24v head performance

TheSilverBullet

TheSilverBullet

All the correction factor
Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
1,598
Going to be building a head for my p pump 24v. Looking for advice on a street driven application. I’m thinking I’m going to lightly port match the exhaust side myself.

I’d also like to use exhaust valves on the intake. I’m reading you need to machine new seats in for this. Would the oversized seats be less prone to cracking?

Also I’d like to do bronze valve guides. Trying to get a price together and see if I want to do it myself and have a local machine shop help me or just pull the trigger on like the d and j stage 1 head.
 
What kind of power are you planning to make? And what is the planned turbo setup?
 
63sxe over S475
6x13 vco
Farrel 215 pump
Colt stg. 4 cam
Was originally shooting for 750. Loooking for 900
 
TheSilverBullet said:
63sxe over S475
6x13 vco
Farrel 215 pump
Colt stg. 4 cam
Was originally shooting for 750. Loooking for 900
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Intake valves on the exhaust or the other way around like the first post? Either way sounds like it would bottleneck.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
Intake valves on the exhaust or the other way around like the first post? Either way sounds like it would bottleneck.
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I was reading that somewhere thd intake had 35* seat and the exhaust had 45* seat so they’d run all exhaust valves. Just gotta do a lot of reading sounds like I’ll probably just be doing the posting myself.
 
TheSilverBullet said:
I was reading that somewhere thd intake had 35* seat and the exhaust had 45* seat so they’d run all exhaust valves. Just gotta do a lot of reading sounds like I’ll probably just be doing the posting myself.
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You can have whatever angle seat cut on the head and valves. You could back cut the valves too. Typically the more angles on the seat makes it last a lot less too.
 
TheSilverBullet said:
I was reading that somewhere thd intake had 35* seat and the exhaust had 45* seat so they’d run all exhaust valves. Just gotta do a lot of reading sounds like I’ll probably just be doing the posting myself.
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I was thinking 12v when I said the bottleneck comment forgot about the 4 valve head. Sorry.
 
Yeah we ran 48* on my first 12v head. I thought you could cut any angle you want maybe there was another reason I missed lol.
 
Personally I wouldnt do anything to the head. Realistically with those compounds you have very little to gain and a fair amount to lose.
 
wwentzler said:
Personally I wouldnt do anything to the head. Realistically with those compounds you have very little to gain and a fair amount to lose.
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I’ve been thinking that also. I tend to over do everything with these. I’m thinking just gasket match the exhaust side and a good valve job.
 
TheSilverBullet said:
I’ve been thinking that also. I tend to over do everything with these. I’m thinking just gasket match the exhaust side and a good valve job.
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Its your build, but i'm not even sure i would do that. You won't gain anything at all, but you'll lose response time, maybe by a totally unoticable amount, but a loss nonetheless.
 
If your wanting to do anything to the head a good valve job, bowl blend and smoothing out the exhaust works wonders. Also you way want a better primary charger for your 900 RWHP goal
 
Stock heads for stock trucks . Head flow matters and loss of Turbulence With bowl/or valve pocket work is the goal on a street head .. gasket matching isn't the only issue on a head ..
 
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wwentzler said:
Its your build, but i'm not even sure i would do that. You won't gain anything at all, but you'll lose response time, maybe by a totally unoticable amount, but a loss nonetheless.
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Lmfao.:hehe::hehe::bang:bang:bang
 
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