[roachie]

Originally Posted by bsmith

Great read!roachie, i thought your stainless lines kept leaking?

Originally Posted by JakeDiesel

If doing the swap how dou tell what timing u would want, do u look at ur egts, or is it just what feels right to u. dont plan on doin a swap anytime soon just curious.
Thanks Jake

Originally Posted by BgBlDodge

Nice write up. Only thing I'd change is buying the stainless lines. Heard lots of stories from lots of folks about them cracking.

Originally Posted by bnold

I'd kill the stainless lines deal as well...
Oh and if tuned right, the daily drive and tow isn't an issue either... Much happier with DD and towing with my setup now, so much more predictable than with the VP.. IMO

Originally Posted by red96ram

how is the driving compared to a well tuned 12v? is it gonna feel any different than a good 12v?

About the injection lines:

Alot of the failures of the lines are from poor craftsmanship or improper instalation. The kits come with injector line clamps assembled in a fasion that you would think is acceptable. The truth is you need to reuse some of the clamps and stand from the VP. Be prepared to fight them on too.

Stainless is a better choice for a street truck over the mild steel. Vibration and corosion will take its toll on regular steel real quick.

Timing:

That depends on your setup, goals, and taste. If your wanting a low RPM towing setup, around 17. Most street performance trucks will like 19-21, remember bottom end power suffers as you increase the timing.

Street Manners/ Drivability:

Like I said this is personal preferance. A P=pump has fixed timing vs. the VP's dynamic timing. Dynamic meaning it adjusts the timing in relation to input from various sensors to give the most power possible.

With that said, a P-pump will not make its peak torque at 1600rpm and hold it like a VP. The P7100 will have a nice curve going up to the peak torque and back down after the peak. Timing will adjust where that is along with other mods on your truck.

I dont care what anyone says, the low end torque of a VP is the cat's meow for driving/ towing. Agian, thats just my opinion.

Tuned 12V vs. 24V conversion:

The short answer is you can throw more fuel at a coverted 24V than a 12V with reasonable egt's. This comes from the 24V head flowing the same CFM as a Stg2 ported 12V head (from piers chart). Turbos will light a little quicker, EGT's will be lower, and low end power will pick up some if you were comparing similar fueling.The real bennifit is swaping to an aftermarket cam while your doing the swap. That will help substatialy.

With a Helix 2 in my truck I ran lazer cut Delivery Valves with 7x14's (280ish hp injectors) and a Silver Bullet 66. With the AFC tuned properly it was relativly clean on the street. Exept at WOT.