the cam either. Feeling a stock cam would be better for what I use the truck for.
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blackmega3500
New member
I’ve got a handle on all the leaks. Swapped in a new OD housing and new seal where the rooster comb goes through the case. Haven’t have a drop since. Had a few of the timing case cover bolts loosen and leak. So took them all out, cleaned them and put some permatex white seal + lock on them.
Just made the 650 mile trip to Ohio, saw a buddy then made a stop at Firepunk to have them dyno it. More to make sure everything tuning wise was good because of all the back and forth there was with changing ecm’s and wiring/sensor issues I had. Made a highest of 1074 which is lower than I wanted but I’m more happy it’s running finally and making good numbers. Then it made another 600 mile trip to PA
Did have a electrical issue on both trips though. Every so often when I put up a window, turn on the lights or something that draws a good amount of power, everything starts surging. Lights, rail pressure, air dog. Only does it for a few minutes and it’s fine again. Just another thing to hunt down.
Not sure I’m happy with the cam either. Feeling a stock cam would be better for what I use the truck for.
Is your AC on when the surging happens?
The fact you sustained over 1000hp for 1k rpm is stout and about as safe and reliable as things could be t for a fun daily. I'm no expert, but to me it looks like the cam did a great job flowing the air you have. You need more aggressive fueling/ tuning especially since the air is there.
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