hrvp finally dead pedaled

2 things..the map sensor showing overboost will limp mode the truck...not that bad but derate the power??

where can I ge an ecm for the truck...can I just get a used one for an 02 auto or does it need to be programmed or some other dumb ****. theyre like 1000$ so if I buy one and it don't fix it im really not gonna be happy

how bout the cam sensor?

prett hard miss at 1500-1600 rpm
 
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Map overboost will derate power.

01-02 ecms are interchangeable. Earlier ecms can be flashed to the correct software.
 
jasonc said:
Ha! Never understood the love for those quirky sob's. I guess they'd be alright as long as you carry a spare pump and a couple lift pumps with you when you travel out of town.
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I've never had problems out of my two. They can be quirky yes... I just don't have the love for ppumps like every other swinging d1ck.

I'd be tempted to start looking at the ecm and crank sensor.
 
ok well I changed the map sensor and got the same results. high voltage fault. too high too long..238 I think it was.
took the comp off..didn't make any diff. I have a cam sensor but not crank sensor,,that looks like a real pita to get out..wtf

also this...there is def a ticking buzzing noise coming from under the valve cover. Idk how this could have anything to do with the codes originally . I had em all wrote down but I have no idea where that paper went dammit. it is a very rapid ticking and it gets louder when it is decelerating from reving it up...
tomorrow its under the cover.

wtf is causing the high voltage map sensor code. it will not clear, soon as the key comes on its there. the smarty or unhooking the batts wont make it go away.

truck will not smoke at all...will not make 10 lbs of boost...does not go over about 1000 egt...wont do 70 mph on the floor.

ill get with mark if I need a vp core if they wont take the one I bought back..my original isn't bad..the hrvp I had is still good. ill swap em again to be sure but I know it is. im not gonna send em either one if theyre good. the hrvp is worth a ton and the other one is brand new...even if I get a 200 core im better off

as for the ecm I can get one for 750$ lifetime warranty...best deal I could find....there aren't new ones anymore. theyre like vp's..rebuilt with whats left from nos
 
BRE said:
Sounds to me like you have an ecm problem.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I would agree.

Gary you mentioned that you drove it about 50 miles before it started acting up. When the ecm's fail they will start out working fine until they get hot. You can try unbolting the ecm from the side of the block, and just hook up a ground wire to it. If it drives farther before it fails, then you found your problem.

The buzzing is a puzzle. Not much to buzz under the valve cover of a vp truck. Are you sure it's not the grid heater relays?

Paul
 
no those are on the fender of the the drivers side. either one of the hold down bolts came loose..rocker arm or lifter or maybe an injector. hate so say that even cause theyre a month old but they were the last thing I changed.

I didn't follow the advice of my dad who told me the last thing you f'd with is most likely the thing that's f'n you now...words of wisdom I tell ya.
theres a long story bout building a race motor and almost retearing it down due to a bad brand new spark plug bad outta the box

I am almost convinced its the ecm as well...done alotta reading and the one of the things throws the high voltage map sensor code is a bad ecm. it wont even clear. I cannot get it off with the batts off or the smarty clearing it. that and the companion jtec code are the 2 I get so....
another 750 bucks tho...dammit...

I hope they'll take the pump back. aint got 100 mi on it.otherwise I gotta buy a core
 
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Mark may have an ecm that is fully functional for a fraction of the price of a reman unit. I have bought a few from him over the years. He also may have a fully functional vp44 pump for a fraction of the price of a reman. But I agree, sounds like ECM to me also. Shooting in the dark here, but buzzing under the valve cover could be the alternator? Or as Paul pointed out, grid heater relays. Waste gate rusted shut? Just going from the video you posted, I would say you have an ecm going bad. I don't know what would cause the wait to start light to come on while you are driving at the same time you have a misfire, other than ecm.
 
yea that wasn't my video but it almost duplicated exactly what mine was doing.
I wont be needing another vp..looks like ive got 2 good ones now!

possibly the alternator..but it makes the noise the worst when its slowing down after a fre rev kinda thing...becomes much more pronounced...
 
Try the long screwdriver trick and use it to listen for the noise at different locations. It will be way more pronounced with screwdriver in your ear.
 
You could place it on each injector line at the head and see if any one makes a different noise than the others, if you think it's an injector.
 
I just went and read this whole topic.
It all seemed to start right after the injectors were swapped.

Can you guess what I would try next?

Mark.
 
Have you gotten a voltmeter out to check the signal wire or the 5v reference to the MAP sensor or just want to keep swapping out parts?
 
Watched the video on page 2 and wondered if the Wait To Start light is flashing at any time on yours?

For the guy's truck in the vid, I would have said ecm power feed cutting in and out (chafed/broken wire), or a processor dying in the ECM.
Worn ignition switches also do some goofy things, too.

Mark.
 
the inj were good for a month..been thru the whole apps checkout thing and actually tried a spare..same thing.

I know...should've went for the valve cover first but it had all the symptoms and codes of the dead vp....in my gut says ive got a lifter or inj problem
 
so I got no feedback out of the map sensor....the green signal wire doesn't have anything going back. 5 volts in. checked the ground by hooking the meter neg to the plug and the meter pos to the batt and it teted good so the wiring is ok. with no feedback to the ecm on the signal wire im going to get a new map sensor today and try it. I tried 2 but both were used and not a known good part

dam this ****s getting old.
 
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