Refined list of 6.7 parts.

Picked up a couple of more 6.7 long blocks.

1 with nice bores, along with another that is rusty in the bores and would be an excellent D.P. candidate.
I also have 5 or 6 6.7 heads in varying conditions, some undamaged, some with cracked intakes.

Some other 6.7 stuff I have kicking around and prices:

Core turbo from a 2010, has actuator, $275 SHIPPED.

Couple of sets of injectors for 2007-2012 6.7, $375/set SHIPPED.

Feed tubes for 6.7, $60/set SHIPPED.

Complete valve cover set-up for 2007-2009 (DODGE), includes rocker box, gasket/harness & upper cover, $175.

ECM from a 2009 2500 with a 6.7 automatic, part number 5258003, $400 SHIPPED.

C1-C2 wiring harness from above, $225 SHIPPED.

Have other odds and ends from pieced out 6.7s.
Please inquire here, via PM, or Call/Text 402-780-5127.
 
Last edited:
I recently bought a 6.7 engine 2nd hand from member on here who bought it from Mark Nixon a while back. The engine was supposed to have 200k miles on it, and Mark pulled the head, stated the crosshatching was still visible, and reassembled the head with a new gasket. The engine sat for at least a year in this guys shop before I bought it.

After receiving it I was surprised that there was zero rust/scale in the water jaskets even though it was exposed, and after tear down the cylinders were like new and bearings looked great still. I had a quick rebuild done because I was going to switch it to the industrial pistons anyway and the machine shop said the block took a touch hone, crank polished out perfect, rods were in great shape. The head got a valve job though he said it was not really needed at this time because the seats and guides were in great shape, and no cracks in the head.

Just wanted to throw a quick review in here even though I didn't buy it directly from Mark, he is honest when he sells stuff and won't BS about its condition.
 
Same here. I just purchased a 6.7 block from Mark a couple of weeks ago. He said it was a clean, standard bore block... And it sure is. Factory cross hatching clearly visible, no ridges at the tops of the cylinders, and no scars.
I'd buy from Mark again in a heartbeat. And I likely will again here in the spring.
 
I have one here that's NOT burnt, need to pull the head to see why it was yanked out.
It spins freely, but there is always a reason.

If it's a good bore, $2000 as a longblock, no fuel, turbo or injectors.

Mark.
 
Mark Nixon said:
I have one here that's NOT burnt, need to pull the head to see why it was yanked out.
It spins freely, but there is always a reason.

If it's a good bore, $2000 as a longblock, no fuel, turbo or injectors.

Mark.
Click to expand...



If it’s good would you split it up? I’m thinking I’m going to need a block and crank in the near future but I’m not 100% sure yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
txag09 said:
Ok, guess I skipped over that post after reading post #101.
Click to expand...
Dangit, I got confused, here. :)

I consider any injectors or turbos as cores (unless I state otherwise), ergo they are sold AS-IS.

I know for a fact that the turbo is a core, as it was purchased from a yard's core bin.
It's tight and spins freely, the actuator hasn't been removed, but knowing the mortality on those turbos, given how I acquired it, I am certain it has a problem.

Mark.
 
Mark Nixon said:
Dangit, I got confused, here. :)

I consider any injectors or turbos as cores (unless I state otherwise), ergo they are sold AS-IS.

I know for a fact that the turbo is a core, as it was purchased from a yard's core bin.
It's tight and spins freely, the actuator hasn't been removed, but knowing the mortality on those turbos, given how I acquired it, I am certain it has a problem.

Mark.
Click to expand...
Ok, thanks for the honesty. I will have to keep an eye out on your future post.
 
Mark Nixon said:
I have one here that's NOT burnt, need to pull the head to see why it was yanked out.
It spins freely, but there is always a reason.

If it's a good bore, $2000 as a longblock, no fuel, turbo or injectors.

Mark.
Click to expand...

This one looks to have been overheated, it has as bad of bores as I have ever seen in a 6.7, but the crank seems fine.
On the other side of the coin, I pulled a head off a moderately burned one and it has just a touch of rust on 2 bores, but looks like it will hone up fine.

Goes to show that just because it looks nice on the outside, that doesn't mean it is on the inside.

Mark.
 
_1303901253.jpg
Mark!

Sir, I need to know if you have what I'm going to refer and "the lid to that black thing" next to the brake fluid reservoir? 07.5 is the year.
 
Hey Mark, if you come up with any clean 5.9 (common rail) cranks give me a holler... I'm considering doing a short block build with this block I've got sitting here. Got some interest here local for a standard bore short block.
 
Headed to California and I have a core short block that needs bored, with a good head on the truck.
Has a pan, timing case and oil cooler on it.
Was bringing it out for a member on here and he's not answering texts or phone calls.

It's fair game for anyone who's interested.

$1800.

Call or text me at 402-780-5127
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top