Building a shop

For the inside... mezzanine or something? Crane?

That will be for the floor hoist between the 1st and 2nd floor of the living quarters we are building inside. Going to be small but efficient. The fiancé and I will need somewhere to live after the wedding. There will be top running bridge crane in the works, just not at the moment. More on that in future post.

Picked up my 16’ wind rated roll up door today.

Insulated and closed in the south door opening. Scratched our heads, figured out how to hang some rake trim and gutter. While making it all look half way decent and water tight. Dad strung up one of my T5 6 bulb fixtures with a chord for some decent temporary light.



Cleaned, drilled, and almost finished priming my beams before the rain started Saturday.

FWIW...those roll up doors blow goats. And what is the strapping across the top and walls that is laying loose?

What’s the issue with roll ups? We have several installed with not much issue to speak of. I’m unable to use overhead on my big opening due to future top running bridge crane. Roll up is only option.

That is anti sag strapping. It looks loose but is mounted “tout” to the purlins and girts. Being in a coastal county, the building must meet 130mph wind load for 3-5 seconds sustained. The strapping keeps the purlins from twisting under wind load. One continuous piece from wall, roof, to other wall. There is also angle braces from each rafter to the purlins. This keeps the rafters from racking under a wind load. The building must have all this extra support to pass wind storm inspection so I can properly insure it.

Joys of living on the coast.

I like my roll up in my home garage. Saves overhead space for sure. It just sucks because you cannot insulate very well with them.

Red Sleeper said:

What’s the issue with roll ups? We have several installed with not much issue to speak of. I’m unable to use overhead on my big opening due to future top running bridge crane. Roll up is only option.

That is anti sag strapping. It looks loose but is mounted “tout” to the purlins and girts. Being in a coastal county, the building must meet 130mph wind load for 3-5 seconds sustained. The strapping keeps the purlins from twisting under wind load. One continuous piece from wall, roof, to other wall. There is also angle braces from each rafter to the purlins. This keeps the rafters from racking under a wind load. The building must have all this extra support to pass wind storm inspection so I can properly insure it.

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Gotcha. Didn't think of perlin twist.

As far as the doors....they aren't insulated, they stick going up and down, they get holes knocked in them, and they are noisy as frack. They bang in the wind. Those are my complaints. I've never had one personally, but I've been around a few and have not been a fan. You could always vertical lift an insulated door over your trolly as long as your beams didnt' interfere with the track. A million ways to skin it.

I get it thought, those doors are cheaper....I just hate 'em.

zfaylor said:

I like my roll up in my home garage. Saves overhead space for sure. It just sucks because you cannot insulate very well with them.

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Overhead space was my #1 concern. #2 was insulation being it's a north facing door. Planning on a good heater to offset the few months of cold weather down here. Sweating in the summer is just fine with me.

We did a vertical lift. The top section only breaks over a tad...but we also have the luxury of a 20ft tall eve with a 10ft tall door.

Yeah, only 15’ eve height here. Should have at least gone 16’ now that I know. Lesson learned for the next one.

My 16x12 wind rated roll up is almost same price as my 8x10 wind rated overhead. Such crap I tell ya.

Is that cable bracing or solid rod on yours? All galvanize frame?

Red Sleeper said:

Yeah, only 15’ eve height here. Should have at least gone 16’ now that I know. Lesson learned for the next one.

My 16x12 wind rated roll up is almost same price as my 8x10 wind rated overhead. Such crap I tell ya.

Is that cable bracing or solid rod on yours? All galvanize frame?

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Braided cable bracing. All galvanized, yes. I adjusted the bracing to not go all the way to the floor. Not exactly per spec but IDGAF. LOL

Very nice looking building. I've got my wife interested in looking at a 30x50 or 30x60 with 1/2 living quarters and 1/2 shop. Storage over the living quarters. Want to keep it simple when we retire. Minimal housework and minimal yard work.

Stay tuned Ron, that’s exactly what is happening here. Few ideas I’ll recommend to you. Build the larger size of what you think will be sufficient. A 30x50 is really ~ 28’1’ x 48’ 10” once columns are in place with half load walls. Seems like common knowledge now, but easy to overlook at decision time.

Consider half load walls. This places the girts flush with the columns and not outside of the columns. If walls are standard, subtract another 8” from your overall size to allow for girts. Half load does increase the cost of a building, though worth the investment to me.

Insulate walls and roof. Just use 3” vinyl back. The 8” is not worth messing with on the roof and can be added at a later date if you do choose. Order extra double face tape with the insulation.

Decide on an eve height and add 12”. Mine are 15’ and should have gone 16’ at minimum. Of course, I placed and order on the building and two weeks later fiancé suggested we build living quarters inside to live in after the wedding and during home construction. Never in 100 years did I think she would want to live in a building, yet she suggested it. So I’m dealing with 15’ eves and 2 story living quarters. Not ideal, but only temporary.

There are economy, standard, and premium buildings. What makes a building premium? From my knowledge, full building insulation, the type of screws, 1” rope seal, half load walls, additional bracing, galvanized base angle, additional trim, gutters, downspout. *Pay close attention to the screws.*

Add an overhang off the end you will frequently enter and exit. Purlins can easily cantilever out 5’ -7’ past the end wall for added coverage. This is very inexpensive to do when the structure is being fabricated.

Slope your large door openings so the transition is flush from driveway into the shop. Having the lip there is fine, but not ideal for a fork lift, pallet jack, or wheel chair. Smooth transition would be ideal.

Add a couple windows for natural light. Don’t mess with skylights, they will leak rather soon. Wall lights at the top of a wall are nice. Though the material eventually turns yellow and needs replacement. Just add windows.

A painted roof is not worth the cost, galvalume roof panels will last 25+ years, depending on the climate. By then, the kids/grandkids can paint grandpa’s shop roof if needed.

All that ^^^^ and a bag of chips.

Don't skimp. We did and planned on living in ours for 10 yrs then building a house. It has been 12 and we are still not building a house.

Spray foam the rigid stuff in your stud walls in the living quarters part. Seal the absolute p1ss out of it. We have a mice highways and hear them drag racing at night. It's un-nerving. Use plywood or something on the outside of the stud walls before standing them up. Then foam seal them.

Just need to find a small piece of property near good fishing, and get one of these built. Down near Bull shoals would be nice.

Front door hung.

Sweet shop! I've been wanting a 40x50 for years ......also with a full bridge crane.
Looking forwards to seeing yours completed.

Duplicate.

Thanks. Lots of help from family, friends, and neighbors have kept this project moving forward.

Been working on framing some living quarter walls while the weather is crappy.

The first mechanic project on new concrete. Blew an oring on the injection pump. All fixed and running with a few upgrades to boot.