Stalnaker Racing Services

Sell those NV5600s and you would have the rest of your money my man...

zfaylor said:

Sell those NV5600s and you would have the rest of your money my man...

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I need some of 'em. lol

They have all been rebuilt by Travis Wagle in Ravenswood, WV. This fella is a trans genius. They all come with 8qts of syncromesh and a shifter. I will ship these anywhere in the lower 48 for $4800 no core. All cores had good cases to start with so no funky bearing sleeves etc...

It seems a shame to throw all this money at what could possibly be considered in todays world a 'Has Been'. I hate to talk about the mighty inline six like this but facts are facts. Packaging has always been a major concern in automotive design. I have a solution and would really like to be pumping $$ into the development of this solution instead of copying the best mouse trap out there.

Doing the the super stock pulling tractors and going V8 with modern valvetrain designs? D80's all ready to use?

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J-Pipes said:

Doing the the super stock pulling tractors and going V8 with modern valvetrain designs? D80's all ready to use?

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LOL, I will not reveal this "Hayseed Flash of Genius" until I am fully protected. lol
...if such a thing still exist???

Let me know what you want in an 80 and I will tear into one and check it out for ya.

On the 80, still have a lingering desire to convert my truck to dual wheel, a direct bolt in for a 2000 single wheel 80 3.55 gear is ideal, currently have drum breaks.

Could keep the inline 6, maybe just do a new, single or dual overhead cam cylinder head?
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Cc or dually?

Cc is the same length as a srw, he would need a dually rear unless he wanted to use spacers


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As long as it has the drums for running duals I wouldn't worry too much about it. We put a dually 80 rear in our pulling truck and with singles it looks exactly the same as the single wheel 70 to the naked eye.

Thanks for the knowledge.

Speaking of rear ends and our UCC bid, if you all had your choice and wanted to run one rear for all three competitions, what rear would it be and why??

WHY would you want to run ONE rear for all three competitions???

Lightweight but strong is best for the drag race and it will need shock mounts and some suspension. That rear can also be used on the dyno provided it is stuffed with gears that work well to load your combination without overspeeding your tires. Otherwise you may want to swap to a dyno rear axle if it is easier than changing gears in the pits...

Then for the pull you want something super strong and heavy with solid suspension and likely different gear ratios yet again for proper tire and pull speed down the track in your powerband. Again, probably better to have an option that will bolt in to give you what you need rather than twisting up something that "might" work!

My 2 cents...

Gearing is the biggest thing that comes to mind with running the same rear. Definitely nothing smaller than a D80 for the pulling competition. I think spending time on the strip and the pulling track is worth just as much to the competitor as building a perfect truck. Pulling isn't just put it to the floor and hold on. Drag racing isn't either obviously...

Thanks for the replies fellas.

As Chris stated, really no need to throw the pulling rear into the drag/dyno mix unless one of those SQHD's or whatever operates at a much higher efficiency level.

I just happen to know where there is a pretty good pulling set up setting out in the stacker trailer. Surely Craig wouldn't mind if I borrowed the rear end for a weekend. :1tooth:

The Rudy's Diesel truck was running a 9" or 9.5" ford.

I would say if you wanted to run a small rear like the Ford 9" or 9.5" you need to ground down cut tires for the pull and rely on super fast wheel doped similar to what the smoker tractors do to help take the load off the rear end.

I would use a 20-145 rear for the whole competition. One third member for the drag/dyno and swap it for a different one for the sled pull.

kjpcummins said:

I would use a 20-145 rear for the whole competition. One third member for the drag/dyno and swap it for a different one for the sled pull.

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I agree the bigger housing should be used during the sled pull portion. I have one installed in a pretty sweet pulling truck. Plans are to remove this rear and use it for the pulling portion along with the D60 front.

What I need mostly I guess for the drag portion is a rear that is very efficient and just strong enough to do the job. New weight is 4500lbs min on the drag portion. If I can raise enough money to buy the turbos and a few other larger $$ odds and ends, we will be making the power.

This is my first attempt at a 12 valve intake. This is my design and I had Jesse Shuman (Shumans Welding) tig the thing together. He said he will definitely spool gun the next one. Sorry about the fuzzy pics. My wife bought us a new underwater camera and I think it is set wrong for focusing????

Packaging, packaging, packaging. This is lighter and will outflow anything I have bought or seen out there on the market. I have no flow numbers only experience. No need for custom injection lines, etc... Now just need to figure out how to feed it from the front or possibly even underneath just behind the pump????

Looks good, I like how you tapered it. And uses stock lines, that's cool.

Seems like you should have done more radiusing to the mounting plate for the transition into the intake valves to me...

It's the underwater camera filter. On a serious note though Arch, if it doesn't work out for some reason, a company that rhymes with schmagler has a near identical aluminum intake available. There's a lot of work that's been put into yours, that's for sure

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Thanks fellas.

Chris is correct in what he is saying. We had a little miss communication with the fella that done the work. I explained how we needed plenum volume plus smooth flow and the plenum volume stuck. lol Ideally what I was after was matching the upper and lower walls to the top and bottom openings of the ports. What I got was lots of volume and lots of places to build high pressure areas (around sharp turns). This was our first, I promise we will do better.

I plan on cutting the extra material out between the ports. I was just a little excited to show ya what I have. After looking at the Indy offering and now the Red Line engine's port work and intake shelf removal, no care was taken to eliminate the communication between cylinders behind the plate. All in all, the runner style intake that was on the Red Line Engine basically made good spots to install the water injection.

The next one we build for the UCC Warhead will be custom tailored to Jame's port work.

a company that rhymes with schmagler has a near identical aluminum intake available. There's a lot of work that's been put into yours, that's for sure

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Lol, I hit their site and couldn't find their intake. I googled it and man alive, mine ain't no where near that pretty and I like how they front fed the intake. Jesse Shuman with Shuman's Welding did all the work. I had a plate laying around here I bought from a fellow member and it just seemed to fit really well. We had to use the bolt pattern from the Red Line Engine.