12v rebuild, what upgrades?

J

JRas

New member
Hey,

I have a 98 12v had an ARP head stud fail and blew my head gasket (~8 years)

I removed the head, had the head rebuilt / surfaced from a friend. 6 weeks later... I got it back from him. Put the new head on, 2 weeks later blew it again.

Decided to pull the engine, and have the block decked, and head o-ringed. While I'm at it have it freshened up.

I had a crack in cylinder 5 piston inside the bowl 215hp piston. Machinist is recommending Mahle 930036335, looks to be based off a NON-IC 1st gen Piston. Debated marine Pistons but didn't want to lose compression on a street truck; but I want a better bowl design. Good choice?

Disassembled everything and brought it down to a competent machinist / builder

My current setup is
215hp ppump (just sent out to get freshened up)
PDD budget 5x.012 injectors
AFC Live with max travel, debated deleting
4k GSK
cummins 60lb valve springs
he351 with 67mm exhaust upgrade ~45psi
new arp2000's again..kinda wishing i went 625 this time..probably overkill

upgrades:

Sent 215 ppump to Seth for rebuild, he recommended a complete overhaul and calibration.

Decided to do ARP rod bolts, was debating ARP mains.. but already 14mm stock. Is it worth spending the extra $250-275?

Balancing the rotating assembly

thinking an ATI damper

Bought a new aftermarket tappet cover (overkill fab) but may replace.. uses a cork gasket seems sketchy and it doesn't have a spot for blowby tube. Would it be bad to just run a 24v style at the front to a catch can only? I would go the dual breather cover but my valve covers are currently at powder coat, could always buy one and get it coated as well.

Bought billet oil squirters

deleting my vacuum pump and gonna run an electric vacuum pump

replacing freeze plugs with billet the common 3-4

fleece coolant bypass

Is there anything else you would recommend? power goals are kinda up in the air at the moment. he351 was rebuilt and that 67mm exhaust housing seems nice. It's a manual nv5600 with dual disc valair organic. I'd maybe go a 62 or 61-65-14 s300(even worth it?), but I want something with good driving manners, not laggy, quick spooling and fun. Feel like I would go compounds before a big single.

Why do guys run the adjustable timing gears, ease of changing the timing? does it make sense to run one if i'll probably just set and forget(thinking 16-18*). The billet timing covers look nice but what benefits do they have, being able to access the timing gear to make those adjustments?

Thanks for taking the time to read my rambles
89go8vx
 
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Non I/C piston, modified 370 marine injector, 035 delivery valve, modify the AFC correctly, and a 63mm or 64.5mm S300 SX-E with 68mm turbine and whichever turbine housing suits your needs. This will make 500-600hp depending on how aggressive you are with injection timing, no need for an adjustable gear.
 
Smokem said:
Non I/C piston, modified 370 marine injector, 035 delivery valve, modify the AFC correctly, and a 63mm or 64.5mm S300 SX-E with 68mm turbine and whichever turbine housing suits your needs. This will make 500-600hp depending on how aggressive you are with injection timing, no need for an adjustable gear.
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The 5x012 I have are not that old, but 145 SAC. I'll talk to PDD see if they think that will be a problem with pistons.

Seth was saying no to DV, said I'll have plenty of fuel

I'll look into those turbos for the future, Thank you

95cummins5.9 said:
Fluiddamper is a better choice over the ATI in my opinion .
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Why do you prefer the Fluiddamper?
 
Fluiddamper is one piece to start with. But at the power level you would be at, if the stock one is in decent shape, run it!
 
JRas said:
The 5x012 I have are not that old, but 145 SAC. I'll talk to PDD see if they think that will be a problem with pistons. Seth was saying no to DV, said I'll have plenty of fuel
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The non intercooled piston uses a 155° cone angle, and I would typically recommend using a nozzle that isn't Chinese. A larger delivery valve allows to use less rack travel which is beneficial in a 215hp pump as to stay out of the upper helix.
 
95cummins5.9 said:
Fluiddamper is a better choice over the ATI in my opinion .
Click to expand...

95cummins5.9 said:
Fluiddamper is one piece to start with. But at the power level you would be at, if the stock one is in decent shape, run it!
Click to expand...

I ran my stock one since I owned the truck but had heard of benefits with a manual trans, additionally wouldn't mind it feeling smoother throughout the rpm range. I'm running Poly engine and trans mounts as well

Seems like the Fluiddamper is definitely more popular and incorporated in newer cummins engines, fluid seems sketchy to me personally.

I would really like to run one of those fleece barring tools, only works for OEM and Fluiddamper.
 
Smokem said:
The non intercooled piston uses a 155° cone angle, and I would typically recommend using a nozzle that isn't Chinese. A larger delivery valve allows to use less rack travel which is beneficial in a 215hp pump as to stay out of the upper helix.
Click to expand...


I'll talk to Seth and see what he says about it. Pick his brain some

Is there a downside to running a 145 in a 155 bowl?

jasonc said:
Even on stock dodge truck small bowl piston, wider spray angle injectors have ran stronger.
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Performance wise but efficiency and hazing at idle though? I thought there was some reason PDD offered these in the "right" spray pattern.
 
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Main studs, any after market damper, and coolant bypass (especially with billet freeze plugs) are unnecessary at this level IMO. I'd save your money and pass on the adjustable gear and billet timing cover as well if you aren't going to be screwing with timing every other weekend.
 
zachu812 said:
Main studs, any after market damper, and coolant bypass (especially with billet freeze plugs) are unnecessary at this level IMO. I'd save your money and pass on the adjustable gear and billet timing cover as well if you aren't going to be screwing with timing every other weekend.
Click to expand...

This. 500hp in a 12 valve is so 1997.
 
zachu812 said:
Main studs, any after market damper, and coolant bypass (especially with billet freeze plugs) are unnecessary at this level IMO. I'd save your money and pass on the adjustable gear and billet timing cover as well if you aren't going to be screwing with timing every other weekend.
Click to expand...

Think I'm definitely overkill but I figured it's out so do stuff to increase reliability and longitivtiy.

Thank you for the input, what would you recommend?

I bought a dual valve cover recently so I'll have to send that to powdercoat. Was gonna run a baffled tappet cover but heard even those are not as good, and leak some.

zfaylor said:
This. 500hp in a 12 valve is so 1997.
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haha, I'm not racing my truck. This is my dd / work truck / offroad fun

different turbo may come and more power but it's nice having something that spools quick and offers drivability.

In the future I may pick up a dedicated work truck as well.
 
Definitely do a cam retainer. And tab the KDP. I’d say o-ring the block or head.i put a billet tapper cover on and plugged its vent tubes and have two of the dual valve cover breathers, so far so good.
 
I've been running 1st gen non inner cooled pistons in my Fummins tow rig for a few years now, doesn't see a lot of miles but stays hooked to a trailer 90% of the time.

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