Thread: Drag Racing 101
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:21 PM   #6
Michael
 
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Name: Michael
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A few things to add:
1) When approaching the staging beams, look down and to your left to see the two holes for the beams (if you are in the left lane, you will see the holes in the guardrail, if you are in the right lane you will either see the reflectors exposed or the holes in the cover over the reflectors), this will tell you when you are getting close and it's time to look up at the tree to focus on the pre-stage and stage lights.

2) Most tracks are using "Auto-Start" systems, where there is a timeout once one person has staged and the other has pre-staged. This timeout is usually set around 7 seconds. If you need time to get your chargers lit, do it before turning on either bulb, and make sure you take less than 7 seconds from turning on the pre-stage until turning on the stage bulb.

3) For consistency, try to stage the exact same every time. For most people this means staging as "shallow" as possible, which means just barely turning on the stage bulb. You will get used to the distance between turning on the pre-stage and stage lights, so after you turn on the pre-stage, roll in most of the way towards the stage beam quickly, then take several short "bumps" to go in the last portion to turn on the stage bulb. Once it turns on, quit "bumping"!

4) The general "strategy" for a bracket race is to cut as good of a light as you can (without red-lighting), then be the first to the finish line but win by as LITTLE as possible. This is referred to as "taking as little stripe as possible". The really good racers can hit the brakes and cut the stripe down to around 0.003 seconds consistently. I usually screw up and let the other guy around me when I try to cut it that close! If you do hit the brakes, try not to do it until after the 1000 foot mark, so you have a full run to the 1000 for reference data (more on that below).

5) Make up a log book, and log all the details of every run in a single spot, where it's easy to refer to. I do mine electronically on an Excel spreadsheet, then make a printout to take to the track with me. Take down all the numbers from your run, as well as notes on anything unusual about that run (tire spin, extra deep stage, etc). If possible also include atmospheric info (temp, humidity, barometric pressure).

6) Use the incremental times on your timeslip once you are in eliminations. If you followed Step #4 and hit the brakes a little, you can reference your 1000' time and other runs from your logbook to get an idea of what you would have run if you didn't hit the brakes. This can be invaluable when dialing the next round.

7) Get a practice tree and use it. I just saw an ad for the Altronics pocket tree (same one I use) for something like $54 after $20 rebate. Even if you're just using your thumb on the built-in button, you're still getting yourself used to the cadence of the lights coming down, and trying for consistency. Better yet is to buy or build a simulated brake pedal assembly with a switch on it, so you can practice your actual foot-eye timing as well.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
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