2000 Dodge V10 to 12V conversion swap

I am in the process of swapping a 95 12valve into a 2000 V10 truck. The donor truck was a 1995 3500 2WD NV4500 Dually. The truck its going into is a 2000 Dodge 3500 V10 NV4500. So a few of the big items are already simplified by not swapping transmissions. The truck is getting a color change from black to Viper red in the conversion process. The bed is off on its own frame and has already been POR15'ed underneath with a top coat of black anti rust paint. The frame of the truck will get the POR15 treatment as well. My goal is to complete the conversion and have all factory gauges work and everything like cruise control, ABS, and tach work as designed. I am staying with the V10 wiring harness. It has been disected and everything not needs has been disgarded. I am going to use the V10 PCM also. The 12v doesnt require anything, and I dont see any point in changing it. I will not be running a fuel heater or grid heater. I just dont think i need them. What I have done to the conversion so far has been--- I removed the fuel tank and installed the new FASS sump, -10AN to FASS 150. -8AN to Y block at P-pump and dual inlet at pump. At Y block i have a fuel pressure sensor for gauge in dash. -6AN for return. Removed the power and ground pins from fuel pupm and just the gauge works now. The alternator i was having problems with trying to figure out what i could do to activate the 12v alt with the V10 pcm. I finally took the connector to NAPA and found that a 24Valve alt plugs into the V10 connector and bolts into place on the 12v. The questions I have are... If i pull the pins on the V10 harness for the Crank sensor and put the 12v connector on the v10 harness to use a 12v crank sensor, will the tack work and alt charge? Or, do i need a V10 Crank sensor, and will it work on my balancer? Or, do i need a home made- custom made tone ring? If i do, where can i find one? Second, the coolant temp sensor in the rear of the head is huge and a 1 wire. I have the V10 CTS, but is there a adapter to put it in the big hole back there? Or is there a way to make the 12v CTS work with the V10 gauge? If I remember correctly the 24V CTS is in the Tstat housing? I dont really want to buy another housing though. Other than That Everything is going Smooth. Feel free to give input, and I will be posting pics up soon. I will also be putting a brand new F550 Dana Super 60 in the front of this beast also. :ft:

I searched and searched, and could not find what I was looking for on the tone ring for the V10. I called Destroked.com and they were not sure either, but gave me a # to Autoworld in Montana. He said it would need a 10 teeth tone ring, that i would have to put my crank sensor AND cam sensor on to make BCM, tach, and alt work. Any input on this?
Found through multiple days of searching on adapting the NPT fittings (I.E.-- Coolant temp sensor) to Metric. Buy 3/4 NPT plug and tap in 14x1.5mm. I would rather buy the fitting adapter but i cant find one. Anyone know where I can find one?
The next thing I have to tackle is the Fuel shutoff solenoid and I think that will be it. I found some good articles in the 24v P-Pump wiring search. If anyone can think of anything im forgeting please chime in. Thanks.

I may be able to make you a 3/4NPT plug with the M14x1.5 thread inside. I'd have to check and see if we have an M14x1.5 tap here.

We do have one. I could prolly make you one for 10 bucks with a free ride.

Ok, awesome! PayPal or MO or something? Thanks!

How's the progress of the tone ring coming? I'm in the middle of the same swap, also had a hard time finding info on the tone ring. Curious of the 10 tooth worked out, I'm in the middle of trying a 36 tooth from a 24v to see if it works.

Im trying to pick up a few more items first, and get the motor complete. I just bought some injectors and DV's today, and i am waiting for GOT-TORQUE to make some new billet tappet covers to get my engine complete to put in the truck. I hope to be buying the tone ring from Autoworld in Montana(406-727-8915). Its $250. It comes with the tone ring for crank sensor and single tab for cam sensor. It also has the brackets for sensors and spacer for tone ring. He said he could have one built in 3-4 days. I just called him yesterday. I will try to get a picture up here later.

I forgot all about the plug and never checked back in... you still need it? PM me if you do.

Ill have to check but all you need to do for the alternator is install an external voltage regulator from autozone it only takes 1 power wire and you connect it to the alt. plug and ground and it works. I will look in the garage for the part number.
Im getting a vp engine ready to install in a 2001 v10 truck but I have all of the wiring and pcm from my 2000 truck that is now p-pumped.
I was just looking in this section to make a checklist of what needs done.

NYCETRK said:

Ill have to check but all you need to do for the alternator is install an external voltage regulator from autozone it only takes 1 power wire and you connect it to the alt. plug and ground and it works. I will look in the garage for the part number.
Im getting a vp engine ready to install in a 2001 v10 truck but I have all of the wiring and pcm from my 2000 truck that is now p-pumped.
I was just looking in this section to make a checklist of what needs done.

Click to expand...

I just ended up and and bought a late model 24v alternator. It has the correct plug for the V10 harness. A brand new alt was only $100 from NAPA. I just didnt feel like messing with too much and i wanted it as factory as i could.

Only parts I had to change was the temp sensor, oil pressure sensor, depending on what type of sensor was on your motor, and I ran an external voltage regulator. For about 30 bucks it has a lifetime warranty. Didn't want to have a charging problem down the road. I talked to Autoworld as well. They are going to make a few kits. I'd say I'd make my own but don't have the town ring info and for the price it's not worth your time. Can't wait to get he kit and finish up this project!

I haven't made any progress on the "conversion" side, but progress nonetheless. I've almost got the entire frame POR15'ed.



Picked up a HT3B and got it and the HX40 painted.

Put new seals in the vacuum pump and bought a new P/S pump.

Put new ball sockets, balls, and accelerator shaft bushings in pump fuel linkage.


Put a fuel sump in tank.



Made a crappy bracket for my horns. I will make a better bracket before the horns go on the truck...

The fenders are ready for primer.



13 hours later the tailgate is FLAT!

The underneath of the bed is had POR15 on it now too. It's ready to be flipped over and prepped for paint.




A BIG shout out and thanks to CSnyder, Chris and Cory from Ram Boyz. Www.Ramboyz.com in Iowa. Chris sent me some much needed sensors! Thanks Chivers! KCCO!

Trucks looking damn good man. Keep up the good work.

Put a fuel sump in tank.
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That sump have an inner flange that goes inside the tank for the bolts to thread into im assuming? What kind of gasket is used? Looks like a hellman but see the fass etched into it. Looks good!

Thanks guys!
The sump had two pieces that you bolt together and two o-rings in it.

I got some parts in for the engine yesterday from GotTorque @ EATSOOT.com
The parts look awesome, and they didn't break the bank! Picked up a tappet cover, coolant bypass, and cam gear retainer. Now I can hopefully get the engine together in the truck here soon. I really want to buy a billet front cover and adjustable ppump gear. But funds are getting short.