Persisting Hard Cold Start, Hazing and High Blow By

I found this handy Holset service manual and data sheet. I think my turbo's bearing radial clearance is too large (by feel).

http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/HX30_32_35_38_40_GW.pdf#page46

http://www.holset.co.uk/partsservice/service/HX_Service_Data_Sheet.pdf

TrailTamer said:

I was thinking to run the turbo drain into a bucket with a hose.

Click to expand...

Not a good idea.

Snedge said:

Not a good idea.

Click to expand...

Im trying to figure a good way to 'test' the turbo beside just throw a different turbo at it. How can I safely run it without turbo installed tho? It don't have much, if any, blow by immediately after start up.

Might as well upgrade the turbo to get into +500HP range lol :ft:

I think HE351 will be a good choice and a primary under it down the road.

Snedge said:

Remove the turbo and plug the oil supply hose to eliminate the charger.

Click to expand...

Whats to figure out. He just told you how to test that

Some updates;

Hard cold start, hazing & blow by persists. Other than these problems the truck performs just fine, even when towing at ~20-24k GCWR.

1) The cold start improved dramatically with the new starter installed and cycling the heater grid twice. Still not 100% solved, but still a TON better with a good, fast cranking starter.

2) There’s small missing in the first 2-3 seconds after the cold start up. Maybe some cylinders have low compression? (And cause hard cold start?)

3) The hazing still is ‘bad’. Blue and very noticeable. I do need to top off motor oil, especially when towing heavy.

4) The blow by is still seem very excessive. To give you an idea how much blow by there are; for example, the blow by from all 3 breathers seem to blow about same amount as my daily driver’s (03 Blazer) smoke (condensation) out of the tailpipe in winter (cold weather). Literally make it look like my truck is on fire lol.

I really think it’s piston rings aren’t sealing.

Tempting to just cut the engine crossmember to drop the oil pan while still in the truck and take pistons out (cylinder head removed) to re-ring, assuming cylinder walls aren’t either tapered or damaged too bad.

I've abridged your update post to save people some reading.

" My engine still needs a rebuild. I'm in denial, but coming around."

Sorry, had to. LOL

Yup sadly. I just don’t want to rebuild or replace it if I can but seem unlikely. I’ll drive it until it’s either dead or I find another short/long block to swap in. Lol

TrailTamer said:

Yup sadly. I just don’t want to rebuild or replace it if I can but seem unlikely. I’ll drive it until it’s either dead or I find another short/long block to swap in. Lol

Click to expand...

Just don't drive it until it's too dead. Respect the engine, they don't make them like that anymore. :Cheer:

TrailTamer said:

I really think it’s piston rings aren’t sealing.

Tempting to just cut the engine crossmember to drop the oil pan while still in the truck and take pistons out (cylinder head removed) to re-ring, assuming cylinder walls aren’t either tapered or damaged too bad.

Click to expand...

I spent a whole lot of time reringing and resealing my engine. Still the same blowby and hazing. I’m kicking myself in the butt and 99.9% my cylinders are out of round. If you’re going to take the time to rering, go ahead and completely rebuild.

I see two choices, pull the engine and rebuild it or get another long block to rebuild while still driving the truck then swap on your pump and accessories, rebuild or replace the turbo while your at it.

Highly possible the pistons are worn and need replaced so the only cost difference will be the machine work on the block if it needs bored.
It's cheaper to rebuild it right the first time than to do it twice.

Ever had an engine oil analysis done? If you do I predict silicon (dirt) and all the wear metal numbers are high.

Kinda pointless to send oil in for analysis at this point? Haha. I’ll run it into ground even though I’m fixing to do the clutch & turbo upgrades (goal +500HP to ground) and hope it’ll hold up for one more year. :ft:

Since you have the vented valve covers plug the factory tappet cover vent, that'll help with the oil leaking out, but in my case it didn't do much for the oil consumption.
Even though my engine had less than 300k miles on it when I got it, apparently it wasn't maintained very well and was just plain worn out.
Cylinder walls had some taper but the pistons and bearings were shot.

Bad part about increasing hp on a worn engine and running it into the ground is, it'll get there sooner and when it let's go you may not have anything to rebuild.

TrailTamer said:

Kinda pointless to send oil in for analysis at this point?

Click to expand...

No, not pointless. If you know why a low mileage engine is in such poor condition, my theory is substandard air filtration, it could save your next engine from an early death.

I ran a Donaldson BHAF for years on it. Not some kind of rice burner spectra or k&n air filter. A BHAF should filter air just as well as stock air cleaner with the panel style paper air filter. I might will start try the oil analysis thing if I either swap the long block or rebuild it.

My last resort attempt at saving the engine will be some kind of decarbon product to fill in cylinders to try free up rings. It burned hundreds of gallons of WMO (it paid off )

Good idea, I’ll plug the tapper cover breather to reduce the oil loss.

I’m more leaning toward to find either good short or long block to fix up on the side, to minimize the truck down time.

Your probably to far away, I've got the old 160 engine I replaced.
Cranks good, block will need bored and head milled flat.
It was using a qrt per 400 miles towing, I ran it until a plunger stuck in the pump and the head gasket was leaking, then replaced it with another engine I'd completely rebuilt, have a good reman hx35 I may let go of with the engine.
I'm in north central Ky.

TrailTamer said:

It burned hundreds of gallons of WMO (it paid off )

Click to expand...

So rather than induct dirty air you ran dirty fuel. At least there is an answer for the engine's early demise.

Open says me!!

DISTURBED said:

Open says me!!

Click to expand...

Thank you!

I have an update to make.

The blow by have gotten bad and eventually it start to have trouble idling, especially when the A/C is on. It was time to do something about it. Despite of blow by and weak idle, it still averaged 18-19 mpg on highway at 70 and still have power when I need it.

I pulled the head and quickly find the block to be condemned. Cyl#1 show evidence of foreign object by dents on top of piston. Cyl#2,3,4 and 5 have major ridges at top. Best of all, Cyl#5 have a cratered cylinder wall! *bdh*

So what are you going to do sleeve it?