12v Cummins blocks

DieselMonster

DieselMonster

New member
Looking for information in blocks for building 6-800 hp reliable, I keep getting told that there are 3 blocks, light duty like 1st Gen, 2nd gen blocks and then a tractor block...
The tractor block is what I keep being told I need to get or a failure is likely ???

Anyone got numbers for good blocks?

I'll get some pics of the one I have, it's got fried killed #4 melted it pretty badly.

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The tractor block, or structural block, is not something you'd want for a pickup truck. Maybe you are getting confused between tractor, and the international casting?
To answer your base question. Any block from 89 through 02 will hold the power level you're seeking.
??? Hope that helps you.
 
As everyone else said, that that power level even with at 53 block you should be OK. That being said, beating on them can break anything that is supposed to be reliable.
 
If you break a stock 12 valve below 800hp there was already something wrong with it or you did something wrong to it.
 
I have 5 12v engines standard bore at 1100 plus hp .. keeping the bore size Near standard seems to be key ..
 
Last edited:
bigstacks95 said:
I mean if he doesnt put a tab over the dowel pin it could fail at 160hp. Or less if it has a clogged air filter as well. LOL
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Right. Haha.

My point is, block failures are rare even at high power levels. It's hardly ever the blocks fault.
High cylinder pressure will crack cylinders even at lower power levels, and rotating mass breaks main bolts at high RPM.

If we are bound by numbers, I'm pretty sure that the blocks will split around 1500 HP, and stock main bolts say fukk you over 5000 rpm.
 
At this point I'm searching for the right information on a build I'd like to do.

Single cab 2wd long box...

Thinking 6-800 should be an absolute blast.

Also you're already answering some of my questions about high RPM.

Another question is at what rpm should I replaced stock rod bolts ?

Will the stock type harmonic balancer hold a 4K rpm engine together or should I use something else ?

At what power level should I consider a main girdle ?

I super appreciate all your input y'all... Much appreciated

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DieselMonster said:
At this point I'm searching for the right information on a build I'd like to do.

Single cab 2wd long box...

Thinking 6-800 should be an absolute blast.

Also you're already answering some of my questions about high RPM.

Another question is at what rpm should I replaced stock rod bolts ?

Will the stock type harmonic balancer hold a 4K rpm engine together or should I use something else ?

At what power level should I consider a main girdle ?

I super appreciate all your input y'all... Much appreciated
Click to expand...

4000 rpm is not an issue. If you're building, use a wide bowl piston, new rod and main bolts, and add the fuel and air needed. Done.
 
DieselMonster said:
At this point I'm searching for the right information on a build I'd like to do.

Single cab 2wd long box...

Thinking 6-800 should be an absolute blast.

Also you're already answering some of my questions about high RPM.

Another question is at what rpm should I replaced stock rod bolts ?

Will the stock type harmonic balancer hold a 4K rpm engine together or should I use something else ?

At what power level should I consider a main girdle ?

I super appreciate all your input y'all... Much appreciated

Sent from my moto e5 supra using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

There is no Specific Point for any of these things. It all comes down to the setup used. Really all stock internals + Fire Rings, Titanium keepers, valve springs and head studs should hold what you are asking without issue... to an extent. A Fluid style damnper is a good Improvement at any point.
 
Mudn_1 said:
There is no Specific Point for any of these things. It all comes down to the setup used. Really all stock internals + Fire Rings, Titanium keepers, valve springs and head studs should hold what you are asking without issue... to an extent. A Fluid style damnper is a good Improvement at any point.
Click to expand...
Are fire rings necessary? Was thinking o ring cylinder head. ? At what power is one better than the other?

Also I currently have my IP timing at 15.5° I have been wondering if I should bump that and if so what should I expect for power... Already doesn't really light up till 2k 1700 stall converter so it's decent now.

On that note, 887 pump w/3200 springs... 4ks would be great but my concern is simple thing like reliability and some mpg.

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Just go for fire rings right out of the gate and you'll never have to touch it again. More timing will generally net more power but depending on the setup it might not be worth what you give up down low. Try a few things and see what you like.
 
I had zero issues with an oringed head in a 750ish setup. I know there used to be some concern over the longevity of fire rings in a street application. Most of the concern around the "cast" fire ring cracking over repeated heat cycles.
 
Where would I buy fire rings ?
What machining needs to be done ? And or can I do this my self ?
Is there a special head gasket needed to be used with fire rings ?

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Yes fire rings require a modified gasket, they cut out the stock "fire ring" of the head gasket.

I'd recommend just have your head O-ringed and use a stock Cummins gasket.
 
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