Gooseneck trailer features

Instead of triple duals why not triple singles with supersingle (load range g or higher) tires?
50% less tire, plenty of capacity for anything you need.
 
Highwayman said:
That^ is probably about the same for materials to build that beast of a trailer.
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My recommendation would be to add up cost of materials and manhours to fab that trailer and then compare that to buying one and using it as-is or cutting it up to meet your needs. I know Big Tex has a 40ft (31+9) hydraulic dove tail.
 
If I was buying or building a trailer right now I would want torque tube, hydraulic dove, electric over hydraulic disk brakes, hydraulic jacks, winch in the neck, and 12k tandem super singles.

I currently have a 40' (35+5) 24k gooseneck built in 1997 without torque tube. I will never own a trailer without a torque tube again. I can flex the trailer over a foot when it is hooked to the truck just by getting on the trailer corner and making one bounce.

I have seen the full tilt trailers also, they seem nice, but I would not want one to load vehicles or equipment on. If you were moving containers all the time it would be worth it, but not for vehicles and/or equipment.
 
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I would not want to be loading or unloading two pulling trucks on a wet, 40' full tilt trailer. I vote for that rig Jory posted.
 
bigstacks95 said:
Why not buy a semi and an old moving trailer and just be done? Then you can haul 2 pull trucks, support vehicle, and whatever tools you want and never have to think about weight issues.
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Because then I'm stuck paying license and insurance on a truck that would sit 90% of the year. Having a trailer sit outside really wouldn't bother me.

4x4dually said:
Mack truck and trailer - cars trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

Copied from Gary and put in this thread......This will be cheaper than your trailer alone AND you will roll in style. :D
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Have you guys driven cab over trucks? I'm only 6'1" and you couldn't pay me to fold up and drive one all summer long LOL

PSUCE said:
My recommendation would be to add up cost of materials and manhours to fab that trailer and then compare that to buying one and using it as-is or cutting it up to meet your needs. I know Big Tex has a 40ft (31+9) hydraulic dove tail.
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I had considered buying one and modifying it, still an option

06 DIESEL said:
If I was buying or building a trailer right now I would want torque tube, hydraulic dove, electric over hydraulic disk brakes, hydraulic jacks, winch in the neck, and 12k tandem super singles.
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I'm not a fan of the hydraulic dovetail trailers. It's a steep loading angle and then you're stuck with unusable deck space because you can't carry much weight on the dovetail while in transit.
 
Hull trailers makes a trailer that is hyd full tilt and/or dove.
Maybe they could provide a bare bones trailer you could modify.
Still not sure 3 axles is necessary.
What do these trucks&associated tools/parts weigh?
 
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Are you positive on the not being able to haul that much weight on the hydro doves tails?


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Consider looking into building a very low profile trailer, with small drive over wheel wells, and air ride so you can dump it and drop the tail. When I had figured out on a 26' trailer I could get the tail 12" off the ground with a straight deck. That made for a very tolerable hydraulic folding ramp with very little angle.
 
CTDYoungGun said:
I'm not a fan of the hydraulic dovetail trailers. It's a steep loading angle and then you're stuck with unusable deck space because you can't carry much weight on the dovetail while in transit.
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10K lbs on the tail isn't enough? It all depends on where you put weight on the front...

We have a 35' Corn Pro Custom built for us. Hydraulic tail, hydraulic jacks, 12K axles, and we finally got enough tire on it when we switched to 235/75R17.5 18 Ply tires.

If you don't think what you're building will be heavy, think again...ours weighs 11,800lbs EMPTY. You put 20-25K on it and you know it's there, but a 2016 GM Duramax handles it fine except in steep hills.

AS for the sleep loading angle of a hydraulic tail, yes, it is a bit steep...however, with the extra complexity of a full tilt deck, not to mention the weight, I would think there are better options.

What would I do for loading 2 trucks? Probably build a low pro dual tandem style deck, with a little longer tail than normal and a hydraulic tilt set of "ramps"...but I never minded driving a truck on a good set of ramps anyway.



BTW, we do have a sliding axle Landoll 435...it's nice, but there are nicer options now. Our next one will be like this...Landoll 900 Traveling Tail
IMHO,
Chris
 
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Better carry about 10 sets of wheel bearings and the tools to change them. Our experience with a couple of tri axle single wheel trailers is that they eat bearings. Cannot imagine dual tri axle.
 
the PJ states : Deck has 10,000 lbs lift capacity and 4,000 lbs hauling capacity from center point forward.

Its a 10ft tilt, so 4k at 5ft? How heavy is the back of a puller?

I really like your idea of lift/lower axles, you could adjust tounge weight or reduce drag/wear depending on load.
 
You really need someone to design the axle placement...60/40 is no where near right for even loading of the deck to have a 20-30% goose neck load.

So full tilt is extremely hard to do without sliding rear axle.
 
Back to features. I turned and then welded on a solid steel post that some sealed bearings fit onto. Then I've got a steel hoist that slides onto it, the winch mounts onto that, and I even made a par to grab the other side of the trailer for really heavy loads. I can pick up and set down engines, wet logs, ATVs, etc... It's probably my favorite feature on my trailer.
 
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