Coolant out of blowby tube

Couple of questions. When I set the timing pin in the oump and if my motor is a tdc I will be at stock timing? I have a 97 motor and a 180hp pump. Stock timing on the tag is 14 degrees.

Next question is, IF I find a crack in the block I've found a 94 motor. My thoughts would be to put my head and pump on that motor. If I pit a 180hp pump on a 160hp motor and the motor is at tdc and the pump is pined, am I still at 14 degrees timing. Wondering this because, I have thought the 14 degrees timing is the way the pump is set up. Or am I lost and confused lol. I hope the question makes sense. Also are there other differences in the bottom end of the motor between the two years.
 
Timing pin is per the pump spec off the original motor, if your 180 was 14* then it'll still be 14* assuming the denotations on the front cover were correct.
 
Yep, TDC the engine, and install the pump pin timed, and you'll be 14*.
Use the balancer as reference from there if you want to advance it any.
 
Got behind the tappet cover and everything look good. Drained the oil and pressurized the system start to get little spurts of coolant out of the oil drain hole. Looking like a cylinder wall crack.
 
Ive found a 94 parts pickup with an auto. Got it bought for a pretty good price. Motor is complete except for the fuel pump. My thoughts are to pull the motor and use the bottem end. Put my head on it (being it has been recently gone though) and seal up any leaks. While the motors out put in a better torque converter and valve body for the trans. Thoughts suggestions i need them. Kind of a newbie.

One question (probably will have a bunch more) on the ac condensor do you unhook the lines up at the front and then recharge the system after install? Thanks for the help.
 
I've had the radiator and intercooler out a few times on mine. I've been able to carefully swing the condenser forward like a hinged gate without losing AC. When I pulled the engine I just unbolted the compressor and laid it on the frame.
 

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Buy some plastic quick disconnects. They slide right in and release the spring, right on those bulb looking things on the lines going through radiator support. Reassemble with new orings and some pag oil on the new orings.:rockwoot:
 
Thanks guys.

Plans for the truck when i get it back together is to be around 400hp. For the trans I want to put a dpc single disk and valve body in. With the 4:10 gears hopefully it turns out to be a nice little tow rig and run around truck. I haven't done a ton of research as to turbos yet. Would be open to suggestions. Kind of thinking a modified hx35, or a drop in aftermarket set up. Had someone tell me, with the 4:10s and proper tuning I should be able to spool a 62mm easly. Not sure how that would work for towing though.
 
Well go the motor out this evening. Turbo got sent off to Zach at North American Turbo. Hoping to pickup the other parts pickup end of the week first part of next. Weather needs to clear up first so they can it it dug out.

I dont use tapitalk app is there another way to post pictures.
 
regcanfan said:
Weather needs to clear up first so they can it it dug out.
Click to expand...
Good luck on that.
They're calling for 6" to 8" here, in my area of NE. [SEE ATTACHED PIC :D]

I can't even get trucks/vehicles in my shop, got so much snow and nothing moves.

regcanfan said:
I dont use tapitalk app is there another way to post pictures.
Click to expand...
If you hit "reply", instead of using quick reply, scroll down and you'll see where you can add attachments.
Kind of a PITA. especially on a phone, but I manage. :D

Mark.
 

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I'll see if this works. Added a couple pictures
 

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Started taking the motor apart and found that 5 and 6 pistons have small cracks.
 

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May be a result of antifreeze getting in those cylinders. Found out today that antifreeze will burn extremely hot and cause those cracks.
 
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