Truckers, lets see your rigs!

Gotcha, never really looked at the t600 or t660 I drove for awhile. 600 ended up on it's side in a ditch in Nebraska after I got hit head on by a Pete with a bull rack that fell asleep. climbed up and down the rear suspension of that one twice so I could go through the drivers window to grab stuff out of the truck but didn't look at how it was set up.

How do you like the air disks? Last year when I did king pins my axle failed the go gauge due to it being a little egged out. Shimmed it up tight to get by figuring I'd replace it next time around. Just scene I can get a complete disk axle from vanderhaags in Sioux falls for $750. And rear cut off with disks in the 2-3k range. I've been seriously considering switching mine over. Haven't heard anything bad about disks so far and from what I've heard they make dot inspections a breeze.
 
Could put a car hauler front axle under it too. I don't know too much about the kw 8 bag, I've driven two but never payed much attention. Can you move the mounts up like the early Pete low air? If you can just lower the back equalish to the front with a taller 5th wheel and set up an over inflate valve to get in and out of parking lots where your tanks will hit.

I wondered about a car hauler axle also.
 
It could already have it. A lot of KW’s have 5” drop axles and have blocks and long shackles to raise it back up. Lots of T660’s do this and I’m not sure why. Mine has the 5” drop which is 3” wider. Plus the disk brake hubs I added are another 1” wider so I can almost turn and check my own tail lights.

I bet at 318” he’s not going to have any issues with the rear. I had ordered a Horst kit with the AG springs for my steering but after waiting for at least 3+ months I said screw it. Apparently making a few brackets is too difficult for house of air. Could chew them out with a hand file in that length of time.
What is the difference in length between the long shackles and the short shackles?
What are the chances of an 03 having the 5” drop axle?
I’m not looking to go crazy lowering it, just don’t like how the W900’s tend to be SO tall in the front.
 
What is the difference in length between the long shackles and the short shackles?

What are the chances of an 03 having the 5” drop axle?

I’m not looking to go crazy lowering it, just don’t like how the W900’s tend to be SO tall in the front.

Here are the long ones. The short are easily 2+ inches shorter. That’s a 5”drop in the pic.
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Call a KW dealer with the VIN and they can tell you what axle it is.

Gotcha, never really looked at the t600 or t660 I drove for awhile. 600 ended up on it's side in a ditch in Nebraska after I got hit head on by a Pete with a bull rack that fell asleep. climbed up and down the rear suspension of that one twice so I could go through the drivers window to grab stuff out of the truck but didn't look at how it was set up.

How do you like the air disks? Last year when I did king pins my axle failed the go gauge due to it being a little egged out. Shimmed it up tight to get by figuring I'd replace it next time around. Just scene I can get a complete disk axle from vanderhaags in Sioux falls for $750. And rear cut off with disks in the 2-3k range. I've been seriously considering switching mine over. Haven't heard anything bad about disks so far and from what I've heard they make dot inspections a breeze.


Love them. Have had several in the shop with 400k+ on original pads. Nothing to adjust, nothing to grease. I got a front axle and a 2016 cutoff for $3200. Cutoff was junk, 2.64 Kevin Rutherford gears in Meritor axles. Front axle tube was bent and big hole in the power divider. Stole the brakes/hubs off of them, Sold the 5th wheel off of it for $1000 and the rest of the suspension for $1500. Sold my old hubs for $600 so I almost got them all for free.

Scale house told me that they have never put a truck out of service with air disk. The only inspection is to look in the caliper. If they can’t see the backing plate your good to go.
 
The only problem I've seen with the bendix disks we have were drivers not releasing the parking brakes driving through them. That and a recall for the caliper mounting bolts being under torqued.

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Anyone that buys a Prostar/Lonestar or any IH product needs their face set on fire and put out with an ice pick.

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And add to the fact Cummins felt the need to make you remove the damper to pull the head.
 
Not my first choice but a 389 with an MX has 16” between the firewall and the head. Other than the idiotic rear geartrain. Which one would you rather work on?
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Local shop has a Mack with Leiffi’s amazing Volvo engine with the state of the art rear gears. Nut came off idler gear and destroyed the air compressor gear. If this was a normal engine it wouldn’t be a big deal. But with rear gear the transmission had to come out and you get to work under the truck.
 
Not my first choice but a 389 with an MX has 16” between the firewall and the head. Other than the idiotic rear geartrain. Which one would you rather work on?
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Local shop has a Mack with Leiffi’s amazing Volvo engine with the state of the art rear gears. Nut came off idler gear and destroyed the air compressor gear. If this was a normal engine it wouldn’t be a big deal. But with rear gear the transmission had to come out and you get to work under the truck.

Space isnt an isdue on the stand
 

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Not all are slotted. It’s as random as the scissor gear.

The real question should be why do I have to pull the cam to pull the head.

Unless Cummins switched suppliers for the cover, I've never had one that wasn't. Also never had one that didn't have the scissor gear. (Sohc like the one you have pictured)
 
Local shop has a Mack with Leiffi’s amazing Volvo engine with the state of the art rear gears. Nut came off idler gear and destroyed the air compressor gear. If this was a normal engine it wouldn’t be a big deal. But with rear gear the transmission had to come out and you get to work under the truck.

Just remember that according to Leiffi, that wonderful rear gear train motor would be in a stupidly short cabover. That means after you get the trans out of the way you could sit on the 5th wheel while you work on it.
 
It's funny I had just told you about doing the cam on a 6.0 without completely removing the cab and now this conversation.

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It's funny I had just told you about doing the cam on a 6.0 without completely removing the cab and now this conversation.

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Buddy did an 871 without pulling the radiator but said it wasn’t worth it. Slid the cams forward and got the back bolts, then slid them back to get the front.

The covers on the common rails are slotted but the last 2 we did the nuts needed the impact. Had some the studs break off or spin in the cover. Again it’s idiotic.
 
It's funny I had just told you about doing the cam on a 6.0 without completely removing the cab and now this conversation.

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Right??!!
I’ve got a 6.4 in here today with a fuel leak on top of the K16. I’ve managed to get to the top of the pump within pulling the turbos, or the cab, but man what a job. I’d like to burn this thing about now....
Anybody that thinks a 6.0 is awful hasn’t owned, or worked on a 6.4.
 
FWIW, the ISX I did in August had no slots, scissor gear, and the dampener was friction welded in place. It is ridiculous to have to pull the cooling pack to remove the head.

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FWIW, the ISX I did in August had no slots, scissor gear, and the dampener was friction welded in place. It is ridiculous to have to pull the cooling pack to remove the head.

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If my only job was to design and build engines and this was the best I could come up with I would quit.
 
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